How to make your own Carbon Fiber header heat shield.....

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by ebrabaek, May 3, 2013.

  1. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Hopefully you will not throw up from reading yet another Carbon Fiber thread from the desert rat.....:D. The 8GS have burned many pants. I decided that before I wore my new first gear pants, this has to be remedied. The problem was aggravated by yet another Arrow header mismatch. System was shifted back quite far......
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    So a new shield had to be made. If style and functionality went head to head in my garage..... functionality would win, hands down. Every time. As the header was now set back further from the mounts, it was either mount on the pipe with hardware, or make a barn door size shield. Barn door won, as I like to stay within the lines of the bike. Hammered from 22 gauge mild steel, and a ball point hammer, this is what I settled on....
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    This will then serve as a template to lay down perhaps 4-5 layers of 6 oz. 2x2 twill....... Stay tuned....:clap
    #1
  2. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    One layer of release agent applied....
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    Second layer of release agent..... Note the bubbles in the epoxy escaping as it is mechanically degassed with heat.
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    Then after 5 layers of 6 oz ( 3K) 2x2 twill fabric.... Using max HTE for temp resistance....
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    Curing........:clap
    #2
  3. Loutre

    Loutre Cosmopolitan Adv Super Moderator

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    ffs he's back....

    Great:lol3
    #3
  4. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Lol........:clap:clap:freaky:freaky
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  5. Loutre

    Loutre Cosmopolitan Adv Super Moderator

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    BTW have you seen a doctor about your condition? I mean it's not normal for a thumb to bend that way :lol3
    #5
  6. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    It gives you....ehhhh.... special privileges.....:lol3:lol3
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  7. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Out of the oven....... cooled down, ready to break open.....
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    Opened, and rough cut......
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    Sanded into shape.....
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    Making sure that edges fit...... And Loutre eye's the thumb......:D
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    Another BMW part has now officially fallen of the bike. Just amazing how many oem parts I have on the shelf.....
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    New one in place, after wet sanding, and the rub.....
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    #7
  8. Shooby

    Shooby Long timer

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    Nice! again. :clap
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  9. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Thanks Amigo...
    Just returned from over 600 miles in the NM wilderness..... Got lost once, and went through some crazy, nasty.... notsurewhattocallit, and the guard is not so shiny anymore..... Did hold up, and no burned pants.... Whoooeeeee...:clap:clap
    #9
  10. JRose

    JRose Been here awhile

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    #10
  11. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Yeppers..... It actually is. As my lower fender was removed, the front wheel whips up a lot of dust, and over these 657 miles, I had to stop numerous times to " unsieze" the fan. On the table is a half fender to protect the rad, and what is behind. It does not need anything in the front. I have not driven in torrential rain though. Will start this soon. Glad your ok, when your lower fender broke.
    #11
  12. JRose

    JRose Been here awhile

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    I will definitely be following that "how to" thread. It's awesome that you put so much effort in showing how. Thanks.
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  13. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Yeppers... My pleasure.:freaky
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  14. 9Realms

    9Realms Drawn in by the complex plot

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    Dang, that's all neat.

    :evil
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  15. Jmauld

    Jmauld n00b

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    Just a quick question.

    After the epoxy has cured, do you feel the texture of the fiber, or is it a smooth surface from the epoxy? It's hard to tell in this picture.

    Also, just wanted to say thanks for all of your posts. I would've never had the confidence to try this without your guidance.
    #15
  16. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    It is great toy hear accounts like yours. It makes it all worth it, from my end.....:clap:clap.
    When you lay down the top layers, and saturate them with resin, the fibers pulls up a bit. You can off course leave it, if you prefer, but if you want a smooth surface, then you need to sand it smooth, then a recoat. It is just like sanding on wood. Start with a course grain, os 120....then 220.... then 600 wet sanding. If you make this from a mould, then no sanding is needed, as, the mould you have made, is already smooth.....:freaky
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  17. Jmauld

    Jmauld n00b

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    Sorry for further derailing your thread, but I wanted to show you my progress so far.

    Here is my frame guard with 4 layers of fiber, and wet epoxy:
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    Here it is midway through sanding:
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    Here it is, cut out and final sanded, and looking fairly dull even though the picture makes it appear otherwise:
    [​IMG]

    I see that you mention a "rub" above. What is that? After my final sand, do I add another layer of epoxy or do I use lacquer from a paint store?

    So far, I'm as happy as can be and very thankful for your posts!!! :clap
    #17
  18. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    Don't use lacquer... I was trying to find his video but he will be able to show you. He does a thin layer rub of epoxy which works very nicely (I use it now). Your piece turned out very nicely! I bet Erling has converted quite a bit of us to the word of CF in his day.

    Also you can clean up lines by using a sanding block, particularly on the outside as I notice some waviness to it (just a pointer, not condescending). What part of the frame is this for?
    #18
  19. Jmauld

    Jmauld n00b

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    It's a frame guard for a LTZ400. I'll try the sanding block on that edge. That should work well.
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  20. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    That is simply awesome. It feels great watching the fruit of your labor, as does it from my end to.....and it is my pleasure truly.
    On your next piece.... you first cut it into shape.....then sanding. Either actually is fine...but a bit easier to judge the lines, as it has already been rough trimmed. As Adam correctly applied above how the rub is done. With some epoxys they need a top coat of uv lacquer to shield the polymers. When I use the 1618....it is uv stabilized. ...and thus need no top coat. If it is a heat shield....the lacquer will just bubble up anyway. I am at thr end of a Pittsburgh, to El Paso road trip.....and cannot post a link to the video. But go to you tube...and search for my username .......ebrabaek...... and then go to my channel.... browse the videos in there. The rub vid...is among them. Or visit my facebook page.....high desert carbon works....there are links there as well. Great job.
    #20