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Discussion in 'Vendors' started by spiderman302, Jul 16, 2015.
It looks like ADVMonster has a shield on their H4...have you tried theirs?
Output is a bit less...
PS- I am looking at adding some aux lights to my DRZ and my wifes Rebel...both for better lighting and better visibility to traffic. Should one use Spot beam or Flood, or one of each?
Have been considering these from Amazon...was thinking one each of spot and flood.
Thats a great question!! My bad!! Its --- GONE!!
It is not the same shield. Their light points up and is most useful in ROUND headlights.
The best AUX lights are the SPOTS.
FLOODS beams are not too useful in my experience they put too much glare on the road which blinds the rider.
Fog or driving lights are better if you need wider lights.
Cyclops has just posted the shielded version that they are importing.
more will follow.
Here is what I found in China. I will get them later this week and let you know how they work.
I have an ADVMonster bulb in one bike and it actually needs to be a bit wider pattern ,at least in that reflector. It has a good up/down pattern , both high beam and low beam , but is pretty narrow so not as much light goes out into the ditches. Ay least we're finally getting more options and hopefully there will be one bulb that works good in every reflector , probably won't be one do-it-all bulb though. Each oem reflector will need a different bulb.
Thanks Spideman. I have two, maybe three h4's I am looking at replacing. 2 are square, DRZ and PC800, the other in my wife's Rebel 250. Not sure I want to bother with th Rebel though as she will likely only have it another year before upgrading. Will wait on your results its new bulbs...
I am in Taiwan now...maybe I will see if I can find something to bring back and play with...
Well if you are in Taiwan look for EVTEK Electronic co. sorry I got confused they are in Hong Kong but the might have an outlet in Taiwan...
These look interesting...from a Taiwan company...maybe I can find some.
Some great information and food for thought
I was looking at the Superbrights conversion for autos. Looks like they mold in a shield.
Those are pretty low lumens output... 1200 vs 3000-3800 of the others mentioned here. They also have no shield.
From the picture it looks like a shield at the tip. Al least on a small phone screen. The picture of the pattern looks good with a break at the top but from a car.
The one with the wire braid gets very hot it needs a lot of moving air. Also the shield on it is the right idea but it is not enough.
The one you found in Taiwan the leds point up and are only good in round headlights. If you have a rectangular headlight then you need the leds mounted horizontialy but then they need a shield to keep the light out of the bottom of the reflector to prevent glare to on coming drivers. It is that simple.
I saw the brads when I was looking for an LED H4 light for my DR650. They got good write-ups. The back of the DR get air but is too tight a space. I thought they may melt some of the wires. I got a Cyclops 3800 last March. The low top cut off was good but there is a dark spot in the center. I had auxiliary lights that fill in the space. The high beam is excellent. I like the new light. It looks like it has a screw on filter. Is it for the 6000 to 4000 conversion or to filter out the blue?
I would share my photo from SmugMug but the share icon is gone and I only have a buy icon for my own photos.
There's no cutoff on the 3800 - it lacks a shield below the low beam leds. The lower edge of the "dark" spot you see is actually the top of the low beam, and the stuff on the sides is glare.
You can upload picture here on advrider.com, no need for external hosting.
It is not a distinct cutoff. And if it is glare it is all glare and no light. I was able to post the picture link to Smugmug with my iPhone. I have uploaded pictures into the new format. That works better. But I have a lot invested in Smugmug. The changes in SmugMug were worse than here on adv. Anyway the lighting is interesting. My Vstrom has by far the best OEM lights I've seen. With it getting darker earlier I'm going to do some picture taking and see how to improve the DR and get the Vstrom lights aimed better. May try the shielding on the DR. Just use RTV so I can take it off.
look closely at the pictures that I posted on the very first entry to this thread. if you look at the three light patterns you will see that the first one is exactly as you described. it has a dark spot in the middle. the third patten is the final one with the shield that has some black paint. it is the same light (3800LM led) but with the pattern everyone is looking for and is DOT worthy.
Oh one small detail I forgot to mention..
Look carefully at a H4 halogen bulb from the top down and you will find that there is a slight 15 degree twist in its mounting. This makes the shield lower on the driver side of the bulb and higher on the passenger side. This will create the up tilt on the right side of the road. The original 3800 lumen H4 does not have this twist since it had no shield so it will give a flat beam in the ST.
However, if you look at a DRZ headlight, the mounting slots are offset by 15 degrees to make the H4 halogen a flat beam. If you put the shielded 3800 LED into the DRZ housing you
are now twisted 15 degrees in the WRONG direction! (or 30 degrees from where is should be.) Fortunately the way the 3800 gets mounted you can twist it back to being straight up and down.
There are more that might have this problem. But if you live in a country where they drive on the other side of the road you are good to go...
Or just take off the plate (Phillips head screws) and drill/slot the two small holes 15 degrees offset from the original to make it flat and/or 30 degrees to get the up tilt...
but one of the new lights added the twist so it will be a plug and play option. Just mounted it up.
I have also seen the Philips data sheet. It is way too expensive at this time.
One quick side note about color temperature...and not saying that this is the case with the poster I quoted...just sayin.
Most people who dabble with aftermarket lighting have a skewed idea of what various color temp lights actually look and perform like, entirely because of cheap HID kits that don't come anywhere near the advertised color temperature. If you buy the 5500K kit for $30 that you find on eBay, you're lucky if you actually get 6800-7000K. A 'real' 6000K light has almost no 'blue' look to it at all, and gives a very white looking light down the road. Yes, when you look at the headlight at an angle you can see a bit of that coolish blue, but the light down the road will look white.
Conversely, a 6500K HID cheapo kit will look decidedly blue at the light, and still have a pronounced blue look on/down the road. That's because it isn't coming near a real 6500K.