How to wrap your F800GS in Carbon Fiber......

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by ebrabaek, Jul 26, 2010.

  1. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    I am sorry, but it seems like I am maxing out photobucket, and they are not worth upgrading service for. I will see if I can erase some other pictures, so they can be restored. Check back in a little while.
  2. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    I guess that with all the CF threads I have in there, the 10gb monthly bandwith was exceeded this month. It will reset itself on July 22, and the pictures will be restored.

    Sorry.
  3. WF_Jester

    WF_Jester n00b

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    Success at last! Well sort of, have you ever heard the saying "if some one designs something idiot proof someone else will design a better idiot"? I managed to break/crack the top piece of glass as I pressed it down to an 1/8" thickness so one side looks like well broken glass but I am forging ahead with this piece as a study in working with CF.

    My questions today have to do with cutting, sanding and drilling. Are there any recommended ways/tools to cut/sand/drill this stuff?
  4. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    I use a 28 tooth hack saw and a hand held hack saw, I also use a dremel and a cutting blade. Regarding drilling I have found that the step drill bits work best for getting the best hole (particularly for thin CF). Sanding can be done by hand or with a block, a sanding wheel makes it easier but a lot of stuff I sand by hand. Do a progressive sand (high grit - low grit).
  5. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    You can hack, cut, grind as you feel. Keep a few things in mind. The coarser the file, the saw blade..... the more will it grap. So your wooden saw will in fact cut it, but a 26 tpi will be better behaved. Buy yourself a dedicated shop vac, and set the pipe right where you work, to capture all the dust, them wear a respirator, when you sand, to capture stuff, in case the vac, misses some. Other than that.... treat it as a thin piece of hardwood. :clap:freaky
  6. WF_Jester

    WF_Jester n00b

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    Ebrabaek,

    In the bash plate thread you told me to use this ratio

    "Resin is 30%....cloth is 70% by weight."

    Did you really mean weight or did you mean volume? Since everything else is by volume have no idea what the weights of this stuff is.
  7. bxr140

    bxr140 Flame Bait

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    Weight.

    Buy a cheap 1kg or 2kg gram scale. It will have more than enough fidelity for your use. eBay has a ton for $15-20 delivered.
  8. speed_racer

    speed_racer Been here awhile

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    no probs, thanks for the update and the pics look great! :D
  9. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    As my fellow compositor said above.... Weight it is. It would be impossible to call volume on the fibers, but weight can be accomplished with both. Bed bath & beyond....target....etc.... Find a cheap digital scale. It will do fine....:clap:freaky
  10. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Yeppers......
  11. WF_Jester

    WF_Jester n00b

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    I weighted the cloth that I am about to use it is just under 5ozs. Based on your ratio I come up with just over 2 ozs of resin. I have no idea how much the resin weights per fluid ounce but that does not sound like much or even enough. The last experiment I did I used 6 fl. oz of resin no idea how much the cloth weighted but I am sure that it was less than the 5oz this weights as it is a bigger piece I am doing.
  12. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    The utmost important part is..... Not to get stressed. Yes that is the common most busted rule. ( fiber to resin context), but if I get 10 people in a room, and they each lay up their own, nine of the ten will have about 50% too much resin, and the 10'th person ( my 7 year old will be spot on).....:D. Does that mean their layups will fail......??? Absolutely not, it just mean that those layups will be a bit heavier, and a wee bit weaker. Unless you are making a shock brace.....rear sub frame......It will not make a difference.

    How to do it right, you say..... Well....it goes like this. Have the mould...or other piece you are going to copy over, out on the table.
    Then cut the layers of fabric out ( remember to cut about 1 inch bigger than the mould, or piece) if you think it needs 4 layers.... then cut 4 layers....

    Weight those layers..... If their combined weight is 300 grams, then the theoretical correct amount of resin is 100Grams.

    Does that mean that you only mix 100 gr...... No. As a beginner you will use much more that is needed, and I see most people use twice the amount needed. So go with 200gr, and see how much you have left.

    You will find that the 1/3 ratio will have you stumped, as it is hard to comply with it, thinking that is too little resin. That is ok.... relax....have a beer, or double espresso, and dont worry......:D:D:freaky:freaky
  13. WF_Jester

    WF_Jester n00b

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    Erlin,

    I about have my first really good piece done. Of course a few questions but first I want to say thanks for all the help you have been helping me out with this. I am sure that you have saved me countless amounts of time money and frustration! :clap

    Ok the glass pieces are just not working out for me. I am using "Price-Driscoll Ultra 3 Polyester Parfilm Paintable Mold Release" on the glass (3/32 thick) but basicly had to beat the glass of my plate this time. Is this the right stuff to use? Can I use Plexiglass, MFD (Medium-density fibreboard), masonite or something that will not have to be broken off the plate after I am done?

    I did managed to get my ratio closer to a 1:1 with that I got a few "voids" on the top layers. How do you fill those in and get that high gloss fish like you do?

    Thanks again!
  14. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    When using polyester, and it's mold release, it can be temperamental... Another reason to use epoxy. If you were using epoxy ( don't think you are, as the polyester release agent would not be compatible with epoxy) then something is wrong. At this point, might I recommend epoxy, and epoxy release agent. I kid you not, it comes off ( the glass) like when you take your shoes off. Polyester..... Not so much. If you do insist on using polyester, then use a school ruler ( small plastic measuring stick), and pry the glass off. Take a look at my FB page, and find the picture series, along with the video of the Hawker premier 1A sleeper bed. I used a epoxy'd wooden plank. Pretend it was a glass plate, as they acted the same. Did you use polyester....??????:D:D:lol3:wink:

    PS.... I will post a short video in the next week or so, making a plate..... :)
  15. WF_Jester

    WF_Jester n00b

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    Still looking for the answer to this.
  16. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    There are a few ways to fill the voids. I tend to finish sand down to get out the last little bits of imperfections (make sure you scrub/thoroughly dry before adding more resin) then I will either do a level final coat that I apply by just pouring resin over the top and making sure it is evenly distributed (this works for flat pieces the best), you can do this on 3D structures but you will wind up with uneven distribution. If you have a 3D piece I have made very small batches of resin and applied it directly to the voids/holes with a toothpick just to fill these sections. Then you can finish sand after this. Erling does a final rub where he applies a very thin layer of resin to get the finish layer. This works nicely and as he mentioned this is not a perfect cosmetic finish but functional. I would google/youtube for a few methods on this. I find a lot of it is trial and error upon having a functional base of knowledge.
  17. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Best thing is to avoid the voids. Might sound funny, but in reality, you will spend much time fixing voids. Does that mean it never happens to me.... Noppers..... So to answer your Q, each void needs to be filled, with epoxy. Use whatever mean...Toothpick.... CF strand....etc, to dap a drop in the voids. Then you can carefully tape over it with scotch tape ( clear all purpose tape) as you now can rotate the piece with out the epoxy running. Care full metering of the epoxy will be rewarded. Bad thing, about high thickness voids..... Over time they can crack around the void.
  18. runnin4melife

    runnin4melife Been here awhile

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    So how does one make a CF bikini? :evil
  19. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    You start with a beautiful model.......:freaky:freaky
  20. WF_Jester

    WF_Jester n00b

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    I watched your youtube video about "rubbing" will that technique work with the poly resin also?