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Husqvarna FE501S & FE350S

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by trailrider383, Sep 11, 2014.

  1. avc8130

    avc8130 Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,702
    Location:
    Northern NJ
    G=F,

    Do you "miss" the clutch lever or foot operated rear brake?

    I really want a LHRB setup, and I think I'll be adding a Rekluse very soon. Doing what you did is definitely easiest/simplest.

    Are you using the stock clutch master as the LHRB with just a new brake line straight to the caliper?

    ac
  2. KClean

    KClean n00b

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2014
    Oddometer:
    8
    Location:
    Lees Summit
    Picked up my new FE 501 s a few days ago and have attached pictures. I was originally going to purchase the non s version but after riding both I liked the 501 s better for some reason. I have removed all the smog equipment and am looking forward to getting some ride time very soon!!lllll
  3. KClean

    KClean n00b

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2014
    Oddometer:
    8
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    Lees Summit
    Opps! Picture was too big!

    Attached Files:

  4. KClean

    KClean n00b

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2014
    Oddometer:
    8
    Location:
    Lees Summit
    One more!!

    Attached Files:

  5. Dudsamoto

    Dudsamoto Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2002
    Oddometer:
    901
    Location:
    Idaho Panhandle
    They sure are purrrty!
    My wife thinks my 501 is the best looking bike iv'e ever had! Seems like everyone that see's it comments on the looks.
  6. Dudsamoto

    Dudsamoto Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2002
    Oddometer:
    901
    Location:
    Idaho Panhandle
    All right, since I seem to be the only one who has one of these new Husky's I guess I'll keep this thread alive with an update.
    Suspension is off and at Zip Ty Racing in Hesperia for Ty Davis's CS4 treatment. Apparently he does a very similar valving change to what Kreft and others have come up with. Can't wait to ride the bike with suspension set up for my weight and riding conditions.
    While I was there I picked up a few goodies, foremost Zip Ty's really clean 10 micron filter. I like this better than the Golan as it simply replaces the stock cone filter housing. Much tidier install,IMO.

    Stock filter housing
    [​IMG]

    Zip Ty unit
    [​IMG]

    Kudos to Zip Ty for supplying an OEM quality "Oetiker style" stepless pinch clamp with the unit, very clean, no hokey hardware store screw clamp here.
    [​IMG]

    The "dial in" phase continues.........
  7. octagonpilot

    octagonpilot _________________

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Oddometer:
    484
    Location:
    36.0N 115.08W
    Sold my TE610 recently and picked up a new 501s. so far I've dismogged it, regeared to 13/50 and set the sag. Winter here, so haven't even started it yet.

    planning on a zipty fuel filter and the SS oil filter they offer.

    For those who have done it, whats the easiest way to remove the screen/baffle dealio from the end cap?

    Here's how it sits...
    [​IMG]
  8. Dudsamoto

    Dudsamoto Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2002
    Oddometer:
    901
    Location:
    Idaho Panhandle
    I opted for the FMF 4.1 slip on for a couple reasons.
    One, it was suggested to me that the bike really needed a free flowing can with the Euro map installed.
    Second, I wanted to retain the stock can in case Cali ever starts inspection with registration. They have said it's coming for all vehicles.

    I would HIGHLY suggest the Euro map...runs cooler,starts instantly,more power. Bike feels like it's "Jetted" perfect.

    Another option is to change the end cap with an aftermarket like the Pro Moto Billet or the stock end cap from the off road only FE.

    If I were going to remove that screen I think I would drill a 1/2 inch hole in the middle, then clean up the rest with a die grinder. If you finish with a sanding drum or flap disk you should have a clean "stock" looking finish.

    This is how I removed the stock baffle on my TE510 and it worked really well.
    [​IMG]
  9. octagonpilot

    octagonpilot _________________

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Oddometer:
    484
    Location:
    36.0N 115.08W
    forgot to mention, I had the euro map loaded before I brought her home.

    the end cap off a straight FE sounds like a good idea, keep the stocker with all the smog stuff.

    keep posting any setup tips or any other good info you come across. I'll be read only for a couple more month thanks to winter...
  10. OlDirt58

    OlDirt58 Pucker bush dodger

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    Sep 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    284
    Location:
    So Cal
  11. OlDirt58

    OlDirt58 Pucker bush dodger

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    284
    Location:
    So Cal
    bump !!!
  12. MasterMarine

    MasterMarine Long timer

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    Jan 22, 2007
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    Now serving just Snohomish County
    That is a cool filter. Thanks for sharing it. :clap

    You might not think those stock clamps are so cool if you need to replace a damaged hose out on a ride. I changed all of mine on my 2013 KTM 500 EXC out for the high pressure screw clamp ones from KTM prior to going on my first big ride in Nevada so I could service them with standard tools if necessary.

