Husqvarna FE501S & FE350S

Friend Nic bought his 501 a year ago. Now he is riding ST like this. Sticky tires and TuBliss really make a difference in these slick winter conditions.

I have a question. You say headlight, are you referring to the bulb? And if so which number bulb? I have two of the cyclops LED bulbs laying around back home in my basement for an old lights I had in a lynx fairing. Maybe they can work for the new bike.

Yeah sorry...headlight led bulb.

https://www.cyclopsadventuresports....-Newer-Dirt-Bike-LED-Headlight-Kit_p_127.html

Item: KTMDB-H4-XCW

(I have a non-s 2016 FE501)

Ok. Thanks. Those are different than the ones I have . I figure that my 17 probably has the same as yours. I don't think they changed the bulb type. But who's know.

I may be wrong here, but the S bikes have Hi and Low to be street legal.

You are correct. My mistake.

That bulb has a high and low too. I'm actually unsure what the difference is between fes and non s in the cyclops versions. I hooked it up to my high low switch (tusk Enduro lighting kit) and it works great. May want to email them and see what the diff is. Either way, great bulb so far though I haven't really been able to ride test it yet.

All of today's take offs:



The smog stuff came out pretty easily, but I chose to leave the brass fitting in the intake for now with a vacuum cap on it. I will fish the charcoal canister out of the frame tube one of these days, but I suppose that will require replacing the exhaust gasket. (Or does it? Anyone just reuse the one in there?)

Weird thing, though. After getting the bike back together, I took it for a spin, and it seemed more sluggish than before. It was slow to respond to the throttle. Removing this stuff shouldn't have affected performance at all, since the Vortex was in there (SAS not operating) and the air injection valve was blocked before I removed this stuff. It was below freezing here today, but I doubt that makes a difference. Any ideas?

I think it’s a good idea to leave the brass fitting and just seal it off. Sometimes the ktm loctite is too strong and they snap off when trying to unscrew it. There is really no reason to remove the charcoal canister; it weighs next to nothing. SAS/air injection has zero effect on performance, just popping in the exhaust. As far as the performance, go back through and check every connection/connector you touched. Did you have the fuel line quick connect apart? Pull it back apart and reconnect it to make sure it is fully seated. I assume all the adjustment dials on the Vortex are still sitting at zero or close to it?

I did have the tank off to remove the air injection valve. I will reconnect it as you suggested. Hopefully it’s that easy. The Vortex dials are all at zero (but I will recheck that as well).

Lo, mid and hi should be at 5 to start. X10 at 0 is the full power map.

Ah, yes, you are correct. The fuel trim settings are at 5, and the map is at 0, the factory settings. Thanks for the correction.

I just wanted to be sure they weren’t all turned all the way up; I doubt it would cause what you are seeing, but always rule out what you can. I didn’t notice much difference on mine between 0 and 5, except going to 5 made the bike less snatchy at low speed. Re-seat the fuel line quick connect yet?

I did. All seemed well there. There is still a slight hesitation off idle. Maybe it’s because the ambient temps are below freezing. It’s throwing off my timing for slow speed stuff like jumping up little curbs.

Did you try turning your idle up? What my ear thinks is a good idle speed for these bikes is a little too low. Also, the end cap looks different on your newer bike. Is there still a screen you can remove right at the end?

Remove the reed cage in the air box. That will make a difference.

I have removed the reed cage, which definitely made a difference in performance. Unintentional wheelies in 3rd gear! I also turned up the idle speed. The endcap is a KTM&Husky endcap with a USFS approved spark arrestor and a ‘quiet insert.’ The bike is not loud at all, which is great.

I rode the bike after those mods, and it was fantastic. The hesitation off idle did not occur until after I pulled the emissions crap off the bike. It shouldn’t have made a difference to performance, so that may simply be coincidental and not causal. The only other thing that changed as far as I can figure is the ambient air temp. It’s been below freezing for a few days here. There is an ambient air sensor in the intake. I don’t know if that would cause the hesitation or not.

I finally installed the Cyclops Ultra on my 350.
The Cyclops bulb eliminates the parking light, so I need to find a way to plug the hole. The beam pattern is still the shitty KTM pattern - yes it does maintain the stock cutoff though, if that's important to you. It is bright, but not nearly as much as I was expecting from 4 XHP50s (which is entirely due to the optics/reflector, not Cyclops' fault).
Another issue is the rats nest of wiring behind the headlight mask. This is a weak point of KTMs in general, but not helped by my addition of heated grips and now the Cyclops with it's driver module.

GREAT ADVICE, DAVE. The pain is very real, folks.

Yup. Broke off one on a 690, they get rubber caps now.