Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'The Sandbox - AKA Flatistan' started by twowheeledgator, Mar 24, 2019.
My neighbor is a cop. I want to sneak some in his tank at night.
I'd want to be in for less than $300. It's gonna probably cost at least $500 to get it road worthy if not twice that. If you found one in good running condition for $1,500 , that wouldn't be too far off the mark. It'll take quite a bit of sweat equity, but if you like working on stuff for fun, that could be a bonus.
^^^For a bit more than $1500, you might be better off with modern 2-stroke.
Going to look at it in person tomorrow. Will see what he says.
I figure I have three options.
1. He throws out a price I like and I buy it.
2. He throws out a high price and he can attempt to get that on CL and if he does, good for him, and if he doesn’t we can revisit the deal.
3. He throws out a high price and we move it in my garage and I can help him work on it so he can sell it on CL. I still get to tinker with it (on his dime but he should recoop what he puts in it). Maybe I get it out of my system. Maybe I will start combing more 2-stroke adds. But he should get more money for it running than how it is now.
Not much of a demand for an ‘80s under powered bike that will struggle to do the speed limit around town and perform like a cow in the dirt. So we will see.
Bring the benjamins! The old saying cash talks and bs walks is still true!
And don't discount the ole ts. Had one in high school that was a lot of fun.
$300. Thanks guys. Let the wrenching begin.
Break out the bean oil!
I love the smell of bean oil in the morning!
The other half is in the bath as we speak.
Ah.....that's just not right!!
This is actually a rescue mission.
Accepting donations to the Motorcycle Rescue Association.
I may have over cooked it. It removed the hard candy coating.
WD and scotchbright pad will bring back a lot the shine.
Good to know.
So will a lite rubbing with SOS pad and warm water. I do that on every carb I do. Over 50 of 'em by now...
Also, any reason you didn't remove the emulsion tube (the brass tube that the throttle slide needle fits in)? It has tiny holes drilled radially that let air mix with the fuel being pulled up thru the main jet and past the needle. Clean holes = better fuel atomization = better running. It (the tube) typically presses out from top, downwards into the "bowl area".
I know little about carbs.
After high school I worked a job with a truck that had continual carb problems. About one a month we had to pull it and spray it down, clean it and put it back to keep it running.
Two years ago I picked up a Ninja 250 for my son. Sat for 8 years. Carbs were the biggest frustration as even after a lot of soaking, spraying, scrubbing etc some of the circuits were crusted over.
I figured the brass parts in this must be pressed in but if they didn’t come out with ease I did not force it. If push comes to shove it looks like these are fairly inexpensive.
Next question: any suggestions on a rebuild kit. I see a lot of them out there. It’s a Mikuni, Clymer says 28.
Go to www.jetsrus.com
They don't appear to sell a ready-made-rebuild, but all the gaskets/needles/needle seats/jets are readily available. Needle seat and float bowl gasket for sure is probably shot. Jets should be okay unless you have fine scaling on the jets that you can't wash off.
You can easily tap the atomizer out. Just apply pressure with like the handle of a screw driver on that brass tab hanging in the float bowl, should pop right out. It's not a press fit. If stubborn, GENTLY tap once with a rubber mallet, again should come right out.