How to wrap your F800GS in Carbon Fiber......

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by ebrabaek, Jul 26, 2010.

  1. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    In theory yes...... but I am not sure how it will hold up. The poly is stiffer than epoxy..... and it might flake over time. Try it....but be careful. When the poly sets.......it sets......where ever you are in the rub.
  2. WF_Jester

    WF_Jester n00b

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    I have been following your roof rack on Facebook. What type of sheeting/material did you lay the bars on to cure. Is it just plain old plastic sheeting or something else. Do you have to apply release agent to it or will it naturally come loose?
  3. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Feel free to ask on FB as well. I just use heavy duty plastic Sheeting, from either the Depot, or Lowes. No release agent, as the epoxy naturally cannot bond to the plastic. Just so others can follow your questions..... Finished a CF roof rack, which can be seen on my FB page. A few teasers.....
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    https://www.facebook.com/pages/High-Desert-Carbon-Works/437413126297979
  4. Lolthatguy

    Lolthatguy Has a Zombie House

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    Well I have been thinking of things to keep me busy (coz University, renovating a house and general life aren't busy enough) and I thought about making some CF pieces for my VFR800.

    I though about making a CF pillion seat cover for shits and giggles (making a mould so I still have the original) then I thought how sweet the whole dash and surrounds would look.

    http://pages.cs.wisc.edu/~john/vfr/aftermarket/pics/98-vfr-zg-2bubble-top.jpg

    Not my bike, but the gauge surrounds, the sides up the screen and the whole surround. Everything that is currently black plastic done in CF.

    Wondering if I should make a mould or skin it?
  5. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Welcome to the dark side.....:D:D The piece you are thinking about, is not as easy to replicate, as it appears. The angles there will be hard for you to make the composites stick. Now that is normally not a big deal. as the shape just changes a little. But this piece has to fit inside another piece, and that's where the fun begins. That said to answer your question. If you skin it, and or remove the plastic, you again almost certainly would need to vacuum bag it, so as it would follow the contours of the plastic. Same principles would apply if you made a mould. Once you get over 45 deg angles, with short radius arms, you could have issues with the fabric not following the original. ... depending on type, and thickness of the fabric used. All in all.....I would go for a straighter piece to get your feet wet on. :clap
  6. Barbadi

    Barbadi Been here awhile

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    ...but with more questions than news. The mini garage/cave is ready -its more like a big toolbox that two men can stand on between the havoc- and my other project (my R 80 G/S recovery) is paused cause the weather is cold and rainy.

    So I started experimenting with a fairing I had trying to make a mould from it, so that later I could modify a copy and hack it to "perfection". Or oblivion. And make a new one etc.

    I got me some "705 Emulsion" Fiberglass
    a kilo of Norsodyne S70361TA polyester resin with MEKR 50 katalyst
    and NL-2 PVA for filming and started my experiment. Cheapest things I could score easy.

    Questions:

    It's 3 days now and the 3 layers mould hasn't gone totaly solid. It is still sticky someplaces.
    I went totally by the book to stiring and weighting analogies of katalyst to polyester etc
    I used just enough poly to saturate the fabric. No gue run all over the place. I got no problem towait for it to settle. But I suspect it's the cold and humidity that cause the delay.

    But since my cave is not heated -and I can not leave a heat source on in there and leave- could it be that I have too much cold and humidity to try epoxy forming?

    It can fall to under 50 F easily at night and the warmest is around 60 to 70 F this time of the year. Should I forget the whole thing or go to a certain type of epoxy?

    I can easy get "EPOXY SYSTEM ES 35A/B" or "Carbon Mods HIGH TEMPERATURE EPOXY RESIN". Is any of them a solution to uncontrolled forming environments?

    Oh and another one:

    The poly stuff smells like cancer and the cave is small. Is the epoxy stuff that way too?

    What kind of mask should I use mot to inhale this thing to total brainburn? Any specs on masks?

    Thanks.
  7. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    You can always test the polyester by just mixing a little tiny bit. If it is tacky after 12 hrs, it needs the wax. Regarding your layup..... Just buy a small flask of the finishing wax, or surface wax, and mix a small batch of resin.... brush it on the top of your layup, and it will cure rock hard. :clap:clap:clap
  8. Lolthatguy

    Lolthatguy Has a Zombie House

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    Excellent, thanks for your advice. I watched your youtube videos too. You're a clever bloke.

    I'll be ordering a kit next week and I'll start on the basic light switch cover. Or I'll take a mould of my glasses case and mess around with that. I'll have a look at making a mould of the pillon seat cover on the VFR800 as the first bike piece I make. Not too complex looking. Once that's sorted I'll look at setting up a vacuum system set up. This is all a ways down the track really. I honestly dont have a great deal of spare time so it will be a piece this week, 2 weeks of nothing, then another piece. etc.


    Question, is it possible to neatly but up 2 pieces of CF matting and make it presentable? On the back or bottom of a panel? Say I was making a large tube and couldn't get tubular CF and the join wasn't in a critical spot.

    Nothing springs to mind that would put me in this situation, however its been on my mind the last day or so.

    Thanks mate!

    *edit, all of this stuff has 90 degree bends in it. The rear cowl isn't too sharp a radius so it may work. Time to look around the house and see what I can CF.

