Honda NHX110 (LEAD, Elite)

Discussion in 'Battle Scooters' started by DaBinChe, Dec 16, 2013.

  1. Inoplanetyanin

    Inoplanetyanin One day closer!

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  2. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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  3. av8erdunn

    av8erdunn Been here awhile

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    So I changed out the stock rollers to slider 12.5 gr and gained about 1-2 mph. I am hitting 52-53mph now. I am probably going to go ahead and order the new molas tire since this tire is 10 years old. The bike only has 1000 miles now but I am sure the rubber is hard. Hoping I will gain a couple more with the tire change.
  4. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    Great! Let us know how the over size tire does for you.
  5. Inoplanetyanin

    Inoplanetyanin One day closer!

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    I didn't buy this one exactly, mine was a Kenda, but in OEM size.

    I had it on the front of the Elite for about 12 000 miles now. And even though the treat is only about 40% used, there is some chopping going on at the edges. But for the mileage and price, I can't complain.

    In my opinion, the scooter has just enough fender clearance for the OEM tire sizes, especially when loaded going over bumps and pot holes. Even the OEM rear does sometimes rub over the mud guard when the bike is heavily loaded. Although I know you had good results with oversized tires :)
  6. Inoplanetyanin

    Inoplanetyanin One day closer!

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  7. Inoplanetyanin

    Inoplanetyanin One day closer!

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    IMG_5157.JPG
    What other stock scooter rack can allow this kind of easy back pack attachment :D
    Rusty J likes this.
  8. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    When the suspension bottoms out the oversize tires (100/90-12 & 4.0x10) do make contact with the top of the rear mudguard and the forward facing body panel/leg shield up front. I never had any rub marks from the stock size tires when I was running them.
  9. av8erdunn

    av8erdunn Been here awhile

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    I shouldn’t have an issue with that and if it does it will be very seldom. I don’t think it will be a big problem but you never know.
  10. PhotoAl

    PhotoAl Adventurer

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    Sorry for slow response, waiting on parts and have been trying to accumulate miles on my BMW. Going on a long trip out west later this month and need to get it serviced before. LOL spent the last two days working on my heat tolerance! Airbox temps were 102.2 yesterday and 101.8 today. Today was worse got stuck in stop and go traffic for a couple of miles - remember this is the hot AND humid south.

    Already ordered the 110/90 tire - it is a big tire. Will mount it later this week. In restrospect wish I had gotten the 100/90 KD1 but was a scared off by the soft compound descriptions of it. I come from the sport bike world and soft compound to me is something that is very sticky when warmed up and doesn't last very long. Funny ting the tire is the first thing to arrive. When parts arrive I will tear the scooter apart and replace water pump, seals, coolant, adjust valves, change engine oil and gearbox oil, clean starting pinion and mount tire then it will be ready to sell. Ive been riding it the last week or so and it is nice little scoot.
  11. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    The KD1 along with the Dunlop tt93gp last the same as each other and lasted me just as long as any other tire that I have tried on the elite110. During ScooterCannonBall they lasted close to 11k miles while the rear ML16 lasted 10k miles. Under my commute thru the mountains those tires lasted about 3.5k. This is the same abrasive road that makes my the Michelin Road 2&5 last only 2.5k on my xsr900, which has always lasted 9k-11k on other bikes and roads/conditions

    On my Miata the stock tires lasted 9k miles, when I got it at 2k miles tires looked new. Two weeks after buying the Miata went on a 4k mile road trip, got back and tires still looked more then half with over 6k miles. But riding that rough road from 6k to 9k made it bald quick. My current PS4S has close to 3k miles and seems to hold up a little better then the stock Bridgestone on the Miata.
  12. Inoplanetyanin

    Inoplanetyanin One day closer!

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    Each person of course decides for themselves but one of the reasons I choose the stock size tire is to avoid a hypothetically deadly scenario with an oversized tire. Imagine you are descending on a mountain road that makes a right hand turn on the bottom and where there is some gravel/sand in addition to a bump or a pot hole. Your tire is at the edge of traction. Then you hit the pot hole, the suspension compresses but the bigger tire has not enough clearance and makes contact with the fender, because of that the tire temporarily changes the speed with which it rotates and loses traction in a turn on a sandy road surface. You fall and head under the wheels of an oncoming truck.

    Impossible scenario? No... hence I prefer to not unnecessarily increase risk on an already risky transportation that the scooter is. Why buy wrong size tires when you can buy the ones that are designed for it again?

    (Again, this is not to criticize those who choose the oversized tires, just sharing the reasons I don't).

