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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by KayaKTM, Nov 22, 2010.
Skip the hassle with these AOMC folk, order from Munn Racing.
brand new plastics? Now you need a better color scheme for your Cycra handguard plastics.
This is the nicest 2011 FE450 I've seen in a while. All the good stuff. Someone buy it!
Couple comments on your filter comments. I don't know the filtration level of the Mahle filter, but it's probably not anywhere near 10 or even 20 µm like the cone (20) and ZipTy (10) filters, so you aren't collecting any of those size particles and those are the ones that will get into and clog the injector. Supposedly the injector holes are 12 µm. I'd "assume" that KTM engineers probably know the filtration level of the Mahle filters and that's why they originally spec'd a 10 µm cone filter, because the paper filter doesn't filter fine enough, which is why your cone and ZipTy clogged up so rapidly (or maybe you had removed Mahle?).
Here's my experience with the Zip Ty and cone filters and Mahle filters.
60 hours, I put in a new Mahle filter (didn't know about the cone filter at the time), original was probably not as dirty as your pic.
190 hours, put in a second new Mahle, along with ZipTy and new cone filter (by then I learned about it, removed it at the injector and found the mesh was more than 50% blocked with "gunk" not actual particles.). Backflushed injector. I did all that because the cone filter had finally clogged up enough to really notice.
250 hours, replaced inline cone filter in ZipTy. Didn't even look at the ZipTy, forgot to inspect cone filter.
308 hours replaced the cone filter, looked at under 15x hand lens, barely a handful of particles in it. decided 60 hour change is not necessary, didn't do anything else either.
325 hours and counting.
I'd suggest you might have "something else" going on if you are getting that much debris in your gas...
Interesting that car fuel filter aren't really that big, and most people don't even know they are in their fuel system (how many manuals list them as a service item?), never change them, and they will last for 100-200K+ miles and 1000s of hours.
Cafeful with the Mahle filter outside the tank. That seam is very weak and can fracture if something hits it hard enough. Likely best to grab one with a metal housing if you want to run it there.
So what's the right filter to run outside the tank?
people have used the can-am 709-000-100 in the past
The gearing question comes up from time to time so I thought I'd post this here. It may have been linked before, but to anyone that hasn't seen it this should get you close on rpm's at a given speed.
is there enough charging system for me to get away with running heated grips?
BD XL Pro headlight (40W), LED taillight (I can't imagine anyone runs the stock one).
Full heated gear would be nice but I'm guessing that'd be pushing it a little far.
The altenator puts out 210w. I'm sure you'd be fine.
Can-am, it's metal and rated for similar injectors as our bikes. Google can-am filter Husaberg. I can't remember the part number.
But keep in mind, running a fuel filter down stream of fuel presure regulator means lower pressure than intended (51 psi) behind the injector , resulting in leaner hotter mixture, specially as the filter gets old.
yesterday was a pretty good dual sport ride. mostly forest service roads rather than real trails, but the 570 is on the big/heavy side for real trails - especially at my skill level. Some of them were in significantly worse shape than I expected for forest service roads.
I noticed that my countershaft seal seems to be leaking some. My chain isn't too tight, so it isn't that. Here's hoping it's just a case of needing a new seal, it's a high mile/hour bike.
This is what you want. It actually has a new spacer that helps cover the seal, and a new o-ring that's a little thicker for better seal too. Easy enough to replace.
Counter Shaft Rep.Kit 4 Stroke, KTM part number 00050000941, about $24.
I don't have any spray visible from the bolt, but I have an oil leak from that location visible on cases etc. It sure looks to be coming from countershaft rather than shifter.
99% you are right..
Thanks. Ordered the kit, hope it does the trick. Should be able to get it on before I next have time to ride next weekend.
As far as replacement goes, will oil dump out when I remove the seal etc? Trying to figure out if I can do it on the kickstand or whether I need to lean it over on it's side.
A weak counter shaft washer has also been identified as the culprit of oil leaks in that area. The oem cs washer is a belleville spring of sorts and it seems to lose its...spring...after time. The Dirt Tricks washer is supposed to keep more pressure on the counter shaft sprocket to help prevent oil leaks from the cs seal.
I'll start off just doing the kit, and using a new bolt and washer whenever I change the sprocket. I've heard of the DT washer cracking.
I've read a few reports of them cracking also. I've changed my cs sprocket a few times so I picked one up to try...no cracks thus far.
I just wanted to point out the potential for the cs washer to be a contributing factor with counter shaft oil leaks. Whether it's an oem washer or an aftermarket one it has to be able to apply pressure to the sprocket.