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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Tagati, Sep 18, 2009.
An hour or two.
Yup, it's down again.
try again. now it works for me
So what is the story with kickstand adapter? I'm reading on CafeHusky but they are all 7yo+. Anyone made a bolton adapter you can buy? If did then where? Thnx
Not working for me just a moment ago. Perhaps it's a Europe only site nowadays.
Now it works.
Posted this on Cafehusky.com but with the recent pages outage's thought it might be safe to cross post it here too...
So I'm puzzled how to deal with this and hoping for some leads. I've been re-working the wiring on my TE630. I installed a new MOSFET Regulator from Roadster Cycles and replaced the stator wires right back to the generator with high temp silicone wires, rerouted the wires away from the Exhaust headers and wrapped the pipes in exhaust tape as extra insurance.
Now when the low fuel sensor is activated it kills the indicator lights (on, turn signals, neutral, high beams) on the dash. Tachometer, clock, still display and the turn signals etc, still function, it's just the indicator lights that all shut off. I put a disconnect on the white/yellow wire that goes to the in-tank sensor and when I disconnect it, the lights all function normally, and when the tank is full of fuel, they work normally too. Something about the sensor is no longer working properly. The dash indicator lights worked fine prior to changing out the regulator so I'm not certain it's the sensor itself, but possibly something that got changed while I was tearing it apart.The sensor is showing a full 13v when I test it with a volt meter. What is the normal voltage across the sensor? I have pulled the pump assembly from the tank and inspected the wire to the sensor and it has a small tear at the bottom of the connector, but the black sleeve that covers the wire doesn't appear to be liquid tight so I wasn't sure if that was the issue.
Additional info... Prior to changing the regulator and stator wires I experienced another melt down on the stator wires and would get wildly fluctuating voltage readings. Now with the MOSFET regualtor I'm getting 14.1 volts but it's still jumping around quite a bit. Ranging from 14+ - 11.5v and all over the map in that range. No consistency at all. After 3 hours of riding the battery appears to still be at full charge, so there's that I suppose.
Great info, thank you for posting!
Any info on sourcing slave cylinder rebuilt kits or specs on the O-ring?
Thanks in advance.
Is it just the o ring gone ?
Mine had gouges in the body ,which honed out but went through the hard anodising . Only temp fix and sealed up ok .
Just ordered a complete replacement slave from oberon (CLU-1500-) in the UK , cheaper than husky or swm .
Just the O ring. Looked at the oberon too... $$$ ... how much is the total including shipping?
Replace it whit this Viton Oring type 2093
Measure 23,52X1,78 millimeter
Paid $160 AUD. shipped , be bout $100 USD
Thank you both for the info.
I'm trying to chaise down this steady throttle missfire issue with my bike and I need your help interpreting the manual because the picture is crappy.
To preface, my bike idles perfectly fine, and runs strong at WOT, but stead throttle it's pretty much unridable. If you're trying to keep a steady speed, say 2-5% throttle application, the bike bucks, hiccups and stumbles, but as soon as you give it a bit more throttle it clears out and runs fine. The bike is 100% stock and at first I though it was crappy emissions related fueling, but now that I got iBeat setup and increased the fueling from 100% to 102% for level 1, it just made it worse. I don't think it's a fueling issue. I'm now thinking it's a spark issue.
So I looked through the manual (attached) and it says for testing the coil you should get 4.5 ohms for the primary side (the two pins on the harness), and get 19k ohms on the secondary side, but I cannot determine how to measure the secondary side. On the primary side I'm getting 4.7 ohms between the connector pins, but on the secondary side if I connect my multimeter to the plug wire and the coil core I get open circuit, however if I connect my multimeter to the plug wire and one (either) of the primary wires I get 26k ohm. The picture is really hard to tell if I'm supposed to be connecting my meter between the plug wire and coil core (ground), or the plug wire and primary pin? If the former then I have a bad coil, and I'm now finding that such a common part is damn near impossible to find in the states, and if I order it from abroad it's 6-8 weeks downtime.
The secondary side should be checked between the plug wire and the primary + terminal. I doubt you have a coil problem, they either work or they don't.
My stock 630 was unrideable at small throttle openings. A Leo Vince Pipe, PC V, Autotuner, 12 port injector, removing all the emissions equipment, baffles, etc. completely fixed it. Turned it into a very nice running bike. I wish I could tell you which mod made the most difference but I can't. It ran so poorly I just did all the mods one weekend and have been riding it ever since.
thanks for the advice, I'll investigate fueling further then. I was very surprised that tuning the bike with iBeat did not effect the stutter at all. Going from 100/100/100 to 104/107/116 just make the bike lurch harder than when it was lean. I finally settled 98/103/116 as setting the first value to leaner than stock made the lurching less intense at least even though pretty much the same frequency of occurrence. Setting the TPS to it;s lowest setting 972mV made it feel like it helped, but it could be all in my head. I'm guessing iBeat is not fixing my issue, or at least not without throwing a muffler at it. Too bad that it;s impossible to find one for this bike, like pretty much all parts.
On a positive note. Even though the Husky ignition coil in no longer available in the US anymore, a first gen Suzuki SV650 uses the same or near identical coil as our bike, as in same 80mm bolt pattern and same diameter. So if anyone does get a busted coil out in middle of nowhere, look for a Suzuki dealer.
When I first saw your request for a coil I knew there would be a common bike out there that used the same coil. Most mfr's use similar parts even if they don't look the same.
Dyno Bob is your guy on using Ibeat to tune. Search for his posts in this thread or on Cafe Husky 630 section and all will be revealed. I'm of the PC V autotune club so can't really help you but good luck. They are a great bike once running properly.
You blokes got a swm dealer over there?
In oz parts are available through swm and are generally cheaper than husky
Parts fiche , most parts are available.