Honda Reflex Forum questions and answers

Discussion in 'Battle Scooters' started by olographics28, Jul 13, 2014.

  1. bandito2

    bandito2 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2011
    Oddometer:
    624
    Location:
    somewhere outside of the box
    If you cleaned the variator and rollers, NO lubrication should be done to the rollers. The black powder you saw was from normal belt wear. You also may see where the belt has rubbed on the case during belt slap.. Again this too is normal. I usually clean things up with spray brake cleaner because it does not leave a residue.

    Are any of the fins on the variator broken off? I can't see all of the fins from your pics, so if any of the fins on the variator are broken off then it will be out of balance and will cause vibration. If that is the case then you would be well advised to get a new outer pulley drive face. Are the rollers in the correct ramps? The black ones should be in the ramps stamped/labeled with "BL"

    From what I see of your clutch bell, (the thing with the 4 oval holes than turns if you spin the rear wheel) outwardly it looks fine. Some clutches when they get very hot will get "bluing" from excessive heat. Maybe from riding long hard up hills and/or while carrying extra weight like heavy rider/passenger lots of cargo loaded etc. Honestly I've never heard of anyone ever replacing the bell unless it was rusted inside. But your bike has less than 5000 miles....Really there shouldn't be anything wrong with it. Typically if a low miles bike has sat around unused very much then the problems usually come from the carburetor being gummed up or gas starved because of a clogged fuel filter from rust forming in the tank. And some parts may need to be changed because of age. like tires; especially if those are the installed originals which would be way past 6 years in age.

    The new belt should have made things improve though you may have noticed some belt squeal. This is normal with a new belt and will fade away eventually as the belt wears in a little. The K-mod is going to have you running higher RPMs so it will be noisier because of that. Really it >sounds< like a clutch issue if the vibration is only happening on initial acceleration. But it could be a loose, out of balance wheel, worn tire, loose motor mount, sticking brake.

    >===== My lament:
    Wished I could test ride it..... that's the tough thing about describing in print from somebody who doesn't know for sure if what they are experiencing is normal or not. Makes it tough for those that DO know to help effectively. =====<

    You should get a service manual that covers 2001 - 2003. It has all the specifications, torque values, all system diagrams (cooling, electrical, lubrication, hydraulic brake system etc) step by step procedures for repairs and on and on. It will help answer many questions you may encounter during your ownership on servicing and repair. But the groups and forums are great for quick answers and tips on how to do things that are not specifically explained in the service manual. Indeed, the yahoo groups is an active and very informative site for Reflex owners. If you go there be advised to see if you can find what info you need by first looking in the "Files" section.
    https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/hondareflexowners/info

    The longer you live with this bike and learn its ways, the easier it becomes. It's a good bike... don't give up on it.
    #21
  2. bnc

    bnc Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2014
    Oddometer:
    51
    Don't know if this will help but about a month ago, the ball bearing in the rear driven face of the variator went bad on mine. I could rotate the rear wheel on the centerstand and could feel a grinding in the rear assembly which went away as soon as I removed the centrifugal clutch. Apparently the roller bearing is more prone to fail but I was able to confirm it was the ball bearing this time.

    I didn't have the tools to remove either the roller or ball bearing. Loaner tools from Autozone, Pepboys, and O' Reilly didn't fit so I ordered the entire assembly with a new ball bearing and roller bearing. What I didn't expect was the low end became very smooth. No roughness on moving from a complete stop at all. Moving a low speed was a real pleasure. Unfortunately, it didn't last and is back to its old self again probably after less than 1,000 miles.

    I did sand the movable driven face of the variator when I had it all apart so it looked more like the dull steel of the new part. I didn't sand the new part or the clutch bell or the clutch shoes.
    #22
  3. bikeridermark

    bikeridermark Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,285
    Location:
    Southern Ohio
    Not riding this particular scooter, it's hard to say what it is. Power pulses are going to be felt on a single cylinder bike, even twins for that matter. This could be what the OP is feeling. It's not going to feel perfectly smooth.
    The wheel-against-the-wall-rev-the-motor-for-5-seconds-a-few-times worked for mine.
    #23
  4. winemaker

    winemaker n00b

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2015
    Oddometer:
    1
    Location:
    CT
    I have an 02 Reflex I bought used and it has a 12V outlet inside the front cover. It looks like an OEM as it fits exactly with no apparent cutout as an after market, but it doesn't work. Nothing I plug into it turns on. However, a light stick indicates power but apparently backwards; with the clamp on a ground the light shines with the point on the sidewall not the bottom of the outlet.

