How to Modify H4 LED to reduce glare -- This is the one you want.

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by spiderman302, Jul 16, 2015.

  1. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    ---------------------------- update -------------------------- 2018 -------------------
    New G6 shielded H4 LED bulb was available on amazon by Evitek!

    you no longer have to do it yourself.

    I am getting questions about not being able to find the Evitek G6 H4 bulb. I too needed to get another set and could not find them either. So I did some looking around.

    There is a lot more stuff out there now and confusing!

    In 2017 they came out with the T8 bulb with a fan and the S1 bulb without a fan.
    In 2018 they came out with the F2 bulb with a fan.

    G6 is 22 watts
    S1 is 22 watts
    T8 is 25 watts
    F2 is 30 watts

    The F2 is about 50% brighter and is better focused than the G6.

    Is it worth throwing away the G6 and getting the F2? I would say NO, since the improvement is really only slightly noticeable.

    If you just want the best available in 2018, just look for the F2 led. It looks like this and will be sold under different labels.

    F2.jpg

    It should be available soon on amazon from Evitek.

    You can get it now from JDM for a price....

    https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Gen...t+h4+led&psc=1

    or

    https://www.amazon.com/Safego-Headl...111185&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=evitek+led+h4+f2

    or you can still call Cindy at Evitek and order direct and wait for the package....


    Tech differences

    The G6 had a heatspreader sandwiched between two circuitboards. The F2 has one circuit board between two heatspreders. The plus is better focus, the minus is higher spot temperature.
    So it will take some time to prove long term reliability. I just swapped out my G6's and put in a set of F2's. I will keep the G6's in my top box just in case....

    nice to have choices!

    And there are others that work as well, Read below for the story or skip to the end for updates. See page 9 post 167 for the beam patterns for the above bulbs.

    ------------------------------------------- history ----------------------------------
    I replaced my ST1300 left headlight bulb twice so I looked into using Led H4 bulbs. I have tested a bunch of H4 led replacements for the ST. This is the one that in my opinion works best --- if you modify it...

    Search EBay for

    LED Bulb H4 HB2 9003 2015 CREE 40W

    Look for the one that looks like the one pictured here with 2 (offset) Leds mounted on each side. The Leds point to the sides not up. The full photo has foil tape that I used as a prototype. It is the same one that Cyclops 3800 lumen H4 LED.

    From my evaluations: Those H4 Leds with large emitters do not focus well. They put light everywhere and are fine if used off-road. Those with small emitters focus better and can be tailored to reduce glare.

    Those H4 Leds that point UP/DOWN work only in round lens. Do not use in rectangular lenses or in the ST. The ST fairing blocks part of the top of the lens which makes this type not the most efficient choice for the ST1300.

    Those H4 Leds that point to the sides will work in both round and rectangular lenses. They are the better choice for the ST. However the low beam emitter must be shielded to prevent the light from getting into the bottom of the lens.

    If you look closely at the Halogen H4 bulb you will notice a metal plate under the low beam filament. If you look at my LED light pattern (Left) photo without a lower shield you will see upper wings of light that create glare for oncoming traffic. Putting a shield under the low beam LED blocks the light from getting into the bottom of the reflector (H4) and creates a sharper cut off (Right) photo. (there are more improvements made below)

    ModifiedH4.jpg


    But I also noticed that there was a lot of close in light that created glare for the ST rider. This was coming from the chrome part of the fairing juST above and in front of the lens but behind the clear plaSTic lens cover. This is why I also put a shield over the top of the light. The shield also redirects the "wasted" light back into the reflector and back where you want it.

    The shield was made from thin aluminum flashing found in the Home Depot roofing department. But you could simply cut up an empty beer/ soda can with a pair of scissors. The screw is a T6 Torx. To be safe I coated the circuit board with just one coat of clear finger nail polish. Do not get any finger nail polish on the led lens. Let it dry then mount the shield. The mounting hole is offset and different for each side. The bottom shield is at 90 degrees and the top shield is at 45 degrees.