  13. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    So I got one of these tires from Amazon and it does say DOT on it. Looks on par with the OE tire.
  14. PhotoAl

    PhotoAl Adventurer

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    Scooter is back together, and it runs!!! Bought a new water pump and seals then took everything apart - not too bad but not easy. It certainly is buried behind a bunch of stuff. Had to remove: Luggage rack, seat and tub, right side panel, radiator cover, radiator, dipstick, radiator mounting plate, fan, flywheel, stator and ignition pulse generator, thermostat housing, and water pump! Everything was very clean other than some residue from heavy seepage from weep hole in water pump. No corrosion or anything. put it back together and have put about 25 miles on it without any issues. The water pump drive change is an interesting setup and while the whole package is very compact the drive chain is a bit fiddly to get back together. While I was at it checked valve clearances (perfect), changed the oil, checked spark plug, changed drive oil and cleaned and lubed the starter pinion.

    Haven't mounted front tire yet.

    EDIT: As for water pump failure just appears to be seals going. If anyone wants a water pump assembly WITH bad seals PM me. Can have it for the shipping charge. Impeller and bearings seem OK a little stiff to turn which I think is the seals but it does weep.
  15. Inoplanetyanin

    Inoplanetyanin One day closer!

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    Congratulations. What did you mean by drive chain, and that being "a bit fiddly"? Were you referring to timing chain? Is that what turns the water pump?

    What oil and coolant did you use?
    Have you also replaced the thermostat while at it?
    How much are you selling the scooter for?
  16. PhotoAl

    PhotoAl Adventurer

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    Thanks, the chain drive is off of the oil pump. Behind the water pump there two shafts, on the left is one with a plastic gear and a sprocket for the chain drive. The back of the shaft is in the engine case and the front is in the water pump housing. The right shaft is the impeller shaft and a sprocket fits onto the shaft. The chain drive is powered by the plastic gear which is driven off of the crankshaft (I think). A small chain, think very small bicycle chain connects the two sprockets and drives the water pump. Fun part is putting it together. On the back of the water pump housing the gasket is a long O-ring which is held in place in a groove. I mounted the left shaft, gear and sprocket. Then I added the chain and the other sprocket. Remember the shaft for the right sprocket is part of the water pump housing so the right sprocket and chain kind of just sit there in place. The very tip of the shaft is tapered just enough so that it can be wiggled in place thru the sprocket when putting the water pump on. Don't forget there is also the crankshaft and seal (in WP housing), left side shaft and another small shaft which has a flat spot on the side so it is position sensitive. Everything has to be carefully placed and don't forget the two dowel pins that must be in place as well. If you are not confused by now then I've failed. Also the chain and sprockets are supposed be be lubricated with oil so everything is messy and slippery :-). I think it took me 4 tries to get it in place correctly. Nice part is everything fits nicely and if something is not going together then its probably not right and need to back off and try again.

    Not as bad as re-installing the cams on my CBR600RR.

    For oil I read up on type MA vs MB which Honda recommends for gear oil (and engine oil). MB has less friction than MA which is for motorcycles with wet plate clutches. Scooter don't have wet plate clutches so after wandering thru the Google oil wilderness I went to the auto parts store and bought 10W-30 Castrol Synthetic. I wouldn't put it in my motorcycle but its OK for the scooter. For coolant I used a quart of Honda premixed motorcycle coolant that I had left over from a coolant change a while back. It was still sealed.
  17. Inoplanetyanin

    Inoplanetyanin One day closer!

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    Must be a satisfying feeling having done that work and seeing that it runs well afterwards. Yes, describing the engine setup does not allow for easy visualization, but I know anything described like that will be hard to picture in the head without looking. Interesting that you think that MB has less friction. Do you come to that conclusion thinking that since it has no friction modifiers for wet clutch applications that it must be an oil with less overall friction?
  18. PhotoAl

    PhotoAl Adventurer

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    No I looked it up and that's what I found out. https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php Surprised me, have been very aware that the friction modifies in modern energy efficient oils are bad for wet plate clutches. Used to use Shell Rotella T6 in my motorcycles even though it wasn't JASO MA rated. JASO MB standard is an oil with less friction and good for any engine that does not have a wet plate clutch. Although Honda says don't use oils labeled energy efficient I'm not sure why. All the oils I found that were MB rated were scooter oils but since that is a very small market in the US I can see why most manufactures don't bother to get their oils rated. I have 3 or 4 quarts of motorcycle oil but wanted to get closer to the MB standard went with the auto Castrol Synthetic.
  19. Steve_h

    Steve_h Been here awhile

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    T6 is MA rated. It's on the back of the bottle. So is T4.
    Energy efficient oils have friction modifiers to make them slicker in them and so are bad for wet clutches.
    That's why Honda says no energy efficient oils.
  20. PhotoAl

    PhotoAl Adventurer

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    Didn't know T6 was MA rated, good to know. It's been a several years since I've used it. About half way thru the oil change cycle my FZ6 made more mechanical noise with it and shifting was a bit less smooth so I switched to a different oil. Its not a bad oil I just found a different one I preferred. FZ6 transmission was clunky when shifting slowly and at lower RPMs get the revs up and go for fast shift and it was a delight - no surprise its an R6 gearbox. Since the FZ6 there have been a CBR600RR and a ZX6R 636.

    Since the Elite 110 doesn't have a wet clutch not sure why Honda makes the statement about energy efficient oils.