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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by trailrider383, Sep 11, 2014.
Bingo it’s a second OBD2 connector. Leave it alone with the cap on it.
The two plugs are the same connector type?
Dan, do you know this to be a fact, or are you guessing? This connector is a completely different size than the diagnostic connection under the seat. See pics below.
Taken from a discussion about the TPI bikes on ktmtalk.
“They are needed for the diagnostic interface (under the seat) and the 2020 EXC TPIs actually have full CAN-Bus access including power and "wake up" on a separate plug behind the headlight. Don't know why the XC would only have the CAN-Bus lines (blue/white, blue/black), but maybe KTM has something in store where this would be needed. Traction control maybe? At the same time the CAN-Bus has some specifics regarding topographic requirements so it may have to do with line length or whatever?
Usually red/white is DC directly from the battery, yellow/blue DC switched by the main relay, yellow is DC switched by a secondary relay for lights.”
“Just to make sure, in the pictures it is hard to clearly determine: is the color of the line "yellow" or "orange"? Both are 12V DC, "orange" is main power (which also powers the ECU and all sensors, 10A fuse), "yellow" would be an extra circuit for lights and such. I've been running LED lights from "orange" no issues, but if you blow the fuse the bike stops. "Yellow" has a dedicated fuse which is independent.
Red/White, DC directly from the battery, no relay, fuse sits in the start relay.
Black/White (wake up) to ground will activate the main relay regardless of the engine running and power the "orange" line.”
Here’s a link to the thread. https://ktmtalk.com/showthread.php?...re-d-they-hide-the-wires-for-the-lights/page3
I don’t have a 2020 FE but have seen these connectors on the new TPI bikes and im assuming ktm/husky did it on all the enduro models that are injected. Hope this helps.
That's awesome. Thanks Dan!
Anyone using Mako 360 bar clamps on their 501?
I cant find a listing for a '20 FE501s, i do see '19 501
I swapped all my old clamps from my '17 500 EXC to my '20 FE 501 so I suspect they are all the same from '17-'20 for either KTM or Husky.
I installed the metal CPC quick disconnect - ordered it from the Beemer boneyard.
Today I rode the 501 for the first time on gravel, mud and ice-snow mix roads and for the first time at full throttle.
What a machine! It’s a monster and the easiest bike I’ve ever ridden off-pavement. ( I usually ride a GSA R1200 ).
I now know why it’s used as a desert racer - it flies on gravel roads.
I love the Scotts steering dampener - the bike feels like it’s on rails.
Nice bike! You’re going to be really impressed once you try it without the crappy TKC80’s.
Do the OEM connectors have a habit of leaking or breaking? Or was this more of a want than a need? I'm all for farkles but I just about spit out my coffee when I saw the price tag on those CPC connectors.
Never had one leak in over 10 years except when the o-ring has been nicked. And that is through dozens of bikes and hundreds of removals of tanks.
Ditto. It's "plastic anxiety". Or maybe plastic PTSD. I have a little of it; if I was ten years older it'd be worse.
To be honest I was initially a bit gun shy because of the price - I saw Josh on MVDBR ( his broke on a ride)and Adam Chandler promote the product on YouTube.
Then while installing the new fuel line on my IMS 3.0 Gal tank I broke the plastic barb trying to cut the Oettinger clamp -and there you go...
So impressed with Oberon. Ordered the CLU 1000 Clutch Slave Wed afternoon. It arrived via Fed Ex today, Fri 10:30 am!
Mine broke 12 miles from Staging high on the mountain. This is a serious problem as the line runs at 50 psi. I replaced my factory clamps with field serviceable FI clamps and now carry an extra dry break fuel fitting and extra fuel line. Its not like a carb bike with gravity feed that you can tape up.
Being that i'm on my first FI bike, I have to ask: Would a brass male <-> male barb fitting and some quality hose clamps not be able to fill the gap in a pinch? Or, worst case scenario, enough hose to run the whole line without a QD fitting in the middle?
I repaired the OEM CPC as a temporary fix until the metal one arrived-so I can go ride. I used just crazy glue but it did not even withstand the re-assembly process.
Then I used an old RC modellers trick and sprinkled some baking-soda powder on the crazy glue and it makes a super hard buildup on the joint and accelerates the curing process.
It’s been holding up pretty well but definitely a temporary fix.
Carrying a tube of crazy glue and small packet of baking soda might be a “get to safety solution” fixing critical plastic parts.
The length of hose is a good idea. If you have not replaced your tank a couple of clamps too.
On another note I spent the afternoon disassembling the linkage and greasing all the bearings including the swingarm. I now wish I had a PDS lol. It is quite scary how little grease is used from the factory. Also a good tip lesson I learned the hard way is to remove the wheel adjuster bolts and liberally applied anti seize. Oh and the Ryan F9 tip: I am soaking the chain in gear oil overnight..