    I already told my wife I am going to CF the cictern cover in my man cave in the new house. Ha ha
  9. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    There are a few tricks you can work, before you get a vacuum system, as the vacuum system is not " headache less":D.
    In Denmark, where I was born we had " modelervoks" in the US it is called playdo, which is a clay type that kidoes mold, into shapes....etc. The following is a trade secret, and should only be used in a dark corner where..... never mind.....:D:D For real though.... If you have lots of 90's I sometime use a small slab of the modeling clay to gently lay down on top of the fabric, with some thin plastic in between. That will mechanically hold the fabric in place. Shhhhhhh.... don't tell anyone.:deal:lol3. If you must do the piece pictured, then two layers at a time, max ( 6 oz either twill or satin...twill preferred ... 3K) As soon as it sets, then another two layers, for a total of four.
  10. Barbadi

    Barbadi Been here awhile

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    BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIG THANKS, my friend Ebrabaek!

    I have started my project some weeks ago, and hopefully it will end up as a fairing with a sliding wind screen on top. I went the polyester way initially and soon I understood you wise words on epoxy. So the polyester think became a mold and the project rebooted with epoxy and fiberglass.

    I know... carbon it is not... well its my first go with this things and carbon is pretty much expensive to get down here, and I also dont mind about the carbon look. So epoxy with aeroglass300 -6 layers of it-was the choise to be made.

    Here you can see some photos of it, in a "how to" -ok more of a "where the hell have you been lost all this time" blog I've set for my friends to see.

    Sorry but its still in Greek, -you see I am in the sanding stage right now no time for translations- I 'll get to have a version in English sometime.

    http://ikarusf800gs.blogspot.gr/

    One question: What filling material do you use with epoxy systems? I easily found polyester automotive filling with fiberglass powder but would the polyester in it stick to epoxy? According to your teachings it should not...

    Thanks again, my friend, if you ever roll down south, and over here in Greece, drinks are on me.
  11. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Awesome, and great to hear it is taking of for you. If you sand the epoxy you can properly make the poly filling stick for a little bit, or just enough for you to work it, but it will eventually fall off. Might be a day.... might be a year. It really depends on the polyester filler, and epoxy. I sometimes use 5 or 20 minute epoxy, as it sets fast, and then re-sand, but I have also made some clay epoxy. You can see those videos on my you tube channel.

    http://www.youtube.com/user/ebrabaek/videos

    I have only visited Grece once, on your island of Kreta. I enjoyed plenty of both Uzu, and Raki. I favored the Raki, and my officers beard caught on fire from one glass as it was lit when he drank....:lol3:lol3
    Good times....good times.
    I am in the middle of another project at the moment, and I visit this thread as often as it comes up.

    https://www.facebook.com/pages/High-Desert-Carbon-Works/437413126297979

    Cheers
  12. Barbadi

    Barbadi Been here awhile

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    ...cause this year I scored a bottle of homemade "tsipouro", similar to the raki you tasted but quite stronger -it comes from the northern inland terretories where its colder in the winter- and its perfect for giving you more project ideas for less hangover. Fire extinguiser opotional of course. :1drink

    Your lights project is cool. But why don't you go all the way and wave goodbuy to the total OEM lights boxy thing. Get the lights you want, make a mold of them, and build a new front fairing to accomodate them altogether.

    If I got your skill level I 'd put just two denalis instead of OEMs.
    But I would put them one on top of the other (high/low beam) KTM 990 style and put them embeded in a pointy agressive style fairing.

    Somethink like this:

    http://www.albertodottori.net/images/ktm 690e rally 1.jpg

    the old KTM 640 ADV setting is also a good style to go, my tsipouro thinks!

    :evil Is my tsipouro working or what?

    Oh and you turned me to at least try and make my own epoxy clay. i just dont know what pownder should I use. Building plaster? What If has acrylic staff in it to stick? we will see...
  13. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Maaaannnn. That sounds tasty. I think the reason I liked the Raki, is that we ehhhh.... enjoyed the Aquavit in Denmark where I grew up, and was born, and Raki was pretty close.
    On the light side. A few things to consider. The intergrated bracket that holds the headlights and faring on the 8gs, is made to accommodate a side by side setup, whereas the Tooms are vertical laid out. It would be impossible to set one light on top of the other, without hacking the whole front end. Lights wise.... I went away from the oem style ( two small square lights, and chose the best lights out there, and both were round, and I am building the headlight housing around it. I could off course design, and buil another faring to go around the whole thing, but, I really like this one, and it functions really good, and on top of that, I like the rough look of the 8GS with uncut lights sticking out in the front, rather than the clean cut faring. I realize this is a bias though, but I really like it just like that.:clap:freaky
  14. Barbadi

    Barbadi Been here awhile

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    The :huh setup is really cool. Congrats.

    PS: Plus now you got a spare OEM light set in case the bike takes a nap on its face. Although I guess that this setup is pretty much unbreackable and in any case easily repairable/
  15. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Thanks....
    Whilt I suppose you can break it, I think it would be hard. What I do like beside the light, is that a new front high beam is about US$200, and the low US$50, and can be individually replaced. I hope I will never put the stock back in.....:clap:freaky
    Cheers.
  16. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

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    Just ordered up a few supplies to try my hand at the CF muffler upgrade. Going to replace the aluminum body on a Leo Vince X3 from my G650X.

    Thanks for the information in all of your threads!
  17. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Yeppers...... If you post it over in the thumper section, shoot me a link....:freaky:freaky
  18. Barbadi

    Barbadi Been here awhile

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    Front:

    [​IMG]

    Back:

    [​IMG]

    Side:

    [​IMG]


    it works wonderfull in aerodynamical terms, but how do you find it aesthetically?
  19. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    I think it looks awesome. I really like the bends you did, and the window shade hanger rail for the slide.... That my friend is simply ingenious. Well done amigo :clap:clap:freaky:freaky
  20. GeckoRider

    GeckoRider Been here awhile

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    Utilitarian but well executed. Fits the look of the bike. After losing my laminar lip in the first get off in sand I have dreaded the thought of doing highway speed runs for long durations. Yours looks like it would take the pressure off my head.

    Well done.