    I'm trying to locate a schematic to trace the wiring to locate the power source. It doesn't seem to be right to the battery, but if it is that doesn't make sense it would indicate power. I'm missing something. Any help?
    #24
  5. Bronco638

    Bronco638 Nobody Home

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2004
    Oddometer:
    5,574
    Location:
    Elk Grove Village, IL
    I've have/had two 2002 Reflexes as well as an '03. None had a power port inside the front cover or in the glove box. Probably best if you trace the wires to see how it's connected. The polarity may be reversed. Sounds like something a previous owner installed.
    #25
  6. sufferinghusband

    sufferinghusband Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2019
    Oddometer:
    12
    Location:
    Nowra Hill NSW
    Is the NSS2503 the same running gear as the NSS250? I recently went to change a primary drive belt and ordered a standard NSS250 belt. Everything I have read tells me they are the same belt, but things are quite vague on the Australian NSS2503 that I have. Anyway, went to fit the belt today and it seems really short. I fit the clutch first and I cant even get the belt to go over the main drive bolt, let alone the drive face. Any ideas what could be wrong? I am fitting a 23100-KTB-003 belt but no way will it go on. The old belt was toast so couldnt get any details off it. Any help appreciated.
    #26
  7. bandito2

    bandito2 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2011
    Oddometer:
    624
    Location:
    somewhere outside of the box
    People should try to understand that the (proper, preferably OEM) drive belt may
    only seem to fit too tight or too loose. The pulley faces both front (variator) and rear
    (clutch end) can and do spread apart and come closer together during their function
    of changing the ratio between the front and rear pulley faces. ie; The front pulleys
    are further apart allowing the belt to be further down between the pulley faces of the
    variator while the rear (clutch end) pulley faces are closer together which forces the
    belt to be higher up on that pulley when first starting to move the bike. This approximates
    a low gearing.

    As the bike accelerates, with increased engine RPMs, this forces the front pulley
    faces together by the action of the rollers (or sliders if so installed) which also causes
    at the same time the belt to be forced (pulled) further down between the pulley faces
    at the rear which approximates higher gearing than at the start. One can see this
    action by having the bike up on the centerstand and with the belt cover off. Using
    increasing and decreasing engine RPMs one should be able see the ratio changing
    action of the two pulleys.

    The pulley action imposed on the belt during these these ratio changes keeps it at
    a relatively constant tension. Of course there is some variation in belt tension on the
    top section and lower section during acceleration and deceleration. There is enough
    "play" in belt tension that will allow the belt to vibrate up and down some to where at
    times it may actually "slap" and make contact at the upper and/or lower sides of the
    driveline case. Some marking made by the belt may be noticed. This is normal.

    So with that in mind, (the belt being under a bit of tension even at rest) one needs to
    effect a way to reduce that tension to be able to get a drive belt off or on. One of the
    common ways to do this is to force a wedge of wood between the rear pulley faces to
    force and hold them apart during belt removal or replacement. (the rear pulley faces
    are steel so the wood should not cause damage) Doing this should allow for the drive
    belt to be loose enough to be removed or to be installed over the rear pulley. For install,
    the belt could then also be able to be placed over the variator boss and then begin
    installing the variator outer (fixed position) pulley.

    Lastly, I'll add that while tightening the nut to the variator, one should turn the variator
    forward (BY HAND ONLY! NOT BY USING THE STARTER) during the process to keep from
    "pinching" the belt to only one section between the faces. It may help to remove the
    spark plug to make it easier to turn the variator. So, tighten some, turn the variator, tighten
    some, turn the variator... etc. Using this process will help prevent the variator face from
    becoming loose from an improper install. Also it will help ensure that the final torquing
    to spec will actually be correct. Don't forget to remove the wood wedge holding the rear
    pulley faces apart (or whatever one is using) before trying to turn the variator.

    HTH
    #27
  8. Birddog57

    Birddog57 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 27, 2008
    Oddometer:
    30
    Location:
    Cen TX
    Another drive line vibration issue...Between about 55 and 65 mph I am experiencing a drive line vibration. If I release the throttle the vibration goes away, but starts again as soon as I apply power. Could this be a clutch bearing problem? Saw a thread on this problem somewhere, but not able to locate it. Thanks for any responses.
    #28