Husqvarna 701 Super Moto and Enduro!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Dozer720, Aug 13, 2015.

  1. NoelJ

    NoelJ Long timer

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    I like the width of the XL, it actually creates a little spot I can lock into easily with my legs, sort of like Steg Pegz but padded!
  2. DIYPSCM

    DIYPSCM Been here awhile Supporter

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    Ello ello ello, what ave we ere then? :nod

    20210816_184816.jpg 20210816_184850.jpg
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  3. NoelJ

    NoelJ Long timer

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    A picture of a tiny little stamping press on wheels, with some kind of a motorcycle dash and screen in the picture!?
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  4. Thomas-G

    Thomas-G Been here awhile

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    hi everyone i owned aprilia's and they are very good motorcycles.

    The wight is dry as much as my Husky fueled up with 27,5 liters of gas. See pic:
    20210813_200414.jpg

    But i agree, it could mix up the adventure world a bit and bring at least more brands on single tacks.
    For me, every well designed adventure product is a plus.


    Adventure biking needs this.


    Greetings from swizzerland

    Thomas
    Jan from Finland likes this.
  5. Doc Sarvis

    Doc Sarvis Advent-ia before dementia Supporter

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  6. hardhat

    hardhat Been here awhile Super Supporter

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    Lots written on this but here's my summary (hope it is helpful.)
    1. Have a 2018 701 (and a 2011 530 and a 2006 950.) All great bikes. Horses for courses. Much prefer the 701 for anything longer than a day. The 530 is 100lbs lighter and more fun on difficult trails, especially if unloaded.
    2. i have a 29" inseam and weigh 200lb w gear. Had a great local shop (ESP suspension in La Crescenta) lower the suspension 1.25", put in correct springs, PUT IN AN XTRIG for pre-load adjustment, and set it up for me. If you have a shop shorten the suspension, i think it will impact preload, so it would be helpful to work sith someone that really understands this.
    3. Night and day performance gain for me. I dont do air, so losing 1.25" and gaining better ground control was worth it. A shop will give a much better result than a lowering link (but will be more costly).
    4. be sure you set the compression/rebound correctly. THEY WILL BE DIFFERENT LOADED AND UNLOADED! I found that a softer compression than expected gave me much more control. Since i dont jump the bike, i still pretty much never bottom out.
    5. be sure you set sag correctly. IT WILL BE DIFFERENT FOR LOADED AND UNLOADED. This is especially true since you are pretty light (and I hate you for it...) and thus adding 40lbs of gear is a pretty big % of your weight. The sag will change an inch or more when you remove the load.
    6. The XTRIG device allows you to easily change pre-load and sag with cordless drill and an 8mm socket. I carry a "speed wrench" on trips so i can reset sag on a trip if we decide to do an unloaded day ride. Helps a LOT. (It takes like 24 turns per shock revolution so 200+ turns to adust from loaded to unloaded.)
    7. I have the touring Seat Concepts seat. very much like the wider version. it remains pretty narrow in the front, so not much of a hit on clearance.
    8. I also have a REKLUSE clutch which helps a lot when managing difficult terrain with the loaded bike. No more stalls on upgrades with an extra 50 lbs of crap. Costly, but very worth it to me.
    9. Added a Scotts stablizer. Very helpful on rocky or sandy trails, especailly when the bike is loaded. Again, costly, but cheaper than a trip to ER.
    9. I think the 701/690 is hands down the best "true" adv bike around - especially for someone that is NOT: 6ft tall, 35 years old, can bench 300, or is a retired pro rider. It is 100+lbs lighter than just about anything else, has 2X power of the KLR or DR650, and stock is pretty well equipped. With the right gearing, you can cruise at 80 on the highway, manage most BDR type trails, and pick it up by yourself (loaded in the dirt on the trail... not that you would ever fall...)

    Hope this helps and appologize if it is overly basic, but folks of many different knowledge levels read these things. I've learned so much from the folks on this website, it this info helps in your decision process, then my work here is done...
    JimmyMojave, KiwiPewe, willh and 5 others like this.
  7. DIYPSCM

    DIYPSCM Been here awhile Supporter

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    Plus an Amazon Chinese clip on.
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  8. Doc Sarvis

