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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by The PacRat, Apr 18, 2008.
Picked up a cream puff. What an unusual beast.
May as well try here, right? My PC started soiling a rotor from a leaky fork seal; rather than replace the leaky seal, is there an upgrade front end which will bolt on the the PC? Not only would I get a clean rotor but improved braking and suspension, too. Thanks in advance for your collected wisdom.
There's another PC800 thread here I think where the OP swapped his forks for something else. Maybe a VFR800? I don't know if the forks fit the PC800 triple tree or if that had to be swapped out too. The donor bike's fender was used also since the PC800 one didn't have the mounting points on the new forks.
I've got a leaky fork too & just pulled them a few days ago. I was happy that it's possible to do without removing any body panels. You can reach the upper pinch bolts from the under side. I haven't reinstalled them yet, but it's pretty obvious that a torque wrench won't fit for torqueing them. I guess that's okay for the uppers?
@GlennR just make the pinch bolts snug by hand. They don’t require gorilla torque.
With fresh 10w fork oil, new EBC sintered pads and fresh brake fluid I find the stock PC front end to work quite well in the suspending/stopping departments. The stock anti-dive gizmo on the left fork/caliper actually seems to do something under braking. Remember to lube those caliper pins.
Agreed, the stock front end is competent. I just thought that since I'll be pulling the forks off anyway, I should investigate the possibility of upgrading if it's as simple as sending a couple hundred to a wrecking yard.
The PC800 is a bit odd. The Temperature gauge does not tell you how hot the engine is, the sender is on the bottom left side of the radiator so it tells you how hot the water leaving the radiator is. You could run the engine with no coolant until it melts down and the needle wont move off the pin on the gauge.
In Addition, The thermostat on my bike was physically broken in pieces and resulted in bad enough overheating to melt the right sidecovers and part of the black plastic heat shield that goes around the base of the engine enclosure. The engine itself is one tough SOB and continues to run perfectly.
I did find a replacement thermostat from a Renault that needed a tiny bit of filing to fit. However.... notice that the stock Thermostat has a tiny bleed hole drilled in it, the Renault stat did not!
Without the bleed hole the temperature would cycle every few seconds between normal and HOT and shoot some coolant into the overflow bottle.
A 1/16th bleed hole fixed it and it works perfectly now.
My thermostat does not come up to “normal” operating range during the winter here in Nebraska. It stays down towards the left but stays steady. During the summer it goes to about the middle until it gets too hot at which time the fan comes on. The pointer is just a little past midpoint at the time when the fan comes on. It has been the same with both PCs that I’ve owned. Tony
My 89 PC had an issue where it would jump out of 3rd and back to second on up shift to 3rd if I was not careful on shifting. I did see that there were a pair of gears that were specific to 1989 and different for other years ( I think some of the 1990's got the leftover 89 gears too). I bought a 1995 gearset that looked like new and replaced the set that was in my bike. Surprisingly, for how many times the gears had skipped and clunked and made grinding noises before ending up in 3rd or back in 2nd they looked remarkably good with no witness marks anywhere.
The original 1989 gears had 5 dogs that matched up with 5 slots in the mating gear, the newer ones have 4 dogs and 4 slots. I'm not sure why it makes a difference but the new 3rd gear is the smoothest shifting gear of them all now and the old problem is flat out gone. There was not a single problem visible with any of the old parts that I removed. (yes, I replaced everything in the transmission). Re & RE an engine in a PC is not the easiest job I've ever done and neither was splitting the cases. One very odd thing about the PC was that when it was all back together it had zero compression. I almost tore it all down again before I found that the bike has to be cranked over a considerable amount (maybe 60 seconds) before the lifters pump up and the valves open properly, since then the bike has run perfectly.
Mine is exactly the same.
I've been missing the PC800 that I sold a while back and lucked upon this 1998 with 13k miles on her.
Bought an 89 PC800 with 9500 miles this week in the Alien Crash Site capitol of NM. Several panels and the right mirror got fragged when the PPO got run off the road by a texting driver in AZ. Otherwise it looks to be in great condition under the rash, everything looks almost new. Ordered tires, brake lines, and making a list of OEM stuff to get. Wow, I thought BMWs took a lot to get to the bike to work on it, but this thing is crazy with the Tupperware.
It's the first bike I've had where removing all the plastic is in the OWNER'S manual. Just nuts. Left fork needs rebuilding (apart already), someone has had the carbs off for some reason, and one of the hoses broke nearly off when I removed it (NLA for Mama Honda). Other than that, shouldn't take much to get her back on the road. Looks like a fun project (scary evil music begins playing somewhere...).
I did the final drive swap from a 07 vt1100 over the weekend and I wish I would have done this with my first PC. I got the final drive on ebay for 50 bucks and it took me about and hour and was a very straightforward job. I totally dig the 10% taller gearing.
Thanks for that info, I expect it should make the TupperWing a bit more tolerable on the highway. No downsides to the swap?
I did the same swap on mine 4 years ago and would never go back.
I really don't see any downsides. I was wondering if 1st gear was going to be too tall, but actually, it's perfect for my riding. However, I haven't put a ton of miles on it, but I'm heading out for a 1200 mile ride over the coming weekend (mostly interstate). I'll have something to report on next week.
Hey guy's I'm late to the party, as I just found this thread. So if I'm hearing you correctly a 07 VT 1100 final drive will simply bolt in? Does anyone know what the final drive ratio is? I'm going to see if I can find out looking in my shop manual, etc. I've always thought the PC could use another gear. Most bikes back then had 6 speeds by that time, but the PC didn't. Only God knows why. But changing the rear ratio is obviously the best way to achieve similar results. I put the first new 1989 PC 800 together, anyone had ever seen in Jonesboro Arkansas. Test rode it, and fell in Love!
I have owned 2 since a 94" which a dog took out 1/2 block from the house. $6427.00 worth of plastic damage back in 2001. I bought my second one about 13 years ago with 7947miles on it. It now has 30,000 plus and still runs, and rides as new. Absolute gorgeous bike in My opinion, and I might be a little biased. LOL!
The VT1100 final drive swap reduces the RPMs by about 500 at highway speeds. It really helps reduce the engine buzz at speed. It also makes 1st gear slightly steeper but isn't a problem unless you're fully loaded, plus have a passenger, and starting on a hill. The clutch might slip a little under those conditions.
Btw, there's a spacer or something similar that I recall which you'll need to swap from the PC800 final drive onto the VT1100 one. You'd notice it, but it's nice to be forewarned (in case you're running low on beer).