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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by KayaKTM, Nov 22, 2010.
Yeah I kinda noticed that too. Don’t normally adjust too tight.
Hi guys I am refreshing my FE 390 2011 with 500 hs and need to buy the rings and gaskets. Any good source? Does the rings need to be from KTM like this:
KTM COMPRESSION RING 08 Part # 78030030100
Thanks in advance,
I've got a noob 70 degree owner question. Where the heck is this thing supposed to draw air from? It seems to me to just be the gap around the seat. How does this keep water out during riding or parked in a downpour? Wednesday I got caught in the rain and could see water being sucked in around the seat. What am I missing here?
Great question. I’ve had the same concern. Interested to hear from the group...
There is a drain isn't there? I wouldn't worry about rain water. It wouldn't flood the bike, unless you dropped it in a river, and even then you have time to save it. Lol
With the positioning of the actually throttle inlet within the air box you have to pretty much submerge the bike up to edge of the seat to cause any issues. With that being said not a bad idea to clean even a low hour filter after a rainy ride.
Hi, after I discovered that both accelerator cable sockets are broken I got a new set of cables (and the KTM Throttle Cable Protection as PABiker suggested). I have now removed the tank, opened the cover of where the throttle box etc but by looking at it all I'm not exactly sure how to proceed.
My 2010 owners manual just describes how to adjust cables that are already installed, doesn't explain any why and how and among other unclearities refers to a cable marked as #6 that isn't marked in the picture, so some link or hint about what's really going on here would be greatly appreciated!
Oh, and: I guess the brand new OEM cables do have to be lubricated? Should I use WD40 or is oil better? (And, btw: in german that oil is called "sewing machine oil" to differentiate it from salad oil and engine oil. What would be the right term in english?)
From what I recall you just pull the intake boot/filter housing from the throttle body which then allows access to the throttle body linkage cover/side plate. Once the cover is off there should be a combination of jam nuts on the cable housings that need to be loosened to get the cables free from the throttle linkage. Likely a good idea to take images of the cable routing if you have any sense that getting the new ones back is position is a challenge.
sewing machine oil
- nice trick ;-)
Yeah, it wasn't that hard after all once I understood the logic: adjust the gas cable first, after that the return cable. As a bonus safe guard I first adjusted the cables and only then clipped them into the cable holder.
Went on a quick ride this weekend. 10 minutes of perfect power and took a short break. Started right up, went about 100 feet and got boggy, then refused to start.
I've got about 5 hours since the complete go through from tank to injectors and nothing but E-free. Ughhhh.
boo, that is a weird one and doesn't make much sense.
I would check all of the clamps/junctions on the high pressure side inside the tank. Also confirm the power wires to the pump are staying put.
Thanks, Just venting......;
Busy for about a week. I'll get to iy asap
I realize this is an old post but I've just had my second (stock) kickstand break and don't really want to spend money on another stocker.
Several posts indicate that there isn't one available from Promoto Billet, however post 7180 from @Thumperama indicates he's installed them. There's even another post with a photo of one mounted.
If anyone can tell me which part number fits it would be much appreciated.
@mattadv93 appears to have one mounted...
Back order? Part number #PMB-01-8001
Probably out of production and difficult to find.
I would go here first as well. I've read more than one account of where a fuel line leak inside the tank resulted in low pressure to the injector and gave the symptoms of a failing fuel pump.
As Huskyfatman said above, PMB part number PMB-01-8001 is the one.
I have one bolted on now. They are very high quality and beefy compared to the stock. My only complaint so far is that they are a little long and stand the bike too upright. Optimally, be prepared to cut it down about an inch and then re-weld the aluminum the foot back on.
Just wondering, how in the hell do you break a kickstand (two)? I've never broken a kickstand on a motorcycle.