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Husqvarna TE630

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Tagati, Sep 18, 2009.

  1. Rob578

    Rob578 Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2011
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    1,537
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    Atlanta
    I'll check the power commander map next time I hook up the laptop and see what the autotuner has come up with.
  2. dfornis

    dfornis Adventurer

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    May 25, 2020
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    10
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    I think I might've fried my clutch drive plates by topping off with car engine oil. (I am an idiot yes)
    Found out about 3d party Adige Hu 51 in a café husky thread. Sold here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-on-Hu...clutch-plate-kit-by-Adige-HU-51-/162737941872
    Anyone know if they are available in Europe? It's going to take the whole driving season before I get them from the US. Alternatively what year of te 610 clutch plates fit the 630?
  3. Rotax655

    Rotax655 Aprilia World Meeting

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    Type HU51

    https://www.ebay.it/itm/SERIE-DISCH...DefaultOrganic&_trksid=p2386202.c100694.m4598
    dfornis likes this.
  4. dfornis

    dfornis Adventurer

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  5. Mike Mike Motorbikes

    Mike Mike Motorbikes Adventurer

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    Mesa, AZ
    So how exactly do the turn signal connectors come apart? I feel like I am about to break 4 connectors if I keep pulling on them
  6. Owen Snell

    Owen Snell Been here awhile

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    There's a small clip on the side that you push in with the end of a screwdriver.
  7. Fast1

    Fast1 Twisted Throttle

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  8. headstaller

    headstaller Long timer Supporter

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  9. floyd_of_oz

    floyd_of_oz Adventurer

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    Sunshine Coast, QLD
    Would I be mad for buying a 2011 Te630, that outwardly appears to be well looked after... But with 36,000kms?
  10. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog Supporter

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    If the price is in line with the miles and has been well cared for I wouldn't be scared of it. I have 15,000 (24,000km) reliable miles on mine. I'd check for wear on the counter shaft splines and maybe have a mechanic do a leak down/compression check. Check the rear subframe for cracks around the battery tray. Check the connector at the voltage regulator and the connector coming from the stator (upper frame tube under the tank) for signs of corrosion or heat.

    .
  11. floyd_of_oz

    floyd_of_oz Adventurer

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    Thanks DynoBob.

    36,000kms is the highest mileage Ive seen on the forums etc online. Im not worried about KMs per se - as I come from Beemer land, with my 2 bikes having a combined 400,000+kms. However Its not hard to find post of people with wrecked cranks and rebuilds at sub-20K KMs/miles...

    The bike appears to have been regularly serviced and maintained to a high standard. New clutch fitted when new (as there was a 'known issue' with them?) and a reinforced sub frame from new. Also, Power Up from new. Its covered in tasty farkles and I am fairly happy with the price - however, still weary of that high number...

    Thanks for the advice
  12. Ungarisch

    Ungarisch Adventurer

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    Dec 1, 2007
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    Los Angeles
    Any big bore, high compression, single cylinder is going to have bottom end issues if not properly lubricated. In fact bottom end issues is even more frequent in the KTM 690 world than on the 610/630's. Best advice I have been given is that a high compression, big bore engine puts a tremendous amount of load on the crank, and it being a roller type bearing it requires impeccable lubrication at all times, otherwise bearing failure is knocking on the door real quick. I have been told to use thicker oil then the manual recommends, Motul 15w60 Factory Line to be specific, and to idle the bike for about 5 minutes during cold starts before riding off to bring everything up to temperature evenly. Though being in California the thick oil is not an issue, I can run it year round.

    This is the advice that a good friend in Germany gave me, who's a KTM tech there and told me that 75% of his jobs are rebuilding KTM 690 bottom ends. He said that even though KTM recommends 7500 or 10k kilometer oil change intervals on those bikes, by less than 3k kilometers he's seeing 3% gasoline contamination in the oil, which is the absolute upper limit before wear starts to occur and accelerate exponentially. He told me to never go past that, and if I want to be cheap, change the oil but replace the filter every other time. He said fresh oil is more important than clean filter. I've taken that literally and since I got the bike, I have been changing the oil every 1-1.2k miles with the 15w60. 2 quarts of oil every 3-6 months is not gonna kill me.... I'm currently at 5k miles, and I have been absolutely BEATING on this bike with zero issues. We'll see when I hit 10-20k miles how she stands, but I'm confident that it should last.
  13. Rotax655

    Rotax655 Aprilia World Meeting

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    I expose my thoughts on the oil to use without going into detail as this is the most treated topic in the world of engines. I have been using only synthetic 5w50 oil on my cars and motorcycles for over 30 years. high viscosity index (better if over 170) good Total Base Number (not less than 7). all engines wear more when starting. it is in this "cold" phase that the oil must immediately reach all the parts to be lubricated to avoid "premature" wear. for this I prefer a 5w ..... which will become a W50 as soon as the engine is warm. the only concession I admit is a 10w60 but for those who ride a motorcycle in a very very hot country. the TE engine needs this
  14. DYNOBOB

    DYNOBOB lucky dog Supporter

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    Be aware - bikes with US spec ECUs are still very lean on the big end with the power up kit. I believe that has caused a few blown head gaskets and crank bearing problems for guys over the years. You must add fuel by some method. Don't know if your ECUs have the same issue over there.

    .
    Rotax655 likes this.
  15. Owen Snell

    Owen Snell Been here awhile

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    My UK bike has your iBeat settings and it runs a lot smoother, pulls clean from low revs and is just all round nice to ride. It must have been lean, when I bought it just with the PU it wasn't nice at all.
  16. floyd_of_oz

    floyd_of_oz Adventurer

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    Is the iBeat dongle still available? Or is DIY an option?
  17. Owen Snell

    Owen Snell Been here awhile

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    iBeat is downloadable, or one of us can FTP to you.

    Cables here: www.lonelec.co.uk part numbers: LEZBTUNEECU and LEHV0616ADAP.
    Rotax655 likes this.
  18. radmann10

    radmann10 Derf Supporter

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    IMG_3700.JPG
    IMO go for it! I have had mine since 2015, it has 14k miles on it. I have taken it from the southern tip of Baja to northern Idaho. It has been a good bike not too heavy, good mpg, reliable, and parts are still available.
    DYNOBOB and Rotax655 like this.
  19. stujamur

    stujamur keep rollin rollin rollin

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    Check has it had the clutch cush washers changed out / upgraded to harder steel one ? They where and can cause trouble .
    A cush hub on it from early on would be good and as mentioned check there is no play in the front cs sprocket on the spline
  20. EricV

    EricV Long timer

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    I think the main points/areas to look at have been pointed out- the CS splines and clutch washers being the biggies. I think the main thing, at this point, is their asking price. It would have to be priced attractively, at that mileage (has a lot of life left in it, but still.)

    I'm right at 36,000 kms on my 630 right now. Overall it's help up well, and the things that have occurred have been pretty easy to deal with. Now that aside from having to replace the whole engine casing, but mine was an aberration (at 13,000 kms the tip of the RH side oil screen came off and got punched through the bottom of the casings by the con rod.) That filter failing is not uncommon, but it is uncommon for it to do catastrophic damage. For what it's worth when my engine was torn down (again at 13,000 kms) to be put into the new casings everything looked like new.