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Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by EnderTheX, May 8, 2011.
So... battery showed 13.1v no load and 8v under load test. New battery and I'm good to go!
CONGRAT'S,>>>>>>>>WISHING YOU MILES OF SMILES
Looks like the replacement stator fried yesterday. Had to jump-start at the last fuel stop, and rode 170 miles home in the dark on a moonless night with the headlight unplugged (shadowed various vehicles relying on their headlights).
Stator output (plugged in) is 10.0, 6.9, and 7.3 volts, 73,939 miles on the bike now, so 45,272 miles on the second stator.
Already have a Ricks Motorsports Electrics replacement stator on the shelf. Probably need to order a CE-605-SB regulator (and rotors, fork seals, chain & sprockets, etc.).
Just checking mine. At idle recently with my high beam and Cree lights on my voltage is reading 13.4 to 13.6 volts. With hand grip warmers on and 4 ways it drops to 13.0 to 13.2. But above 1500rpms, it's charging at 14.4. With high beam just on it goes to 14 volts at times.
The image shows with everything on at idle.
So what are the recomendations for the stator and R/R combo to replace them on a 2011 F800 GS? Has fried 2 rebuilt stators in 10,000 miles.
Stator: electrosport ESG 831 vs. Ricks 21-023?
Regulator/Rectifier: compu-fire 55402 vs. CE-605?
For folks with issues, there is a nice troubleshooting flowchart on this page:
(Click the link "Fault Finding Guide")
My vote would be fore the ESG 831 and the CE-605 - I've talked to Kyle Wood at ElectroSport, and Jack Flemming at Roadster
They both impress me as stand-up guys.
I've had that setup on my bike for 40K tough miles and no issues so far.
Here's the notes on my upgrade: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=890729
Thanks for the recommendation and the info, I just sent Jack an email and will try to locate the CE 605 and the ESG 831, I hope not to run into any snags since I live in Colombia South America I need to get it shipped over seas.
Do you have a picture of the final install please? I am about to embark on the very same project.
I used the CB 605 which is also bigger than stock..............
I made an adapter plate from (IIRC) 3/16" aluminum as shown here and it worked out well.
Thick enough to countersink the two machine screws from the stock R/R to hold the adapter plate on,
and also thick enough to get sufficient threads to screw the new R/R to the adapter plate.
I'm using the CB605 since June 2016, 30,000 kms still getting 14.1/14.2v and the original 7 year old battery (that is getting replaced this winter). I used the retaining nut clips from the OEM system.
just finished replacing my rectifier with the mosfet fh020aa from roadstercycle. made a bracket pretty much like tofire's. installation was straight forward clipping the connectors off of the OE rectifier and soldered the two positive and two ground wires together before crimping them with waterproof butt splice.
I got approx 30,000 miles on the Electrosport ESG 831 unit and it was starting to drop voltage when running my heated grips so replaced it. On my second unit now with a few thousand miles. Quality appears very good for aftermarket stator.
Replacing my stator today and had a quick question.. how much oil is behind that engine cover? I'm guessing it's just a couple tablespoons or residual? Is this a keep it on the side stand job? Or a lean against a wall job? Or a lay'er'down job?
Just on side stand, and no oil leaking.
Funny timing, got the email alert for this as I was tightening the last bolt back up. Did it on the sidestand, I think I had one drop of oil come out. Super easy job if your crash bar lower bolts aren't bent and a little rusty, about an hour and a half total moving real slow.
Funny is that happened the same to me with the Motech crashbar bolts ( i learnt is not necessary Bolt fixer - loctite type, LOL)
Hope you enjoy lots of miles with no more issues!
Best regards from Spain
I had a battery fail after 2.5 years on my 2009 F800Gs (46K km on the odo)
I replaced the battery, and put a bluetooth monitor on..
Once started, the battery's voltage will hover around just 12.15 - 12.4 volts for minutes on end at idle. When riding, it will sometimes go to 13.8v, but never rises to a healthy 14v-plus
THe battery just seems to slowly drain over weeks of 10 minute trips twice/week.
I tried testing the stator, putting the probes of a basic multimeter in as per page 1 of this thread.
I used the V~ 200 setting (I don't know much about auto electrics!)
Readings were: 1&2 =15.4 2&3 =15.4 1&3 = Nothing! Ziltch.
Can I assume this is a burned stator and proceed with replacing with the electrosport? Looks pretty easy to DIY
(The bike also doesnt maintain consistent revs very well, ie - RPM varies when revving, despite holding the throttle dead-steady)
1-2 2-3 and 3-1 should all give readings close to each other in value.
15V - 20V at idle
and something like 70V (AC volts) at 4K - 5K rpm.
So if one of them is dead ... yeah new stator time ...
I like the electrosport.
not hard to swap but remember the cover will be hard to remove due to the magnets,
there is a VERY sharp ridge in the "cup" of the flywheel don't cut yourself
you may need an impact driver to loosen the two screws that hold the stator wiring harness retaining clip to the inside of the side cover
You will also need to consider replacing your R/R with a series one. The OEM shunt type R/Rs put a lot of stress on the generators, getting them to burn overtime. Shindengen SH775 and SH845 the most known candidates.
thanks for your help and advice,
I have the new stator bolted back in and about to attach the right hand case back onto the engine (excited)
Can a kind soul please tell me the tightening order and torque settings for this? (F800GS 2009)
Cheers again :)