    I had to trim out the middle of the rubber boot in order to mount the light. First install just the ring without the bulb. Then install the trimmed rubber boot. Then install the light through the rubber boot into the ring. Turn to lock in place. The fan will be outside of the rubber boot. I tucked the connector and the power module into fairing sides. It is easier to get to the bulb on the ST by reaching under the front of the fairing.

    Now these lights claim to be 40 watts because they use four 10 watt Leds. If you measure the power you will only measure 20 watts but 5 watts is used by the fan so you are only getting 15 watts of light low beam and 30 watts on high beam. The low beam uses the front two LEDs and the high beam uses all four LEDs. At this power level the fan is necessary for long life. Avoid the ones without a fan. They will last you more than a million miles or five ST1300’s.

    These Leds put out a lot more light than halogen lights. However the hot spot of the halogen and the center spot of the led measure about the same lux at 10 feet. But the Led has a much wider bright beam. So all that extra lumens lights up the sides of the road better. I have 10 watt Led fog lights mounted on the forks. They made a big difference when I had halogen headlights. Now that I have converted my headlights to Leds, I barely notice the improvement when I turn on the Led fog lights. In several thousand miles of night driving with these shielded LEDs no one has flashed back at me.


    My shield modification deals with the lack of cut off. If you want a hard cut off then paint the shield flat black. It is important to keep the reflective shield as close to the low beam led as possible to keep a tight beam. I am adding a drawing of the basic dimensions. I have made a few using aluminum from a soda can. The mounting holes I drill with a 0.087 inch drill. I am hoping that many of you will try this and report your results back here. Most of the light leak is off the back of the bottom of the shield where it runs into the high beam led. But, as is, it provides a significant improvement that makes these Leds very useable with minimal glare to opposing traffic on road. Fold on dotted line and cut the solid lines. You will have to trim to fit.

    SCAN.jpg

    It appears that the top part of the shield seems to cause the more scatter. I tried a few more iterations to get a cleaner beam.

    this is the finial solution:

    finalcut.jpg

    Now I have just the top and bottom parts of the shield painted black and the front part that is vertical is clear aluminum (reflective). This gives me the best beam pattern...

    Oh I also added a little extra lip to the back edge on the bottom as the photo will show. If you compare the beam pattern to my original post you can see that the little tweaks make a difference. the cut off is very clean now.

    the beam photo was only 8 feet from the wall..

    Oh it works well on my DRZ400S too...

    enjoy and be safe.
    #1
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  2. Anders-

    Anders- 690R

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    Great work!

    Do you by any chance have a comparison shot for how the pattern looks with a regular bulb?
    Been thinking of doing something similar (halogen -> led) on my bike, bit more light and saving some watts.
    #2
  3. mjc506

    mjc506 Been here awhile

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    Nice! Beam shots/comparison with halogen would be much appreciated, especially if you keep the camera on manual mode, with the same settings for both shots.
    #3
  4. Off Road Ryder

    Off Road Ryder Long timer Super Supporter

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    E bay lights are not the same lights sold by Cyclops, in fact a copy.
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  5. Anders-

    Anders- 690R

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    But the models you sell suffer from the same problem with glare (when used in a reflector) - I reckon the OP is doing a pretty good job at reducing glare with the shields.


    Edit: and in the long run I think it's pretty important that we can get glare-free headlights powered by leds.
    #5
  6. Off Road Ryder

    Off Road Ryder Long timer Super Supporter

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    Do you have a Cyclops bulb with Glare issues? Im starting to think you may have an issue with us, after your negative comments in our venders thread? If you do please pm, email or give us a call.

