Husqvarna FE501S & FE350S

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by trailrider383, Sep 11, 2014.

  1. Snake Oiler

    Snake Oiler If the world didn't suck, we would all fall off

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    Ok here's a age old question. "OIL". Husqvarna manual says to use the belray 10/50 in with the classification SN. The last few quarts cost me close to$25/qt. That's starting to get steep in my opinion. So I was looking online for the same and I found it cheaper, but the bottle has a SM class not the SN. Other than that it seems to be the same. Does anyone have a good place to get the Belray or what are you folks running in the 2017+ models?

    I got back from a trip around the North Rim of the Grand canyon Sunday and was looking at some of my notes. I put 1200 miles and 32 hours on the gal. Avg just about 61.4 mpg, changed oil today looked a little dirty, but really not as bad as I thought it would be. Didn't use any oil on the trip neither. It was my first time really riding after the emission delete and Dobeck tuner install, wow what a difference. I noticed it from the first twist of the throttle. Not that's just the way the tuner came out of the box, so I felt the mid range to be a little lag when needing to pass so I think I could work on that a little.

    Sorry for being long winded, but one more question. I Believe I need to check out the valves. Now I've never fiddled with anything like these machines. So bare with me alittle. All the videos I could find were for the orange 500, is the procedure for the 501 the same? Do I need anything special, such as longer feeler gauges or other tools? Hopefully they will be good or I'll be back with more dumbass questions.

    My advertisement for Husqvarna IMG_20190930_132956276_HDR.jpg
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  2. Grayjet

    Grayjet Ride on! Supporter

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    All right, someone out there has a fantastic way to clean the white plastic side panels where boots grind dirt into them. Please enlighten me. Ive tried Plexus with plenty of elbow grease, but that doesn't help in the boot areas.

    While I'm at it, what's the best way to clean the aluminum swingarms?

    Cheers,
    Lance
  3. Dan950ser

    Dan950ser Two Wheeled Addict

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    Mr. Clean Magic Erasers!
  4. Nowwhat

    Nowwhat I'll Go Second... Super Supporter

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    This
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  5. Snake Oiler

    Snake Oiler If the world didn't suck, we would all fall off

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    Well looks like I have one valve out of tolerance. This should be fun, I've never messed with valve work before. Is a shame too I'm going to have to buy a shim set it looks like. IMG_20191009_141719728.jpg

    Peace
  6. aai

    aai Adventurer

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    Go Jo Hand cleaner absolute satisfaction, gets into the fine scratches
  7. Hertz13

    Hertz13 Been here awhile Supporter

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    a whole shim set is a total waste of money unless you have a bunch of bikes that use that size or are doing work on a lot of bikes.

    Pull out the one you need to adjust, measure it, and order a new shim.
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  8. Snake Oiler

    Snake Oiler If the world didn't suck, we would all fall off

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    Sounds good to me. Ok since I've got a larger gap than spec, I need a thicker shim right? And in my case again , from the photo I should get one .005" thicker? Will it change any of the other ones when I do that?
  9. backpain

    backpain Been here awhile

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    Brake cleaner/contact cleaner and a soft rag (even paper towel/paper shop towel) will remove virtually any dirt/stains. Then, when you wipe back over it with a dirty rag, you will see where the texture is the problem (which is where Magic Erasers excel). Smooth out the texture (scratches, etc) and the pieces will hold less dirt/wipe off easier. I'm too lazy to polish the plastics, so I keep using brake cleaner on the difficult sections. It will eat some types of decal ink, though.

    X3 on Magic Eraser for the textured metal, for sure.
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  10. Nowwhat

    Nowwhat I'll Go Second... Super Supporter

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    The 2020 build is progressing nicely

    592349476.jpg
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  11. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling DNF

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    Yes, yes and no, in that order.
  12. Hertz13

    Hertz13 Been here awhile Supporter

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    if you want to get that 0.010” to 0.005” then yes, go 0.005” thicker. You’ll have to take the one you want to change out and measure what it is then add 0.005”.

    I like to use metric feelers and measure in metric because that’s what the spec is and that’s what the shims are sold as. Sure you can convert but you’ll want to use a mic to measure the shim
  13. Snake Oiler

    Snake Oiler If the world didn't suck, we would all fall off

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    Thanks I'm looking for new shim now. I need a 2.260mm it looks like the stock was 2.1336 plus my .005" hopefully I did my math right
  14. Sidehil

    Sidehil On any Sunday Supporter

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    but they are a nice box of washers:) too or rivet backers for sled parts:)
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  15. Snake Oiler

    Snake Oiler If the world didn't suck, we would all fall off

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    Yeah I'm sure metic feelers would be best. But I don't have any right now. I used dial calipers to measure the shim and came up with .084 which converts to 2.1336mm I can go to .090 which is 2.286. RM has shim sizes 2.24 and 2.28mm so I'll get one each. Hopefully the 2.28 works that would be good I think
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  16. Sidehil

    Sidehil On any Sunday Supporter

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    I tried magic eraser but did not seam to work on my latest crash:) I can ride a dirt bike better than I can walk......

    Attached Files:

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  17. Snake Oiler

    Snake Oiler If the world didn't suck, we would all fall off

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    Ouch that one hurt.

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  18. Snake Oiler

    Snake Oiler If the world didn't suck, we would all fall off

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    Almost erased the whole front end
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  19. Sidehil

    Sidehil On any Sunday Supporter

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    Guy pulled a u turn and I did not have but a Mili second to respond.... lucky like the guy that fell into the river on the TPI thread, I’m hard to kill......
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  20. Nowwhat

    Nowwhat I'll Go Second... Super Supporter

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    You need to spray Simple Green with a little Wd40 on the magic eraser first and all that will buff out...




    Glad you are ok.....wow
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