Husky TR650 - New Owners Stupid Questions Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by HighFive, Dec 23, 2012.

  1. RidingDonkeys

    RidingDonkeys Purveyor of Awesome Supporter

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    Not on me. I just landed in DC and my Husky is still a few weeks from getting here. I did notice that LEDs did not have any effect on the computer as some had indicated. Apparently some LEDs make the computer think a bulb is out, causing a fast flash.
  2. duibhceK

    duibhceK duibhce Kaelann

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    It depends on how the relays works. If it's a resistance based relays, LEDs will blink faster than original bulbs. Unless inline resistors are used for the LEDs, but that largely annuls the main benefit of LEDs: saving energy.
    Relays that use other methods don't have this side-effect.
  3. Ogre_fl

    Ogre_fl Long timer

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    I need to take mine apart.
    I know ours cross reference with the fronts on BMW R nine T.
    Both our parts manal and the BMW' R nine T show a single part signal with a wire and plug.

    I cant find any reasonably priced chinese ones for the R nine T.
    There are however many similar looking ones online for some of the other BMW models that don't show the wire.
    I believe you actually hook those up at/inside the signal vs plugging in back at the harness somewhere.

    @RidingDonkeys, you have had them apart, right?
    Are there 2 flat connectors inside the signal?

    I honestly don't care if they are LED and just as soon use something like these if compatible:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turn-Signa...a=1&pg=2054436&_trksid=p2054436.c100039.m2059

    [​IMG]
  4. OConnor

    OConnor Bad juju

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    Aren't they real similar to the KTM blinkers?
  5. RidingDonkeys

    RidingDonkeys Purveyor of Awesome Supporter

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    @Ogre_fl I am working from memory, and that is fading. Too many bikes in the garage. I think I recall that our signals have a plug, but I can't say for certain. If my bike were here, I'd just go out and check. You shouldn't need that plug though. Just clip it, connect the wires directly, and heat shrink it.
  6. Ogre_fl

    Ogre_fl Long timer

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    Thanks.

    I opened them up last night when I got home.
    There are 2 flat connectors inside the signal, this appears to be the same as on the G650GS (and numerous others).

    I dont know why they are speced different than the other BMW bikes and the same as R nine T.
    I can only guess it has to do with the wire length or perhaps the plug.

    I ordered a set of the cheepo ones.
    I will try pull my existing wires out and connect at the signal like noted in this video.

  7. RidingDonkeys

    RidingDonkeys Purveyor of Awesome Supporter

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    Finding the bulb for our signals was kind of a pain too. The stock size is not readily available in the United States. So you may find the changing the signals entirely will give you more options for easy replacement bulbs. Or if you went LED, then you won't ever have to worry about replacing.
  8. Stuntdude

    Stuntdude The Big "C"

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    Ogre_fl likes this.
  9. Chuffa

    Chuffa TR650 Terra

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    At 90k km and after using a bit of oil for the last 60k km, I'm about the get the rings done. I've got most of the gaskets etc and water pump impellor but I'm wondering about the clutch basket. I know Rotaxes have a reputation for noisy gearboxes, but over the last couple of months the noise has been increasing up the range. I'm now getting a "down into 1st" clunk on most changes up & down to 4th. Any advice to look at before or while the engine is split?
  10. Sparqq

    Sparqq Been here awhile

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    Check your clutch cable and it's adjustment. I've recently replaced my clutch cable on my f650gs after 100k km and it improve changing gears massively.
    Chuffa likes this.
  11. reini1982

    reini1982 n00b

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    Location:
    Austria (not Australia)
    Im just doing my first maintainance and some modifications (I will show pictures as soon as finished) on my Terra.
    Today, I wanted to do a coolant replacement, so I tried to drain (as described at official workshop manual) at the defined screw at the water pump.
    Altough open cap of the expansion tank and open radiator cap, only a few drops of cooling water came out.
    Do I forgot something or in other words do the workshop manual forgot something?
    Thank you in advance.

    FYI:
    10000km (approx. 6200miles)
    never replaced yet
    My Terra is from 2013 (bought 2019)
  12. danketchpel

    danketchpel Long timer

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    Looking at the photo you posted, they do make a nice pair!