    It is reflector dependent, Certainly not all headlight produce glare with our LED bulbs. Far from it. We are going about the glare issue in some bikes a far different way. I personally don't see this Mod a great way to go,(for most bikes) but understand some will certainly benefit from it.
    I think the Op did a great job, not knocking that.
    I am concerned that others may think the ebay bulbs etc are the same, they simply are not. Ours are manufactured in Korea under our proprietary guidelines and specifications. Then qc,d multiple times in the states and stood behind by someone (should the need come up.)you can call and get answers or service.
    We saw the same issues with LED Aux lights, A continuing issue. just because it looks like a duck, doesn't mean its the real McCoy.
    There is far more involved in a quality LED headlight bulb or LED Aux. light than the emitter.
    Here is our latest version, it wont be long before this one is also copied.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #6
  7. portablevcb

    portablevcb Long timer

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    FWIW, I do have a cyclops brand LED in my headlight (with a Hella reflector). One of the triangle ones. It does produce a lot of scatter up close and lacks a good cutoff. Yes, you show it for dirtbikes and dual sports and I think it would excel for those. But, for the road it is lacking. Your photos of the light beams on your website show that scatter.

    Don't get me wrong, I am not unhappy with it. It does just what I expected. But, for someone who expects a nice clean cutoff on low beams they will be disappointed.

    charlie
    #7
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  8. Anders-

    Anders- 690R

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    Nah, no issue with cyclops or your products, maybe we just got off on the wrong foot.
    (as stated in the vendor thread, the negative comment was about the magazines funny article, it could just as well have been about tires, I do happen to pay attention to most led-threads though, as I'm interested in the development).

    About the glare issues with leds in reflectors, it boils down to leds not emitting (and shielding) light like a regular halogen h4, makes sense trying to construct the leds so they fit open reflectors as well as the bulbs do.


    For the record, if there was a "h4-led" that together with my 690 reflector would create a nice sharp cutoff for the dipped beam (as well as having a proper full beam) I'd be all over it...
    #8
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  9. AceRider01

    AceRider01 Fully Loaded

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    LED in Halogen reflector housing is unlikely to achieve the clean cut-off you are after... it is simply not designed for the LED. There will be LED bulb whose design come close, and some Halogent reflector housing are better than others... None is ever designed for it. An OEM spends hundred of thousands if not million in computer modelling and testing - nobody can seriously expect after-market people to come close.

    For the record i have used a often praised LED bulb in my halogen reflector for a while, but ultimately (6 months later) decided put OEM back on with a relay harness and accept the more yellowish light ouput, compare to LED.
    #9
  10. Anders-

    Anders- 690R

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    Of course you're right, from the pics above I'd say that at least the cutoff seems okay'ish though.
    #10
  11. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    This post is how to fix glare cause by the H4 LED bulb and have the necessary cutoff to use on road. If the LED does not have a lower shield in the correct place then you will have glare. Changing focus does not fix glare it messes up the high beam. If you do not have the H4 bulb this fix is not for you. The upper shield is only required for the ST1300 since it will have a secondary glare that will limit the riders ability to see. The Cyclops 3800 light is the same design (better Quality) but it will need the shield to give you the light pattern that you need. Stay tuned I will update on other ways to do this. I am real happy with this solution that is why I took the time to publish it. Those of you who do not want to do it yourself will have to wait till Cyclops or someone else can make it happen. You will find caparisons of halogen vs LEDs bulbs else where..
    #11
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  12. AceRider01

    AceRider01 Fully Loaded

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    Need a further away pic to judge the cut off but it does seem better.... Although the final pic is not too dissimilar to what you would get from L2 onwards vstrom with led in it.

    OP has done good work, it's just unlikely that you will get the clean cut-off as you would from a factory hid or led. Don't forget standard halogen don't have a clean cut-off either. But the lack of intensity means it's not an issue.