    Later this past summer, I stalled my bike and fell over while single track riding deep in Gifford Pinchot National Forest. It happened to fall over so a small stump broke the nipple off of the quick connector. :eek1 I saw it when I picked up the bike so I did not squirt gas all over when I tried to start the bike. Luckily I had along in my tool kit a hose kit and some more screw clamps so I could make the repair. A few minutes later I was back on the trail. It would be a real pain to deal with those stock clamps on the trail.
    Benduro likes this.
  13. Dudsamoto

    Dudsamoto Been here awhile

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    Sep 17, 2002
    Oddometer:
    901
    Location:
    Idaho Panhandle
    [QUOTE=MasterMarine

    "You might not think those stock clamps are so cool if you need to replace a damaged hose out on a ride. I changed all of mine on my 2013 KTM 500 EXC out for the high pressure screw clamp ones from KTM prior to going on my first big ride in Nevada so I could service them with standard tools if necessary."

    I see your point. I just think the pinch style clamp is the right thing for the job. I don't see it as a huge problem IF you are prepared to deal with it.
    I carry spare fuel line and the screw type clamps in my tool pack if I need to make repairs. These aren't that hard to get off either, you can just cut through it with side cutters or take your leatherman tool and pry up the keeper tab and take it apart.

    On that same note, I was looking hard at the "factory" fuel connectontion that sends the fuel line out at a 90 degree angle instead of hanging out in the breeze like the stock one.
    ( why the hell don't they just use that as the "stocker"):huh
  14. Loggiebone

    Loggiebone Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    69
    Location:
    North GA Mountains

    LOL! I did the same thing...sold my 06 TE 610 for the FE 501S. Lovin' it.

    Regarding the screen: Remove the end cap and put it on a vice or similar with the spark arrester pointed down...the frame of the end cap resting on the vice. With a punch...about half inch is what I used...pound around the edges of the screen until you break thru or they start to come loose (there are actually two screens). Don't pound so hard that you bend the edges of the cap....put a rag or something under it. The screen is actually press fit by the spark arrester being welded. You'll understand what I mean when you get it off. When you can get a grip on it with pliers etc...start twisting it out. Probably come out in pieces.

    Be patient and don't use brute force...don't want to bend the cap.
  15. MasterMarine

    MasterMarine Long timer

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    I put those banjo type adapters on both my stock tank and my 5.3 G Acerbis. They are not quite as scary as the stock setup.

    When I first bought my 500EXC, there were reports online of them having fuel line issues so that is the main reason I was concerned about the clamps and having extra fuel lines. I think the main reason most manufacturers use single use crimp hose clamps over worm screw hose clamps is that they cost a few cents less per clamp than the higher quality worm clamps needed for high fuel pressures involved in fuel injection. Every penny saved is a penny earned!

    If someone else decides to replace the clamps as I have, they should use clamps designed for high pressure fuel injection use, not the cheaper clamps on the display rack at the auto parts store. There is a difference.
    Alter1 likes this.
  16. danketchpel

    danketchpel Long timer

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    Location:
    Camarillo, CA
    I've read through some of this thread and others regarding the Huskys.

    I'm considering one, but neither are spot on as is for what I think I'm looking for.

    I "think" the 501 could work "IF", there's something like a handlebar mount ignition/fuel map setup that will allow the beast to become more mellow for the technical stuff.

    I like big torquey thumpers with good manners that feel like they have some flywheel so they will chug nicely. I don't need a beast that will rip my arms off every time I blip the the throttle on the trail. I don't like a light switch or riding with lots of rpms which is what holds me back from the 350.

    Maybe the 501 is "mellow enough" to not wear me out on a long dual sport ride, I'm not sure.

    I'm also hoping the larger fuel tank options improve.
  17. octagonpilot

    octagonpilot _________________

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    Location:
    36.0N 115.08W
    great minds....
    and thanks for the scoop on the end cap
  18. Dudsamoto

    Dudsamoto Been here awhile

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    Sep 17, 2002
    Oddometer:
    901
    Location:
    Idaho Panhandle
    I did the same thing too....Except I kept my 610! :D
    (well, I did sell my 06 TE510)
  19. decooney

    decooney Enduro Rider

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2011
    Oddometer:
    669
    Location:
    Folsom, CA (NorCal)
    Hello, I bought a 501S yesterday, now a member of the 500 club. I've been researching the "map" question too, for the "S" model. Would like to get this figured out.

    I'd like to use the 2-way switch for MILD setting (slick mud) and WILD setting (open dirt) riding conditions. Had this on my former KTM. Hopefully someone here has actually tried it successfully. Not looking for guess answers, thanks in advance for your replies if you've actually tried this on an "S" model. I hear it is a different computer, but not certain yet.


    QUESTIONS:

    - is the "S" model's ECU locked? Can it be unlocked/re-programmed?

    - can the HUSKY POWER IGNITION CURVE SWITCH no.: 51539974100 be used with the "S" model computer once reprogrammed?

    - if not, do you have to buy the non-S offroad digital box and use that instead?
  20. John_B

    John_B roooooookie

    Joined:
    May 12, 2013
    Oddometer:
    78
    Location:
    Georgetown, TX
    Got my non-S back in early December. Didn't see this thread till now... here it is in all its glory

    [​IMG]

    Keeping warm for the time being.