hot for the Ohlins on the AT? Read on...

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by Greg the pole, Aug 7, 2019.

  1. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile Super Supporter

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    OEM pistons, but I radiused the ports (not at all easy to do on those tiny things) and I partially blocked the 0.7mm bleeds with 0.5mm safety wire. I should have photo'd how I did it, it's not the easiest operation to describe. I'll photo it next time I have the forks apart.

    I think that the Ohlins inserts would be a big step in the correct direction....

    ...but from an economic standpoint I don't know if it would be the best course of action. Putting $1000 worth of Ohlins cartridges into $1100 worth of 45mm ATAS parts tubes might be money thrown away. The ATAS tubes aren't as stiff as I'd like, and I still don't know if they will hold up over time. I'm one of the guinea pigs on the ATAS setup, I'll let you know how they hold up over time.

    Hindsight being 20/20 I should have rotated my tubes another time and waited to see what the 2020 AT has for suspension.
    NSFW and Amphib like this.
  2. Danodemotoman

    Danodemotoman Have MC will ride

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    Still maddening with the stiction. 2016 model
    Appeared 4-5k mi. Ridden only on pavement with heavy rider.
    I have the ATAS uppers waiting to go on.
  3. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    SKFs are very good seals and dust seals. I like your attitude. I'm on the same page.
    Where_AM_I? likes this.
  4. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    link? Is his review as glowing as mine?
  5. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    @yokesman
    any update on this? curious
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  6. Where_AM_I?

    Where_AM_I? n00b Supporter

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    Hey guys, I have a 2017 and I’m getting pretty impatient waiting for Öhlins to deliver. My forks sucked at 5000 miles and I’ve put about $1000 into rebuilding the stock forks. Cogent did all they could when they worked on the bike and the ride home to VT was amazing on them. I have stiffer springs but no re-valve. Riding season has started for me and I need to do something. Just blew a seal, replaced it and now the other side blew. The stiction is annoying and kills any front tire in 2500 to 5000 miles (chiseled). What’s the deal with ATAS uppers? Is that a straight swap or will I need to Frankenstein the bike? Should I just replace the uppers with stock and start over? I have 43k miles now. Want to keep riding.
  7. Quercus petraea

    Quercus petraea Been here awhile

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    you can just straight swap your uppers for ATA’s. No suspension travel afected, and no fork height afected. No need to use ATAS lowers and no need to replace bushings. And forget about stiction.
    Seals will blow again cause they’re crap. You can replace with SFK’s or Kawasaki’s.
    Where_AM_I? likes this.
  8. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    Isn't there some shimming involved?
  9. Quercus petraea

    Quercus petraea Been here awhile

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    Motociclo (i think it was him, or may be Greg the pole) made measurements and it was ok. It seems that standard AT uppers internal diameter is a little bigger than in the ATAS’. So it’s not about the lower tubes or the bushings.
  10. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    Go with ATAS uppers. No shimming. But a re-valve is a huge improvement.
    More here: https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2018/05/11/the-crf1000-honda-africa-twin-fork-re-valve-procedure/
    there's a whole write up on my blog, c/w vids on dis/re assembly of the forks: https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2018/10/06/2017-honda-crf-1000-africa-twin-fork-inspection/

    on the subject of the ohlins...well...you're on this thread, so you read my experience..
  11. Where_AM_I?

    Where_AM_I? n00b Supporter

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    Thanks for update! I will check it out soon!
  12. gve.mcmlxxiv

    gve.mcmlxxiv 2016 Africa Twin DCT No.272

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    I did ATAS uppers works great. Make sure to leave 55mm air gap with spring in, bigger spring with same hydraulic level as old spring doesn’t leave enough air in the fork. Motociclo says causes hydraulic lock and blows out seals if air gap isn’t big enough. Go with the kawi seal for sure! I learned some noob lessons, might want to also read about some of my black eyes I posted during the process as well as reading the more experienced guys. Get ready to buy weird tools if you don’t send to Konflict or cogent.
  13. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    Greg does not seem to care for them but I have fantastic luck with seal savers.I started using them at least 8 years ago and have never had a seal fail since (I do wash them out sometimes when cleaning bike.The stock seals are weak and I replaced mine with race tech skf black seals.The expensive green seals are nice on a light bike but you will not notice the slightly less stiction on a heavy bike.I put the greens on my trials bike and can notice just a hair smoother but the bike only weighs 148 fully fueled.My uppers on AT are ceramic coated and are super smooth but I do need to revalve a bit softer.The gold valves do not have a bleed hole drilled in it so I have options. Going to contact Motociclo soon and get a new valve stack worked up to install.
  14. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    meh...to each his own Jeff.
    Different strokes for different folks.
    They have a place, but not in my heart. I do have a set of zip up short booties, and do put them on if I go into the muck, and feel lazy. And you're right, I do wash the bike and the booties after a dirty ride..like this one
    [​IMG]

    Mostly now though..is I'll ride through some crud, stop for a picture/pee, whatever..and wipe off the tubes. Job done.
    For off road, I never ever use them. Over a hundred hours on the green SKFs on the BETA and zero issues. I did change one fork seal and dust seal, as one was starting to weep. Same thing wipe, and ride. On most day rides, 80% of the suspension gets used pretty much all the time (i've been into the twinkies!) so just wipe it when I get home, to be ready for the next ride (in case I don't wash the Beta).
  15. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    I see skf has a special dust seal scraper design I would like to try in the future.
  16. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    don't bother. It's a piece of shit. I tried them on my KTMs some years ago...it's like a french tickler for sperm...
    it just amuses their ass for a while, then lets them in anyways...
  17. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    You have a way with words lol.Must be stuck at home watching porn
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  18. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    close.
    I'm working from home.
    Robin Williams (rest in peace) said it ages ago in one of his standups..
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  19. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile Super Supporter

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    My 2016 tubes and 2018 ATAS tubes measured the exact same ID.

    All dimensions on the lowers were the same too (except the different bushing location on the 2018 ATAS).

    I used Racetech ultra slick bushings, they appear to be stock bushings that are machined out so they can "rock" to prevent binding.

    The Racetech bushings feel "sloppier" than the stock bushings when doing a bench test. I think I measured more displacement as well (my notes are at work, I'm at home, sorry).

    I have tried both shimmed and not-shimmed with the racetech ultra slick bushings, I prefer shimmed. Again I can't remember what thickness shims I used, it's in my notes.
  20. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile Super Supporter

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