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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by trailrider383, Sep 11, 2014.
Vortex is supposedly shipping the 2020 501 ECUs Friday
5 kg (11 lbs) on the nose partially worn. A fresh one would be even more.
The lock nut for my rear brake adjusting screw came loose and my rear brake fried pretty bad. Put in new pads and rotor, but now I have very little rear brake action, is it time to rebuild or replce the caliper? 2015 501S
I had the same thing happen to me except I did not fry my brakes or rotor. I now clean my parts very well not just wipe them off before I Loctite them.
I want to weigh the GoldenTyre version when I remove it and compare.
How did the caliper piston move when you did the pad service? easily? stuck? Might just need a complete fluid change and bleed before going further. I'd start there.
Before you pull the trigger on that battery, you may want to check out the Earth X units. Made in the USA and very robust. I've bought my last Shorai....
Yes please do and be sure to share. After all I heard of fatty tires being the bomb I really found the Shinko to be a letdown. At speed you could move the bars a few inches and nothing would happen, just a bunch of sidewall flex. It took away all the feel in the front end. I run UHD tubes at around 12psi but then had to crank up the pressure to get rid of the marsh mellow handling feeling.
I was reading up on those also. This is my 3rd Shorai on different bikes and SXS and haven’t had a reason to switch brands yet. Earth X is definitely my option from what I’ve read.
I’ve tested and weighed both - the GT is almost a full 2 pounds lighter.
That is a very significant unsprung weight difference. I have been trying to decide between the two of them and I guess that decides it for me.
Changed fluid several times, pistons move but not sure if they move like they should, probably time to rebuild or replace.
Only one piston on the rear caliper.
Looks like the parts are available. The excessive heat might have just ruined the sealing rings (#2) to hold pressure or the piston is
distorted (#5) . You could pull them from the caliper and examine for issues.
Thinking back a few years... I remember a friend that had a similar issue and if I remember correctly we replaced the sealing rings to resolve the poor braking.
Yeah, you can feel it. Also, I got about 40 hours out of the Shinko before side knobs started to rip off. The GT is at 45 hours now with so little wear that I expect 70-80 hours out of it. It's worth the extra $30.
Do you recall the weight of the GT? and was it new or used when weighed? I won't be removing my front GT for a while since we are in the off-season here in the upper midwest..
Have ~3500 miles on my front GT (primarily easy dual sport use). Might have worn in the center quicker (scalloped) since I used low pressures in the rocks/roots/mud and wasn't always able to air up on short pavement sections at speeds above 65 mph.
Good data on the GT vs Shinko, thanks bros. 2lbs, with the centrifugal factor is more like 8 or 10 once the wheel is spinning. Not ideal in fast, tight conditions with a lot of directional transitions. The business case for a couple wheelsets....
The GT was new, 8 lb, 12.8oz.
The Shinko was used 40hrs, 10 lb, 8oz. (and missing a few side knobs).
Many thanks, looks like the way to go!
Anyone tried the Tusk shift lever? I thought I read the Hammerhead levers strip easily. Wondering if the Tusk is the same. For $19, it's a steal compared to 75+ for OEM.
@Fast1 i have an older version of this tire pump for airing back up after the trail. Ive been happy with it.