    Lighting on road is all about compromise. Even with OEM hid, have you ever notice how blinding it compares to halegon when seeing a on coming vehicle over a crest!
    #12
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  13. Anders-

    Anders- 690R

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    #13
  14. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    Well almost, that one has a few issues. I bought one. The low beam led is too low it should be higher. The under shield does not keep enough of the low beam light out of the bottom of the reflector. But it is the right idea. A little aluminum tape in the right place and it will work. The worst part is the wire braid heat sink does not get enough of the heat out of the LED. I ran it on my lab bench and it was getting way hotter that a unit with a mini fan. if your installation provides a lot of air flow then it might be OK. but most bikes the light is behind a cover of some sort. The low beam leds turn off on high beam.
    #14
  15. Anders-

    Anders- 690R

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    Do you have any experience with something like this? -> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-H4-Hig...Kit-/251808550394?hash=item3aa0f58dfa&vxp=mtr

    I'm thinking a model like that would make sure there's minimal glare, but the width of the beam would suffer (as light is emitted up/down).
    #15
  16. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    Yes. This is the BEST light if you have a ROUND headlight! I have these lights in my son and daughters cars. no mods required. the pattern is very nice.
    Most of the low beam light goes straight up but the RECTANGULAR reflectors have a flat spot top and bottom that wastes this light. That is why the side emitters work better in the rectangular headlight since the parabola is only on the sides. It would have been fine in my ST1300 but there is part of the fairing that blocks the top of the light and the flat chrome spacer creates close in glare. So the side emitter with my shield worked better in my ST1300.
    #16
  17. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    Here is a photo of the (top) Low beam and (bottom) High beam at 25 feet in my driveway- do notice the lack of glare off of the driveway (thanks to the top shield). The center bar is about 100 fc. light 6 inchs above cutoff is 4 fc. The high bean is an awesome 220 fc.

    The problem with close in glare is that it causes the eyes to dilate and reduces ones ability to see into the darkness. You want 98% of the light out on to the horizon. light is logarithmic...

    LowHighbeam.jpg
    #17
  18. worwig

    worwig Long timer

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    I really like this info.
    I have good working (well shielded) HIDs right now, so don't have immediate plans to change right now. But it is good to know these can be made to work well.

    Now my question is.... I am using a warmer HID color. 4k. Aren't the LEDs a good bit cooler? Do you get a lot of light glare from that?
    That concerns me when I have a foggy ride home after dark.
    #18
  19. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    Cree offers LEDs in Cool white (6000k), Neutral white (4000k) and Warm white (3000k). The ones I am using are 6000k. The warm whites have half the lumens as the cooler leds. so most vendors go for the "brighter" leds. It would be nice if we could find a warm white H4 led for fog lights.
    Here on the pacific coast we get the thick ocean fog and I have used my (6000k) lights. I think that the better cutoff has more effect than color. At one time I used yellow fog lights and I was disappointed.
    I just prefer white light for seeing and being seen.
    I am not a vendor and have no connections to any vendor. I am just a user looking for the right product which no one is yet making...
    I hope my modifications help others who are on the same quest..
    #19
  20. spiderman302

    spiderman302 Recalculating

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    Just for the record.

    Last year I bought a 3600LM H4 LED bulb (the triangular one) and was quite disappointed with the light pattern, Glare and NO cut off. The vendor said that it was for off road only and blamed the problem on the reflector / lens and later the focus. I could not get it to cleanly fit in my ST1300 so I moved it to the DRZ400. However Lots of metal tape and bent sheet metal later, I created the first glare shield and improved the cut off. The two large emitters made for a large beam. Also the fact that they were round created a round cutoff. Notice in the picture to the left I put a piece of aluminum tape over the bottom edges of the two emitters to make a straighter cutoff. look closely at the emitters of the new 3800 LM leds and under the dome lens there is a Square emitter. Yes the straight edge does make a difference in making a clean cutoff. look at the nice cutoff on the same garage door made by the "bad" 3600LM LED. This is from my ST1300. (the light were ty-warped to keep in place for the photo) I also did not like the strong glare that was on the driveway. I offered the solution to the vendor but got no response. So I went out looking for something that would fit and have smaller side facing emitters. I tried a bunch of others. but when I got the V16 turbo 3800LM LED last December straight from China I knew it could be made to work... (This is a technical thread so lets just focus on solutions and other methods to make this work.)

    Here is the 3600lm with clean cut off. Yes proof that it can be done, the magic is in the shield and a rectangular emitter...

    3600LM.jpg
    #20
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