    Doc Sarvis Advent-ia before dementia Supporter

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    This mating dance is wearing me out- where did we get thee?
  9. nsrrider

    nsrrider Been here awhile

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    Your post could have written by me. Just a couple comments from my experience (2020 LR)...the total weight of my multi-day camp gear (including about 8 litres of water) is about 70 LBS. I carry a water filter but it's not always possible to camp near water. I just got back from a multi-day camp using new Dunlop Trail Mission tires (140 rear). Tires (and loaded bike) REALLY suck in sand (to be expected I guess)....great on asphalt. The rear tire is incredibly heavy and stiff---a flat repair on the trail might well be impossible. It's so stiff however, that I suspect you could ride it deflated. I did notice a negative impact on acceleration with that super heavy rear tire. I also highly recommend the Rekluse on this bike--money well spent. I sprang $$ for a Cumpan instrument---really pleased with it-works perfect. Now if I can get rid of some of the bar vibes! Just random rambling.
    mokibear likes this.
  10. ktmrandy

    ktmrandy Been here awhile

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    Where did you get the Cumpan? They have not responded to any of my emails.
  11. hardhat

    hardhat Been here awhile Super Supporter

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    Bar vibes - look into fasstflex. i have it and it is outstanding. Add in their bar weights and you will see a significant reduction in vibes on your hands. Again, sort of costly for what it is, but big improvement in experinece. GAS- I use the rade garage inernal. 1.5 gal so not as much as the LR, but much less weight. PLUS, the bike stays pretty thin so things tend to not get busted when i have a tip-over. Tires - ive had very good luck with motoz rallz's. best all around ive used and run for 5Kmi on the rear on the 701. A bit vibey on teh ashpalt as the blocks are sort of big, but killer in sand, rocks, etc.
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  12. nsrrider

    nsrrider Been here awhile

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    hmmmm....directly from them.....not sure if anybody else carry's it....
  13. nsrrider

    nsrrider Been here awhile

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    On the Fasst flex....do you have to use their bark busters? and is there enuf room on the left bar for much in the way of switches? On my left side the LR also has the front/back tank switch.....and the OEM grip heater control is also on the left side....is there room for all that? Are the bar end weights on the end of the bars or inside the bars? thx for your time!
  14. BrittC

    BrittC Been here awhile Supporter

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    Where did you source your windscreen?
  15. Doc Sarvis

    Doc Sarvis Advent-ia before dementia Supporter

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    Its really important that you use the BRB or Tusk 'dogbones' to allow the handguards to articulate with the pivot on the Fasst's. Reflex handguards have the piece of wire rope to do the same thing.
    I bought the Adventure 10 degree version which has the extra room to add various gadgets. I have tried to convince Fasst to pre tap the bar ends for their inserts to no avail. You have to do it yourself. Trying to do it with a crescent wrench like they recommend is kinda dumb. You really should use a tap handle and proper cutting/tapping fluid. Its a pretty heavy cut and you really need to line it up.

    Between the two though the vibes are pretty non existent at certain RPM's I find 55-70 on the road to be the real sweet spot. I have no idea what the motor is turning but I'm sure some one does.
    willh likes this.
  16. FLEUP

    FLEUP Adventurer

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    I'm agree !

    the solution is easy....to upgrade a 690 you have to keep only the engine , and to fix it into a 530EXC
    +11.5L fuel tank + very confortable seat + upgraded suspensions.... = the best trail bike ever

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    perhaps..... :rofl
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  17. DIYPSCM

    DIYPSCM Been here awhile Supporter

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    As I said the clip on is from Amazon, easy to find... about $32.

    The windshield is indeed the new Husky factory model 27108908044. I looked & looked & it seems these are NOT sold in the US. Only thing I can think of is maybe they're not DOT approved?

    Searching around the net I finally found stock in an English readable website in the UK... https://huskymoto.co.uk/ About $75 USD plus $25 shipping to Kalifornia.

    The windshield alone works good, keeps the blast off the torso while still having the head in clean air. No buffeting. The feeling on the face/head is like standing on the pegs with no windshield. The shield has a forward curve to it & looks nice...

    20210814_172006.jpg

    20210814_171835.jpg

    20210816_184816.jpg

    The built in standoffs allow room for the cables to live although they'll certainly rub a mark in time.


    I got the clip on 'cause it fits right into the little recess in the shield & actually doesn't look completely like ass. It allows to direct windflow higher... I can hold my hand up where a helmet peak would be if I had one & it's stable.

    BUT...

    The clipon is a bit too much weight flopping around on a shield rubber mounted to a plastic mask which is bolted to a plastic.... on & on. It would probably be OK on the street but I fear short lived in the dirt. If it's to stay I need to make a support of some sort.... not rocket science.

    Cheers :beer
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  18. ktmrandy

    ktmrandy Been here awhile

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    I have the old enduro flex bars with limited space. I put the gas tank switch on the Lynx dash and ran bolts through the bars rather then tapping the bars for the hand guards.

    Attached Files:

    nsrrider likes this.
  19. mokibear

    mokibear Been here awhile

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    Has anyone ever encountered having to bleed brakes on the road? If so would not a small pliers work?
  20. nsrrider

    nsrrider Been here awhile

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    nice work...