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Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by EnderTheX, May 8, 2011.
Thanks. That's the one I was looking at.
I needed an impact driver to remove the two phillips screws that hold down the cable clamp that secures the wiring as it leaves the stator.
They are locktited at the factory and mine at least were a bitch to remove ...
Tried removing them with regular phillips screwdriver and almost messed up the heads - had to move to using impact driver ... and bought new screws since they were slightly buggered.
You will want to use locktite on the stator hold-down screws & the cable clamp screws when re-assembling, that is in the manual.
Guys, sort of halfway into it, got everything apart, how do I get the stator out once I have removed the screws holding it in place (incl. the cableholder)? Pulling, turning, it won't budge.
I can twist it from left to right by maybe 1/3 of an inch, basically as much as that circled lip allows. But I cannot get it out, pulling, twisting... What's the trick?
Freezer did the trick!
Looks a little crunchy
Bike's back together and I managed with 3 1/2 beers only. Not too bad. Haven't done the shakedown ride but the readings from the alternator look good. 24-25V from all phases, going up to 40+ when revving the bike.
Main challenges in my case: One of the screws for the cableholder was a PITA to get out, but managed in the end. Stator was hard to remove once all screws were out, after a little thinking time in the freezer it finally moved. A two inch piece of the gasket tore although being as careful as possible, and while there's different opinions I patched it with some carefully applied RTV as I did not have a new gasket available. We'll see how it goes.
Wow, I missed most of the excitement but I see you did just fine. Good luck with the bike and yell if you need me when passing thru!
Somebody owes me a beer. Enjoy your new flywheel.
CONGRAT'S my brother,,,,,,you did good.
Thanks man! Rode the bike to LA Paz today, around 350km. No hick-ups and I cannot see any leaks. Headlight is still disconnected at this point but it's looking positive!
Big thank you also to inmate noshoes who helped me big time finding a guy who'd bring the stator!
if all goes well maybe i'll get a chance in a year or two
I need to my RR but I'm not sure what wire to are pos and neg on the RR. I have the 3 yellow from the stator but 2 red and 2 green so not sure of sequence to check. Yes a searched the net and I can't find the tread on this forum. I know how on a simple 5 wire RR. The extra wires
are not helping!?
RED should be POSITIVE,,,,,make sure by tracing back to the battery positive terminal,,,or better yet, check a wiring schematic for your year and model and hope that everything is still stock.
I couldn't find a schematic after searching for quite awhile, so I ran both reds and got the same numbers and then ran though the greens and got the same numbers. Looks like my RR is fine and the stator is 70v ac in all 3 phases at 4k and 27v at idle. All the connections were clean and tight. Must be the battery but it took a charge fine an a charger. about 13.7v dc.
Hi Dirt wolf,
I concur, your charging system #'s point to a healthy stator, however just because the battery accepted a charge up to 13.7 volts does not mean that it is not sulphated or have a bad cell, with the battery fully charged take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Glad your stator and Reg/Rect checked out OK,,,batteries are cheaper and easier to replace.
Thanks for your feed back Thumper. Not sure why I didn't start with the easy one first and load test the battery. I'm so paranoid about the stator failing that just assumed the worst and started there first and figured while I had access to the wires that I would rule out the RR. Appreciate your input!
BMW chose to use 2 parallel wires (2 red, 2 green) instead of one larger diameter wire. More flexible.
Thanks Reaver, makes sense. I'm easily confused so it took a bit to see the obvious