How I copied everyone else's Sportster ADV build

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by CopyCat, Aug 31, 2019.

  1. molochnik

    molochnik Anhedonic Enthusiast

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    @CopyCat , words escape me...except maybe *nice job*!
    As for the weight, the 540lb figure looks an awful lot like a rubbermount weight. I thought all the solid mounts were right around 500-503.
    The stock Sporty frame is wicked heavy and I think one would be hard pressed to whittle enough away to make a meaningful difference, especially with rear suspension.
    I put together a rigid Sporty using a Paughco Loop frame. The bike ended up only weighing 425lbs but I've sacrificed rear suspension. There's a hell of a lot of structure at the rear motor mount and swingarm pivot on those stock frames.

    Your bike is inspiring...in fact, I have a spare Sporty frame in the shed; hmmmm.
    #61
  2. Automatic

    Automatic Been here awhile

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    I'd imagine it would be fine then, the oem cable had 5mm of extra but needed around 10mm not to break. Have you had a chance to measure your wheelbase?
    #62
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  3. CopyCat

    CopyCat I am NOT like the others Supporter

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    The service manual lists stock XLC wheelbase as 59" and I added 4" to swingarm. 63"?
    #63
  4. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    You could start with lead tape weights and stick them to the vertical surfaces of the foot peg. That way you can easily play with different weights until you find a happy place. If the adhesive holds up, you're good to go. If not then duplicate the weight in steel, drill and tap it and bolt it to the peg.
    #64
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  5. madrider5150

    madrider5150 Riding somewhere

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    I notice at freeway speeds moving from highway pegs back to the rearsets the vibration in them but not really more one side than the other. Does it have anything to do with moving it closer maybe, no spacer to the sprocket cover? As far as the r/r I haven't had any problems but am no longer riding in that wisco mud so it doesn't get too clogged up.
    #65
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  6. Rippin209

    Rippin209 Long timer

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    Hey cool idea, the bike looks awesome.

    What's your front fender look like?

    Is a fender extender an option?

    I know you don't want to fill in the area around those fins

    Post up a picture of the bike as a whole

    I'm curious what your up to on costs?
    #66
  7. CopyCat

    CopyCat I am NOT like the others Supporter

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    Cost? LOLOLOLOLOLOL There are MANY ways to do it much cheaper, but when you are copying builds like the Carducci?????
    WetLargeBobcat-size_restricted.gif

    It's a standard KTM fender
    0924191201.jpg
    #67
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  8. CopyCat

    CopyCat I am NOT like the others Supporter

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    I bet that has a lot to do with it
    #68
  9. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    id start by making bushings to take up the slip and give it a firm mount.
    #69
  10. CopyCat

    CopyCat I am NOT like the others Supporter

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    Slip? I don't understand this "slip" of which you speak
    #70
  11. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    fucking auto correct. Slop
    #71
  12. CopyCat

    CopyCat I am NOT like the others Supporter

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    Ah so. Imma thinking there is no slop anywhere. The bolts that hold it together are the standard HD diameter and they are torqued correctly. Its possible because there is so much of the bracket directly in contact with the cover, not standing off with spacers, it could transmit more vibrations to the peg. The exhaust mount is also attached to the back of the bracket, might add to vibration
    #72
  13. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    If it’s anything like my tracker die setup, there’s counterbored holes so the socket head bolts go in flush. If it was me, I’d turn up some tiny spacers and give yourself 1/16” of poke out to isolate the chainsikle mounts. Your foot won’t notice.

