I Hate Mexico, I Love Mexico, I Hate Mexico, I Love Mexico

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by rickcorwn, Mar 2, 2010.

  1. fugarwe

    fugarwe Usual Suspect

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    108
    Location:
    Southeast Minnesota
    Amazing, amazing video Chris! :clap

    Continuing:

    We spent two nights in Bato, withthe day in between having the morning spent with dad and bob engineering and building a replacement strut for the klr. after letting us use his tools and giving us all the materials, Prieto Morelas wouldn´t take any money. i left him a six pack and bob gave him 100 pesos since i didn´t have any change. Preito offered bob and dad jobs if they wanted them.

    We met Victor who was working for Prieto and he explained how you get married in Bato. Paperwork is not needed, you just need a willing partner to accompany you to a hotel somewhere out of town. When you return, the townsfolk accept you as a permanent couple. he left us with this warning ¨ÿou (course expletive deleted) sleep with her , you bought her¨

    He said most of these arrangements happen between the ages of 14-18, and the new wife returns to finish high school, or not, depending on circumstances.

    We later caught him hustleing some sweet young things and asked him about it. he said,if you have a car, it´s okay. jsut don´t take her to a hotel.
    #81
  2. HammerD0wn

    HammerD0wn Go cry me a river...

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    101
    Location:
    Dark side
    Enjoying your report..:thumb..thanks.
    #82
  3. Powershouse

    Powershouse Flower Sniffer Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,470
    Location:
    Minn-knee-sooo-taaa

    How did the Laminar Lip on that RV work out for you? :D
    #83
  4. cwc

    cwc . Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,266
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Do you know why burros don't go to college?:lol3
    #84
  5. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    Oddometer:
    838
    Location:
    'sota
    Truck of the day. An interesting lift for working on trucks :huh Another reason not to drink the water.
    [​IMG]
    #85
  6. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    Oddometer:
    838
    Location:
    'sota
    We've got another day here in Bato and a KLR to make roadworthy and some sights to see.

    But first a shot from last night's dinner in the kitchen, someone give me the name of the restaurant. Photo by Roberto.
    [​IMG]

    First we need to get that KLR more apart.
    [​IMG]

    Well there's yer problem :huh
    [​IMG]

    Once Charlie and Bob get the shock off and see that it's un-repairable the next step is to find a shop in town where something can be made to get John back on the road to some degree. We're all interested in what and how this new shock will be fabricated but Charlie is not keen on all of us tagging along. So Charlie and Bob are spearheading this effort and Ian is interested in seeing what a Mexican fabricators shop might look like and John needs go so he doesn't feel too guilty since it's his bike. The four of them hop on 3 bikes and head off for a mechanic they heard about at the other end of town. So that leaves Chris and me to our own devices. We just knock around town for a while and see how the folks here in Bato spend their days. It's not an easy life anywhere here in rural Mexico and Bato's not exception. There's a suspension bridge for pedestrians not far away and we're drawn to that like kids to a playground.

    One of the few pieces of heavy equipment in town most people are seen using shovels and pick axes for this kind of work.
    [​IMG]

    A small home on the far bank of the river.
    [​IMG]

    Tarahumara kids across the river from the hotel.
    [​IMG]

    Laundry day, many people have washers but still a lot of folks are using the old rock on the river to clean clothes.
    [​IMG]

    We heard about an old church being rebuilt a few miles down river in Satevo so Chris and I hop on the bikes to check it out.
    [​IMG]

    Apparently this project was government funded and the flow of money has stopped so the construction has also.
    [​IMG]

    The place is locked and there's no one around but there's a small panel missing from the door to peek into.
    [​IMG]

    Inside
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Looking back towards Bato from Satevo.
    [​IMG]

    Back at the ranch the boys are looking to fabricate a shock absorber. Well the first thing you need is raw material. Photo by Roberto.
    [​IMG]

    Next you need power tools. Photo by Juan with Roberto's camera.
    [​IMG]

    Bob the drill press and Charlie the vice. Photo by Juan with Roberto's camera.
    [​IMG]

    The hardware department. Photo by Juan with Roberto's camera.
    [​IMG]

    Then more power tools. Photo by Ian.
    [​IMG]

    Completo, hey for 100 pesos and a six pack of Tecate what were you expecting.
    [​IMG]

    Mr. Happy gets in on the repair action :lol3
    [​IMG]

    Now John's KLR is happy again.
    [​IMG]

    We also score a handful of stickers from the guy with the shop "the sky is always blue in Batopilas" or something like that.
    [​IMG]

    John won't be able to go with the group to Norogachi he'll need to head back to Chihuahua City and we'll meet him there in 2 days. The hard tail concept has got it's flaws, if John is too hard on the bike on the gravel roads it could break shock mount and frame components.

    So with the KLR fixed we do some more sight seeing. We head back to the other end on town to the Hacienda, ruins of a long ago mining headquarters that once drove the Bato economy. It's Diez pesos for the self guided tour.

