How to service (some) LC4 forks

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by meat popsicle, May 7, 2008.

  1. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    I recall reading that the stock seals are better than other choices (although Athena was not mentioned). I had a pair of Synergy seals, which Scuderia West put on the middle of last year, and after two real rides (long weekends in and about Mendocino NF and Death Valley) they are already leaking... the tubes appear cherry, but I could check them carefully too.

    EDIT: I see there are more than one species of Synergy Seals for each model of forks, so maybe one is better than the other... I don't recall which I had, as they were given to me years ago.

    I have lots of maintenance to do on my bike now - not a crash but several things became apparent on the last ride.
    #81
  2. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

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    It is my understanding that skf seals are now the stock seals.
    #82
  3. Reset1

    Reset1 640-24-7

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  4. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    #84
  5. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    I know what a pirate's parrot feels like now. Weird perspective, but handy (or handless) for solo video work like this.

    Did it match my guide or do I need to watch it and figure out what needs to be changed?
    #85
  6. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    The discussion was longer than others in the Index thread appreciated but I think I have a clue of what's needed to align your forks during installation or after a mild crash. And some techniques for when you have had a harder crash (potential damage) or your just not sure they are working well and want to check things out.

    Standard "bounce" method recommended by fork mfgs., bike mfgs., tuners, and almost every veteran user:

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86958&page=434

    Equal spring pressure modification via warewolf further down that page, as well as the methods offered by several tuners. Photo of the 2003 manual method here:

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86958&page=435

    Stiction (misalignment impeding free compression/decompression) - boon booni found a spec from Race Tech but notes this is a general guideline:

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86958&page=438
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86958&page=437

    If you have a problem Derek outlined the max overlap method here:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86958&page=433

    X-plane vs. y-plane alignment here and elsewhere:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86958&page=436

    And thankfully the Peanut Gallery graciously stepped in to moderate our discussion; that begins here:

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86958&page=444

    More than enough for anyone in and around those pages. :beer
    #86
  7. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    I had a set of BMW forks that look perfect but ate seals.

    Got them rechromed and polished at a shop like this.

    http://www.garrod.com/

    They have worked perfectly since and it was worth the hassle based on the price of new.
    Just polishing tubes if there is a shop near surely couldn't hurt.

    b
    #87
  8. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Thanks for sharing the tip Bill,

    it makes me wonder if I should be polishing the fork sliders as a maintenance item.

    If creeper was still hanging out here he tell me I'm gonna go blind doing it. Loadedagain would say it kills kittens. Miss those guys.
    #88
  9. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

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    You'll get harry palms from polishing your slider too often.
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  10. rz35027

    rz35027 Been here awhile

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    Have you tried shortening the garter springs? They should unscrew somewhere in their circumference, cut 5(?)mm off the female end and screw them back together, reinstall.

    It works like a charm on my 50mm conventional forks (stiction is not an issue) YMMV...
    #90
  11. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Me too Meat, as the world turns....


    b
    #91
  12. AdventureDave

    AdventureDave MMMMM Bundy!

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    I followed with interest and was amused when people got upset about too much technical discussion about bikes in a forum set up to discuss issues about bikes:lol3. I dont know why they just dont click into jo momma instead. Good stuff comes out of those more in depth talks and it is rare to find people with the passion and time to share. Keep it up I for one appreciate the effort.

    Cheers

    David
    #92
  13. CJBDRdude

    CJBDRdude Ridin'offroadCJ

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    yup:freaky
    #93
  14. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Thanks fellas. :beer

    However I need to grow some hair on my palms so I'm not all talk. (meaning all chat and no play makes meat a very dull boy)
    #94
  15. laramie LC4

    laramie LC4 flying something...

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    #95
  16. eskimojoe

    eskimojoe they call me badger

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    To all who have donated their time and wisdom...thanks. Just did my forks (2006 640 w/19000km) and both rebound needles were a beotch to remove. When finally removed I used gun cleaning brushes to remove the crud in the tube( .22 and .375) and lubricated the o ring with hyd oring assembly grease. I'll be doing these every year from now on. All these adjustable features come at a cost and its called maintenance. Next is the swingarm.
    #96
  17. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    This may help too:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=310809
    and links therein. :beer
    #97
  18. Chase the Lion

    Chase the Lion Jeff

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    Don't know why I did think of this before, but a tip for sliding your spring on the damping rod....Slide it on part way, then simply pinch the damping road with your fingers between a loop of the coil, then simply turn the spring with your other hand so that it simply "screws" itself down the damping rod. I pinch my on the the ribs of the spring guide so that it is easy to hold. Much faster than the string or drop and catch method.
    #98
  19. fastdadio

    fastdadio Still gettin faster

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    Or stuff a rag tightly between the two. Start the threads and fish the rag out through the spring coils.
    #99
  20. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    I need your help guys.

    I ride a ktm 950se, the forks are leading axle design and have a travel of about 250mm.
    I also have in my shed a pair of 950sm forks (no leading axle) with 200mm travel.
    Is it possible to swap some internal parts between the two in order to reduce the SE forks travel?
    The culprit and source of my hesitation is that the compression adjuster on the SE forks is on the bottom of the boots whereas in the SM forks it is located on the side and where the SE forks have the compression adjuster, the SM forks have just a bolt to hold the pump.

    FYI in both pairs the top and bottom legs seem to have same length. The difference in travel must be due to the different internal pump lengths, if you know what I mean!

    Many thanks!