How to wrap your F800GS in Carbon Fiber......

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by ebrabaek, Jul 26, 2010.

  1. FatDog

    FatDog Been here awhile

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    Yep, a nice gas filtering respirator is on my shopping list and also safety goggles. I also have to order the wax to add to the resin or vaccum bagging materials.
    #81
  2. Mac

    Mac Long timer

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    How about a swimming snorkel with a long hose?
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  3. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    :rofl:rofl..... You guys are funny.....Seriously though......or perhaps you were.....:D:D.......If you are going to get a chemical respirator......( you really don`t need it if you follow my advice with respect to ventilation ) You need to make sure it filters styrene. That is the danger here. By now I get that one of you got the 249...... Your call.....If you were going to make a whole lot.....big projects....indoor....I`d say get it. Again if you get it...... Don`t change the cartridge to filter the dust.......after you get the dust in the chem mask....you will never use it again......I know that a few of you are giggle`ing now....
    I will now leave the mask subject alone.....Unless we are talking snorkel and hose.......:rofl:rofl
    :thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #83
  4. FatDog

    FatDog Been here awhile

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    Erling, I'm the dumbass that bought the 249. I got it from a list of materials on your other post. The advice above is exactly what I was looking for.

    In order for the resin to dry you either have to vaccum bag the piece or add wax to the resin. Is that right?
    #84
  5. Gerd

    Gerd Adventurer

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    Great post!
    Can't wait to see the composite bashplate!

    I'm planning to make an auxiliary gas tank in composite, perhaps some fairings too, tough CF is hard to find here... same thing with kevlar.

    Is there a way to reinforce regular fiberglass with some synthetic cloth? How about sandwiching fiberglass mat and thin wire mesh?

    Gerd
    #85
  6. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    No worries.....the 249 is a great resin...... I do still use it......and it dries to such great diamond transparency....that no epoxy can match. Use the surface wax rather than the vacuum bag. Either will work.... But unless you have experience with the bagging..... It is a little difficult to get the routine down.....I usually avoid using them....simply because getting this wet layer of stuff correctly positioned in the bag......without moving it......you get the point. Your making the top piece over the airbox??? If you are going to cover the original piece.....use a little trick......wax it at least 5 times...... Then if you have the option to parafilm it.....twice..... Then one layer of resin.....wait until it gets tacky... Dap your finger on the resin to test....should be like flypaper....... Now you have about 2 minutes to start from one end.....massage it in the screw holes....:D:D ...before proceeding.....then it will be held in place by the sticktion......If you wish..... Wait 30 minutes before repeating this..... then last two layers of resin, for a nice clear coat....and that gives you some for the sanding in the end..... If you want it a little thicker.... use 3 layers of fabric..... Post as you go along.... So in short....to answer your question.... yes... either vacuum bag....or wax....:evil:rofl:rofl
    Remember to mix a test batch of the resin....to see the cure time at your setup...
    :thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #86
  7. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    The bash guard build can be seen here.......

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=605282

    If you are going to tackle a gasoline tank....... be carefull....the ethanol.....mostly.....will break down most epoxy resins.....Dont use polyester or vinylester resin....they will not hold up. This stuff will work.....

    http://cgi.ebay.com/GASOLINE-RESISTANT-ADHESIVE-COATING-IMPREGNATING-EPOXY-/310219838956?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483a8b15ec

    I would recommend you using kevlar....simply because of the impact and abrasive resistance. Last think you want is a leaking can......Makes a great firestarter......:D 3 layers of kevlar...... no need for reinforcing it. It in itself is strong enough. Carbon fiber and fiberglass is not optimal in your application.
    :thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #87
  8. scooteraug02

    scooteraug02 Dog Rancher

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  9. FatDog

    FatDog Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the scoop Erling. I just ordered the wax. I'll start on my project next weekend. Pics to come.
    #89
  10. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Right on......:thumb:thumb

    Erling
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  11. FatDog

    FatDog Been here awhile

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    Erling:

    Should I use the wax additive for each coat of 249 or just for the last coat?
    #91
  12. McVick

    McVick Been here awhile

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    Hi Erling!
    Thanks so much for sharing your expertise!

    Say I want to replicate a fairing and I want it to be as exact as possible.

    Should I do the procedure you showed here with the F800 cover for a finished product or should I take the product of the process you showed here and use it as a mold to which I would lay up the final product to on the inside. I hope I'm making sense!

    Two other questions:
    1 - how do you separate the original piece or the mold, from the new piece?

    2 - What if I want to change the newly produced piece a little from the original. Do I use foam in conjunction with the original or the mold and then shape it?

    Thanks
    Brian
    #92
  13. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Only the last coat....... Here is what is going on in the chemical process..... The polyester needs to be starved by oxygen....or should we just say air.....to cure completely. So unless you vacuum bag it.......you need to shut the air off somehow..... The surface/finishing wax will migrate to the top on the resin after stirring is done, sort of like putting a layer of impenetrable wax on top.........starving the resin of ....."air"..... It will look just like that....waxy....but dry to a bone hard texture that need to be sanded off....then polished....etc...... On some lower grade resins......from like your local automotive store.....it is mixed in.......which mean that you need to sand in between each layer. If it has hardned that is. The 249 without the wax will stay tacky for hours on the surface even the piece has hardned......so you have a little time to lay down each sequential layer. That will give you time to prepare each layer and have a zip of espresso in between. Then after the last layer....give it first one layer of resin...brushed on as clear coat.... After tacky......mix the last layer with wax....and brush that on. Let dry....and then sand......be care full not sanding into the carbon..... Hope that was not more explanation than you bargained for.....:D
    :thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #93
  14. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    :thumb:thumb

    Erling
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  15. FatDog

    FatDog Been here awhile

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    Thanks, Erling. That's perfectly clear.
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  16. McVick

    McVick Been here awhile

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    Ok thanks, so I can make a mold that way, great!

    Also I think I understand the release agents but what do you use toe pry the two parts apart? Wooden or plastic spatula of some sort?

    Thanks
    Brian
    #96
  17. McVick

    McVick Been here awhile

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    Oh, and will the release agents or any of the heat generated likely harm 22 yera old plastics?
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  18. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    With the polyester resins....... There is more "fun" involved..... Sometimes around corners....sharp edges.... The two pieces can be a little hard to separate........But soft wood keel`s......plastic keel`s....etc would be fine.
    Epoxy..... The release agent.......creates a impermeable barrier so effective that there is little to no resistance, and the pieces just about pop`s off with no effort...
    :thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #98
  19. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Not at all....... The polyester could...... So you would want to "test" a small area first.... For good measure.... you would do that with the release agent as well. Generally I teach that if you are laying over painted plastic....use epoxy..... The polyester could de-solidify the paint, whereas the epoxy would have no affect. On unpainted plastic...... Use either epoxy or polyester....but test the area when using polyester.......Just to be sure. Age of the plastic has no affect. :thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #99
  20. Chillson

    Chillson Adventurer

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    Nice post, ebrabaek! I'm very motivated now to give this a try. I can't wait to see your other projects.