    I must say the RE 650 twin is a pretty interesting bike. I hope they sell a ton of them. I'd consider one if I didn't have a Bonneville T-120. Though my heart still yearns for a modern Moto Guzzi 850 T3 retro bike. The V7III classic almost does it but not quite, too small.
  13. danketchpel

    danketchpel Long timer

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    How much effort was it to swap on the DRZ400-SM forks?
  14. Stuntdude

    Stuntdude The Big "C"

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    I and a lot of owners have had this issue. Black crud in the drain. I dropped the hoses, drain bolt out and flushed water threw. Now mine flows out of the drain when you let air in.
    At 10k I switched to a clear coolant (now 78k) and was surprised to see my coolant going a dark grey (with fleck) even after the second change! Those running fancy colour coolants may not see this
    happening and it does not effect the operation. I could be wrong but I put it down too poor manufacturing technique. Where they spray paint the core before they attach the tanks.
    The crud is pulverised paint overspray fragments that have settled in the drain. :shog

    Anyway be sure to purge any air out.
  15. mysery1

    mysery1 Adventurer

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    Wasn't to bad. I started a thread over at Cafe Husky in the TR650 sub forum. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/been-kinda-quite-here-so.89598/ . Still looking for brake options. I either need to find a 310mm or 320mm rotor that will fit the terra hub or someway to relocate the caliber.
  16. Pacificus

    Pacificus Been here awhile

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    I'm about to install some K60 Scouts to both rims. I haven't changed a tyre in years, and never to the Terra. I stopped because I would always puncture the tube. Any tips, please? I have watched a lot of YouTube videos on this. Any thoughts on the ziptie method?

    What pressures should I use? Half my riding is without much of a load, but the other half I have about 100 kg of cargo on the back. My previous tyres were Mitaz 07s. The front was 2 bar, and the rear 2.5 bar. I;ve been told for the front, at least, that 2 bar is too low a pressure.

    Balancing: any tips, please, especially on which size adhesive weights to use? I've never balanced a tyre in my life. How critical is it for the Terra? I on occasion exceed 100 mph (111 mph being the maximum I've reached, according to the speedo).

    Thanks.
  17. RidingDonkeys

    RidingDonkeys Purveyor of Awesome Supporter

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    First, you'll need a few Red Bulls. The K60 rear is the hardest tire to change that I've ever encountered. Going on isn't as bad as coming off, but breaking that bead will be a test of your patience. This tire is why I own a MotionPro bead breaking tool.

    Put a little air in your tube before installing to avoid pinches. Get your stem locked. A little soapy water will go a long way to get it things on without pinching the tube.

    As for balancing, I've run Dyna Beads for years and never had a balancing issue. Pour them in, and go riding. That simple.
    glitch_oz likes this.
  18. Pacificus

    Pacificus Been here awhile

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    Thanks. I hadn't heard of Dyna Beads, so will look into them.

    I just half-changed the front tyre. two problems: I punctured the inner-tube, and I just cannot get that last lip of the bead/tyre behind the rim wall.

    My tyre levers might be too thick for this job, I don't know. They are not the spoon type. But, even so, that last bit of the tyre to go behind the rim wall is a SoB! I haven't any zip ties big enough for this job, and I don't really know if they would be much help. I'm at a bit of a loss, really. I also think I've scratched the hell out of the rim, but it's been taking me so long it's now dark outside so I am yet to look. I really despise this wheel design. I always have. People on YouTube make it look so easy to change a tyre. I just end up destroying everything.
  19. duibhceK

    duibhceK duibhce Kaelann

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    The trick is to make sure that the rest of the tyre is not seated on the rim, but pressed as deeply as possible into the well of the rim. Use c-clamps if necessary to press the tyre togetherso it stays nicely in the well. Especially at the opposite side of where your last lip is. Then use soapy water to slowly slide that last part over. Try to not let it "pop" on, that causes snakebites in the tube. If you have to use a lot of force, take a step back and make sure the tyre is nice and deep inside the well.
  20. Pacificus

    Pacificus Been here awhile

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    Thanks. After a tremendous effort, I was able to mount the tyre. I pray to the gods of rubber that it's still inflated in the morning. I fixed the inner-tube with several patches.

    I am under-equipped. I'll have to look into getting those clamps you mentioned for next time. I started on the rear tyre, but breaking the bead proved beyond me for now so I will revisit it a little later on.