Alright, so this is my first attempt at a “HOW-TO” so, not that you need any encouragement, but criticize away . If you need a better picture or explanation on something, let me know. So without further adieu, here we go…<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> <o></o> *HOW TO INSTALL A KLR250 FAIRING ON YOUR 1987-2007 KLR650 USING STOCK KLR650 GAUGES*<o></o> <o></o> TOOLS REQUIRED:<o></o> <o></o> -Hack Saw (purchased cheapo one from Home Depot and worked fine)<o></o> -Drill w/ assorted bits<o></o> -Metric wrenches<o></o> -Philips Screwdriver<o></o> <o></o> That’s it! If you have these tools, you too can have a KLR250 headlight/fairing on your KLR650 with the stock gauges. You will also have the ability to go back to the stock fairing without any hassle.<o></o> <o></o> PARTS REQUIRED:<o></o> <o></o> -KLR250 Fairing<o></o> -KLR250 Headlight Frame, Bracket and associated hardware<o></o> -(4) 6mm Bolts and Nuts (I used zinc coated hardware from Home Depot)<o></o> <o></o> OK so now that you have all of your tools and parts together, let’s get started. This whole process probably took me a total of a few hours to get everything mounted and working. That is taking my time and not including taking everything back apart to repaint the parts I cut. This is so easy, just about anybody could do it.<o></o> <o></o> STEP 1 – TEAR IT DOWN: <o></o> <o></o> First thing you have to do is take everything apart. There are quite a few posts here showing this so I won’t go into extravagant detail here. A few screws and nuts to get the fairing off and you are left with the exposed headlight and mounting frame. Disconnect all of the wire harness plugs. Don’t worry about reassembly as the plugs can only go back together one way. Now remove the headlight from the frame and take the frame off of the bike. <o></o> <o></o> Now you should be left with this:<o></o> <o></o> <?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" oreferrelative="t" o:spt="75" coordsize="21600,21600"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><vath o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></vath><o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></o:lock></v:shapetype><o></o> <o></o> <o></o> I know I kind of condensed that part quite a bit but it is all pretty straight forward. If you want to see anything specific, again let me know.<o></o> <o></o> STEP 2 – HACK IT UP:<o></o> <o></o> This is where the modifications begin and the part that makes the way I did this different from what most others here have done. This is also how you make this work with the stock gauges. So remember the bracket in the picture above that the stock gauges? Well that is going to stay with a few changes of course.<o></o> <o></o> First change you make is to cut off the bracket that the wiring harness plugs connected to with the hack saw. Pretty easy. I also cut off the loop that goes around the throttle cables but this isn’t really needed. If cut the loop off though you do not have to disconnect the cables to remove this piece from the bike when you drill it later. <o></o> <o></o> Cut where the red lines are:<o></o> <o></o> <o> </o> <o></o> <o></o> Many people cut off the bracket that is welded on the headstock. The way I did this everything fits so you can leave it.<o></o> <o></o> <o></o> Now let’s switch over to the KLR250 headlight bracket. This is what you should have:<o></o> <o></o> <o> </o> <o></o> <o></o> Now you are going to make a few changes to this bracket. First thing I did was cut off the tabs that held the wire harness plugs on the KLR250 (they are actually already removed in the above photo). This is circled in green.<o></o> <o></o> Next you are going to drill out the (2) bolts that would have connected this bracket to the top triple tree of the KLR250. They are shown at the top of the above photo. I started with a small bit and worked up with larger ones until the bolts popped off. Whole thing took about 10 minutes. The bolts you drill out are circled in blue in the above photo.<o></o> <o></o> Lastly, you are going to cut a notch where the yellow lines are. Again, pretty straight forward. This is import because it allows you to kook the speedometer cable into to the KLR650 gauges.<o></o> <o></o> Next step is to drill the tabs the bottom triple tree. I forget what size I used but again, I started small and worked my way up until (2) of the 6mm Home Depot bolts would go through. This is what it should look like:<o></o> <o></o> <o></o> <o></o> <o></o> Not to confuse anybody but this is also different than how I have seen most people do this mod. Usually everyone uses some sort of extension here. The way I did this you just bolt the bracket right up. I think it is more rigid and doesn’t involve any fabrication of new parts. Alright, where was I…<o></o> <o></o> Next step involves and the KLR650 gauge bracket and the KLR250 headlight bracket. When you are done with this step, the whole this will look something like this:<o></o> <o></o> <o></o> <o> </o> <o></o> So what I did here was to drill (2) holes the same size as the last (2) 6mm Home Depot bolts through the KLR650 gauge bracket. In the above picture I tried to show this with the red lines. Here are some different angles so you can see what I mean.<o></o> <o></o> <o></o> <o></o><o></o> <o></o> <o></o> <o></o> STEP 3 – PUT IT BACK TOGETHER:<o></o> <o></o> (Yeah, I know there was really more than (3) steps….so sue me. You get the idea)<o></o> <o></o> With the notch you cut in the KLR650 gauge bracket the speedometer cable should attach easily. Once everything is bolted up, the whole assembly is pretty stiff. In fact I was a little concerned there was not enough vibration isolation for the gauges but so far no problems. This is everything back together:<o></o> <o></o> <o></o> <o></o> <o></o> <o></o><o></o> While I was at it, I figured I should also perform the “Whale-Tailectomy” as I have seen it called. This is the results:<o></o> <o></o> <o></o><o></o> <o></o> <o></o> So there you have it folks! I know, I know…lipstick on a pig but I think the overall result is a much less visually porcine piggy wouldn’t you say?<o></o> <o></o> <o></o> <o></o><o></o> In summary, this whole thing was done for about $50 in parts and I like the end result a lot. I would also recommend filing down all the cuts so you don’t have any sharp edges rubbing on cables and also painting all of the bare cuts with some black spray paint to prevent rust. I wasn’t looking for a KLR when I bought this dual sport but like many, a deal to good to pass up landed me this beauty. I hope this “HOW-TO” will help a few people out in some way.<o></o> <o></o> I’ll end it how I started it…questions, comments, sarcastic remarks??? Let’s hear ‘em **Also forgot to add - A big thanks to everyone that helped me out with questions I had during this process. This is a great community so I am hoping to help some people the same way people helped me.