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Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by Spurlock, Aug 27, 2016.
SWEET! Thanks Kurt! Thanks for not making my luck all bad this week!
If you (or anyone else) meets my good condition kmph dial that your mph dial will replace, let me know.
I'm very happy to pay forward Kurt's good deed.
Regarding my bad luck side of things, I'm still figuring out how best way to extract that bolt I sheared off when I was all giddy about my pretty Ikon shocks--started a thread on it in fact:
In between regularly and politely being told what a fool I was, torque wrench in hand, I'm getting a good chunk of excellent advice, and I've got extraction tools on the way via post. (I'm not messing with it until I have the best tools for the job and lots of critical thinking on hand to fix what I screwed up the first go-round when my critical thinking was apparently sheltered in place in some far off undisclosed location).
My new mantra: RTFM, but UYCS!
That's quite a thread you started there! Bet you are wishing there was a way to lock it about now. Mostly good advice there, especially in post #6 about the optical illusion. That's where your jig will come in handy. One caution I would add is do not start with a very tiny drill since when using a hand held drill motor there is always some side force and a 1/16" bit is easy to break off. Try maybe a 7/64" to start, and only drill 1/4" deep. Then follow with a larger bit to go full depth. To find out the largest drill size you can use without damaging the threads in the frame (assuming perfect centering), slide test drills into a nut. For a 6mm nut that will be a 3/16" bit with slight clearance, or a #7 bit which is slightly larger and has no clearance in the female threads.
You should have no problem, chances are the broken segment will back right out using the left hand drills.
Brilliant. Thanks Bill!
I probably should have just asked here, but I have gotten quite the education in easy outs. This seems to be the design to buy:
Mine from Snap-on is on the way.
I am thinking of using a block of plexiglass for my jig since it'll be more rigid than 2x2 stock and maybe translucent enough to be able to at least see something, however foggy. I am thinking the plexiglass jig will provide sufficient support for a very thin pilot drill bit to prevent the bit bending and breaking.
I may just start a very very shallow hole in the face of the sheared off bolt using the thinnest bit I've got, the same one I'll use to put the pilot hole in the jig, just to create a deep enough divot to prevent the biggest usable left-hand drill from walking across the uneven face of the sheared bolt.
Then drill with the LH bit, hoping it spins out the bolt all on its own, but if not then moderate pressure on the the extractor.
Don't break the extractor in the bolt!
If moderate pressure using the extractor fails, I'm thinking all that remains is dentistry: drilling, grinding, picking out bits of threads, flushing, then retapping the cavity. But hoping not that.
I wonder if all the tension and stress of over-torqueing was distributed the entire depth of the threads or was concentrated on the head of the bolt so that the bulk of the tension/stress dissapated when the head sheared off? Several knowledgeable folks seem to think that's the case, so maybe the Loctite is the main remaining force that'll have to break free?
Sheared bolts is a downside of Loctite I'd never considered, but then I don't plan to shear the head off a bolt ever again.
None of us ever really plans to do it, and yet every season, there we are.
Yes generally when a bolt head breaks off the entire remaining threaded part is loose except for maybe one distorted thread right at the break, but that's without Loctite.
Plexiglass is tricky to drill. If you can grab a hunk of Delrin it will machine much more accurately IMO.
Thanks again! Delrin. On it!
I have plenty if you can't find locally.
I've read that the first two or three threads on a bolt or screw take most of the load, and distort slightly. This is borne out by the observation that, on old British whirring masses of inefficiency, cover screw threaded holes are always a freep proud of the surrounding mating surface. This can lead to a nasty self- destructive cycle of LEAK, WEEP, TIGHTEN MORE, MORE LEAK ----------and so on, unto all Eternity. On old stuff, which is my particular field of misapplied endeavour it is wise to lay a fine file on such areas to bring up then remove the witness mark and/ or use a countersink rose lightly on the proud threads. A little heat and a product like penetrating oil afterwards may help you.
$150. Just now ended up on my doorstep this afternoon.
Looks like I'm restoring two GBs now.
