How much does oil type, grade matter?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Breezlife, Sep 15, 2019.

  1. DeepBarney

    DeepBarney International Bumbler

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    Looks like I finally get to be the first one in an oil thread with "Rotella 15w-40 in my bikes, diesel truck, cars, lawn mower, and wife's cooch"

    :lol2






    Anyways... Use oil, new preferably, and the appropriate amount. Ditto the statement about avoiding oils with friction modifiers if you've got a wet clutch.
    #21
  2. zaxrex

    zaxrex Been here awhile

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    :lol3 Seeing the Brotella argument thrown around in circles well-removed from my previous communities makes me laugh.

    Do people really also put Rotella in bikes??
    #22
  3. Baroquenride

    Baroquenride Everyone dies, but not everyone truly lives.

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  4. CROSSBOLT

    CROSSBOLT Been here awhile

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    How can you tell by looking at the oil container what Group the contents?
    #24
  5. zaxrex

    zaxrex Been here awhile

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    OK, I'm not sure I'm following your argument here.

    For the record, I have nothing against T6. Used to run it in my WRX back in the day. Started getting wonky UOA results right around the time Shell supposedly changed the formula.

    I will admit that I was stuck in a cognitive loop here -- OP is referring to an A/O cooled bike. I've only ever owned A/O cooled bikes. I suppose I should rephrase my original question to "Do people really run 15W-40 Rotella in Air/oil cooled bikes?"
    #25
  6. Bounder

    Bounder Typing...

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    Rotella is US only though, not available here in Ireland or EU for that matter.
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  7. anotherguy

    anotherguy Long timer

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    Not easily. Best to do a little research online. PDS sheets (look at manufacturers website) often contain information that will tell you. The CAS (chemical abstract numbers) are 64XXX for mineral based oils and 68XXX for PAO and Ester. Honestly anything group III and above the differences will only be seen in severe conditions. They are benefits to using a IV or V oil but in normal duty a group III is a great oil. Honestly the group II oils are good oils now days. You have to seek out a truly bad oil.
    #27
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  8. Baroquenride

    Baroquenride Everyone dies, but not everyone truly lives.

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    Ah, that's completely different than what you originally stated and how it came across. :thumb And to answer your question, I don't see any reason not to, if the bike calls for 10W-40ish. Many bikes call for a higher viscosity of oil though, like a 10W-50 or my Husqvarna which takes a 10W-60 oil. For that I use a 10W-60 due to the heat (which is what you're worried about) and won't use the Rotella.

    As for the OP, in a RE a 50 weight oil will be perfectly fine in that engine that requires 40 weight oil. When the time comes for an oil change, go ahead and get some 40 weight oil in there, but don't stress over it. It's not the oil in that engine that will be a problem for you...
    #28
  9. Breezlife

    Breezlife Adventurer

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    Uh-oh. the 40 was an error. The RE recommended lube is 10w50. I corrected it a few posts later, but it's still being read as per the original, so I've edited it in there too. I don't think it changed the discussion too much until now, since a lot of the early comments were of the 'put oil in it, ha-ha!' variety.

    I was concerned more about the low temp, and the oil used being possibly 15, not 10, and also about it being semi, not fully, synthetic. As sagely pointed out by H96669, the 'fully synthetic' cited by RE in the manual, Elf Moto4 Tech 10w 50, is in fact a semi-synthetic. I'm not usually this ocd about such matters, but buying a new RE model means entering a large experiment as a guinea pig, so the warranty is important.

    This got me exercised enough to go back to the official RE service centre and demand specifics, and lo and behold, they told me that they had used Motul 5100 4T 10w 50, which also is semi but which also meets the minimum API SL and JASO MA2. Both Elf and Motul use a variation on synthetic tech -- 'technosynthese' for the latter -- rather than semi-synthetic, as if things weren't confusing enough already. So it seems even RE engineers were thrown and the requirement for fully synth is, in fact, in error.

    And I feel all right now. The warranty is secure, and the bike feels great. It's been an education!
    #29
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  10. Baroquenride

    Baroquenride Everyone dies, but not everyone truly lives.

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    Your temps in Ireland are on par with ours here in the rainy PNW, the only difference is our grass, literally, isn't as green. I've never seen grass so vividly green as when I stopped for a beer coming back from Iraq... Anyway, in a multigrade engine oil rating, the first number, like the 10W or 15W, indicates how thick the oil is under low temperature conditions. The second number, the 40 or 50, is how the oil behaves at full operating temperature. I'm willing to bet you won't be riding in around -25*C weather so it's irrelevant which grade you get.
    https://blog.amsoil.com/a-beginners-guide-to-motor-oil/
    SAE_Viscosity_Grade_Temps.jpg
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  11. Breezlife

    Breezlife Adventurer

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    You need (even) more rain!
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  12. broncobowsher

    broncobowsher Long timer

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    Clean oil.

    I'm more horrified from people trying to get double, triple the miles/time on oil over even the most aggressive maintenance schedule. Then they complain that the engine burns oil, the cats fail, an the engine is toast in a little over 100k. Change the oil, keep on top of it, and you might change the spark plugs at 100k instead of the engine.
    #32
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  13. NAVIGATOR

    NAVIGATOR Wanderer

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  14. ohgood

    ohgood Just givver tha berries !!!

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    well,, ya ! i assumed they weren't borrowing the oil dumps from AutoZone to fill their engines
    #34
  15. anotherguy

    anotherguy Long timer

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  16. concours

    concours WFO for 47 years

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    My Tiger 1050 was a bit low on oil, when I checked it, staying in Donegal (Falcarra). The ride to a Letterkenny moto shop at a “spirited” pace was worth the 12 Euros for oil.
    So, yes. Use proper moto oil.
    #36
  17. AviatorTroy

    AviatorTroy Long timer

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    Good article but also consider the fact that the author is trying to convince you to part with your $$$ to purchase his company’s products (Motul)

    If an oil is JASO approved and of the correct viscosity then yes it’s absolutely safe to use. Rotella Conventional 15-40 is JASO approved which I use in bikes with wet clutches.

    Many use the Rotella 5-40 synthetic but I personally am not comfortable with it, I think a 5wt is too thin for almost all motorcycle applications.

    If the bike has a dry clutch (BMW/Ducati) then it doesn’t even have to be JASO. In these bikes I run Mobil 1 15-50
    #37
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  18. shovelstrokeed

    shovelstrokeed Long timer

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    Shows you don’t understand viscosity designations. 5 weight only at the very low end of the temperature spectrum which is well below 0 C.
    #38
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  19. k-moe

    k-moe Long timer

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    Specifications > advertising/ what some guy from the dealership told me.
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  20. anotherguy

    anotherguy Long timer

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    I ran M1 15W50 (viscosity called for by Aprilia) in my wet clutch Aprilia Tuono. Still had the original clutch at 140K miles when the trans output shaft bearing took a shit. No 50 weight oil will be an energy conserving oil thus no friction modifiers.
    #40