    I’d bet there’s a little bit of micro movement. My 2-1 is mounted at the tracker die sprocket cover and my mids are bolted straight to it, I dont have any appreciable peg vibes. But I’m also running a rubber capped biltwell Norman peg.
    #73
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  14. CopyCat

    CopyCat I am NOT like the others Supporter

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    Ah so. I do seem to recall seeing that situation and thinking about a cone to fill the area. I think it will have to wait for winter though, too many rides and business to tear it apart again before dead of winter. Imma go for a long ride and see how much my foot will take before it goes numb.
    #74
  15. Rippin209

    Rippin209 Long timer

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    Looking good, I think you should extend that fender a bit to try and keep crap of the engine
    #75
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  16. CopyCat

    CopyCat I am NOT like the others Supporter

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    We will see. Why do a simple cheap fender extension when I can copy the Carducci DS at more effort and money?:lol3 Slotted sheet metal, offset out from the R/R. As with most of his bike, an elegant solution.
    jimmythehog_SC3%201%20Rebuild%202015_IMG_1145.jpg
    #76
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  17. molochnik

    molochnik Anhedonic Enthusiast

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    If you can get away with knocking the dirt off of the reg/rec as mentioned below you ought to be fine. One thing that really pisses the rec/reg off is a poor ground. They come from the factory with star washers between the reg/rec body and the frame to cut through the powdercoat and effect a ground. I thought it was odd to see them where they were and I believe the book actually talks about their purpose. All that said, I generally run a discrete ground wire from under one of the mount bolts to a bare spot - usually under the nut and washer on the other side of the bracket. Doing this may also help wick some heat away; it may not be much but it'll be something.
    You could also use something like a 1/4" aluminum plate between the reg/rec as a heat sink if you take the finish off of the back edge of the body.
    Another idea I had for your particular concern was using something like the louvers on a dirt bike's radiators so most of the impact dirt won't cake up in the fins and still allow some airflow. It could complicate cleaning though...just a thought.

    I used welding cable on my rigid since the battery box is on isolators and probably sees a lot of action with no suspension. Welding cable is super flexible and can be cut to fit.
    As an aside, I've spent plenty of time up in the Downieville neck of the woods. I love the Sierras.
    #77
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  18. flinders_72

    flinders_72 Long timer

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    I'd spin the rec/reg around to have the fins vertical for a start which will help the dirt and mud slide off.
    #78
  19. CopyCat

    CopyCat I am NOT like the others Supporter

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    Got it out for a better testing at our Fall ADV rally. First was a decibel check. We have a 96 db limit per the AMA rules. I had previously checked it at idle on a phone app at 73 db so I wasn't too concerned, but the test is at 4000 rpm so who knows?
    decibelcheck.gif
    I can live with it. The Ducati X Scrambler in front of me tested at 100b. Make a racket, scare the livestock, get the dog barking, interrupt the peace and quiet, don't expect smiles.

    Took it out for about 25 miles of gravel roads. Steady at speed, not twitchy at all. Very nice. The rocky sections at speed showed the suspension to be too stiff all around, needs rebound adjustments.

    My ex factory MX buddy took it out and flat wrung it out. Flat grass track, mild single track, wheelies, all of it. SO MUCH FUN to watch a really really good rider in action. He did note some frame flexing. Believes it the swingarm mostly followed by flexing in the neck area. @johnwesley and @madrider5150 or anyone else that has an extended swing arm, have you noticed this? I don't think I could ever ride it hard enough to matter but its and easy fix.

    He also noted very hard shifts, missed shifts, and being hard to get to neutral. He believes the Chainsickle geometry to be off. He suggested trying to get the adjustable rod more to 90 degrees with the shifter arms. I started with sending a picture to Shane to see if its installed correctly, but I definitely see what he's talking about.
    chainsickle2.jpg
    I suppose I could flip it around and make it GP style shifting
    #79
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  20. johnwesley

    johnwesley wanta be

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    I never noticed it on mine but, I wasn’t MXing mine. Jumps and trail riding sure. Colorado mining road style which showed a good build with out the stress that MX racing would put on one. For what I “believe” you want that swing arm will work fine. Seeing how you had a pro-build it i’m Sure he knows where to reinforce it for the best benefit if you choose.
    #80
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