Did you get that frame out of Sac? Fire damaged one.
The short answer is 'no,' but there is a bit of a tale to tell if anyone wants to hear it
I actually had been eyeing that fire-damaged frame for the next time I was even remotely near Placerville. Figured I could visit the guy, see if there was actual structural damage or just burnt paint, and if the frame just needed paint, offer less than the $375 asking price and drive off with it saving the $165 shipping too.
Thought maybe next month on the relocation drive up to Portland from San Diego that's what I'd do.
But a friend (thanks friend!) tipped me off to parts popping up cheap on Ebay out of Connecticut.
It was kind of crazy. I'm not sure this Connecticut seller knew what he had. The guy was listing parts like a right-side GB engine cover going for over $300 from other sellers:
I bought that.
And a lot of other parts in decent shape for $9.99 too.
The parts would pop up as the seller took his time stripping the bike over a few weeks, and none of the parts had "buy it now" prices, so I just looked for parts no one else wanted to bid on, and as the clock ran out after 5 days or so, if there were no bids, I put down my $9.99 and got the part.
A few parts I wanted to buy did get bid up--I ignored those--but some others did not, and so for $9.99 each I got the clip-ons, the kickstart lever, and swing arm.
Suddenly one early morniing I was awake and couldn't sleep, so glanced at Ebay on my phone on the table next to me and there was the frame for $150 plus $200 shipping, and not up for bid like the other parts, but listed as "buy it now" for some reason. A minute later PayPal was sending the seller my payment.
Then came the pair of forks for $125, so likewise I bought those too.
While forks come up for sale cheap on Yahoo! Japan Auctions all the time, they cannot ship (due to the fork oil I think?), and frames are cheap to buy in Japan, too (I've seen one for a dollar), but shipping a frame from Japan to the USA is about $1000, so I am super happy to get those parts!
As a postscript, I was working out title transfer and shipping details with the seller, when he offers to sell me both wheels with brake panel, cush, sprocket, and axles for $200 delivered. Sold!
So for about $700 I've darn near got a complete rolling chassis delivered to my door, and what parts I didn't get from this seller I mostly already have as spares from sourcing the best possible condition parts for the first bike.
What a deal!
Just trying not to ponder the cash I'm going to need to throw at restoring all the parts.
Trying not to think about that overly much.
And, oh yeah, and I do still need a gas tank, solo seat, and cowl, and do I buy another brand new XR650L and part out the pieces I don't use on eBay to try to recoup the XR650L purchase price?
It's only money.
I did get a frame for $150 though, there is that.
Ha, I have bought few parts out of CT too. Guess Allen grabbed that Sac frame but not sure. I wasn't exactly committed anyway so I'll keep looking. Don't really want to open my spare engine for nothing, was thinking about at least throwing it in the frame and hooking up harness and essentials to see if it fires up.
B(a)t it's noisy
So All Balls is a marketing company that sources steering and other bearings from no-name Chinese manufacturers.
I found K&L, also a marketing company or distributor that does the same sort of thing except with with Japanese name-brand manufacturers such as NTN, etc.:
Price is somewhat more for Japanese. I didn't research exhaustively, but K&L is maybe 20% higher priced compared to Chinese?
Sailah, a very kind and talented soul read of my recent troubles on my sheared bolt thread and made me this:
Tomorrow I'll have all my own parts to try to make an acrylic see-through version of the above, so, depending on time, I figure why not at least get some experience trying to make my own version, knowing all the while that Sailah's beautiful work of art is on its way in the mail to me too.
When you get to the point of extraction don't forget to apply some heat (as was mentioned by one of the other members) to the boss that the bolt's broken off in. This will help to soften/loosen up the Loctite. Should back right out then.
Good luck!! wiguzziman
A very happy ending to my sheared-bolthead sadness.
Short and sweet, my acrylic jig worked!
Pictures and the full story here:
Needless to say, my success was in large part first asking myself 'what would Bill do?", and taking action accordingly.
Happiness is Ikon shocks, with the top mounting bolt at 10ft-lbs or common sense, whichever comes first.