    [​IMG]

    Non-OSHA compliant hand railing.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here's an old photo of the complex.
    [​IMG]

    Out back we found this gem, more Mexican code.
    [​IMG]

    At night we head to the "Cowboy" bar, named that by John because of rather rowdy patrons on previous trips. Tonight the security gato has that under control. As long as I'm in Mexico and there's beer I'm happy :deal
    [​IMG]
    #86
  7. cwc

    cwc . Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,266
    Location:
    Minnesota
    I got just a little too much credit in the last post. We all contributed ideas, but when it came to making the parts Bob was the man. I held material and chased parts.

    When we asked for a drill, Prieto stopped lapping valves and gave us the only drill to use. The drill bits, especially the larger ones were....terrible. Bob sharpened all the bad ones freehand and they were perfect when he was done. Not bad considering that he was working with a grinding wheel with a full radius on the circumference.

    The nicely painted replacement shock replacement as installed.
    [​IMG]Photo by Sideshow

    All in all it was a pretty successful bodge. John is still evaluating the result, but I suspect that if someone offered him a really good deal on a KLR shock he'd be interested.

    It's too bad nobody got a pic of the valve lapping operation.
    #87
  8. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    Oddometer:
    838
    Location:
    'sota
    Well all good things must come to an end and so we must leave Batopilas we've all come to really enjoy this town. John will be heading back to Chihuahua via Creel to follow as much pavement as possible. The 5 remaining will be going to Norogachi this isn't a firm destination there were a couple of other options I don't recall just now. Not far north of Bato we turn and head up the mountain, another big climb. The track shows 6300 feet over 20 miles most of that in the first 10. Once at the very top there's another little shrine where we pause for some great photo ops. The rest of the day was really varied some of it was pretty fast and relatively smooth but there were sections that really threw in some big rocks and tough climbs. Because we had climbed up to over 7000 feet elevation we had to deal with a few icy patches around the water splashes.

    Chris pauses for a few pics.
    [​IMG]

    Hey look some new roads!! Maybe next year :cry
    [​IMG]

    A big climb but I'm feel'n good :thumb Photo by Cristobal
    [​IMG]

    Going down, with plenty of rocks thrown in for entertainment :ricky Photo by Roberto.
    [​IMG]
    Photo by Roberto.
    [​IMG]

    Bob coming in on final approach.
    [​IMG]

    Some nice little river action.
    [​IMG]

    We regroup at the bottom.
    [​IMG]

    After about 60 miles we found ourselves on pavement for a bit over 20 miles then back to the rocky Mexican roads we've all come to know and love. Ian and Chris find Noragachi before the rest of us and as they're parked at the entrance to town a young kid, like 18, walks up and says "where are you guys headed" in English. This takes them by surprise of course once they get talking it turns out Edgar spent several years living in Kansas and just returned about a year ago. Chris and Ian ask if there are any hotels in Noragachi Edgar says there are none.

    Now if our Copper Canyon adventure had ended right here and we were about to head for home it would have been a fabulous trip but now, this last night in the canyons things were about to get really real.

    I'm going to pause here and let the others catch up.
    #88
  9. cwc

    cwc . Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,266
    Location:
    Minnesota
    As Rick said, we started with a bit of a climb. This road is either the start or end of a loop you can ride out of Batopilas. Once on top we found our way to Yoquivo where we stopped for 2nd breakfast at a tienda. The storekeeper said the turn we were looking for was in seis kilometros, mas o menos. It turned out to be closer to diez y seis. Maybe I wasn't listening close enough.

    Anyway we came out about where I expected on the paved road and made our way to Norogachi.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Before getting lodging some of us took a little trip to Siquirichi. If we were coming from the east we could continue past Siquirichi and find our way to Laguna Aboreachi where we met the paved road and cut out about 20 miles of pavement. Maybe next year.

    At Siquirichi there is a river crossing that was quite shallow. Sideshow rode across and back much to the delight of the assemble masses. The response was so good he did it again.

    [​IMG]Photo by Bob

    Travel time was 8¾ hours including all stops.
    #89
  10. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    Oddometer:
    838
    Location:
    'sota
    Truck of the day.
    [​IMG]
    #90
  11. fugarwe

    fugarwe Usual Suspect

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    108
    Location:
    Southeast Minnesota
    Dad and Bob did a fabulous job fabbing up the strut. It rode great, and on the pavement made for a great ride. I stopped every so often to check for breakage further up the structure food chain, but none was found.

    So the next day i headed off by myself while the others headed to pathfind a way up te canyon, over to yoquivo, and then over to nonoava.

    i made it to the bato turn off in two hours, and had a very enjoyable ride into creel, and on to Chihuahua.



    Some favorite quotes of the trip:

    ( me in my hotel room, hearing a knock at the door) yeah?

    my dad ¨is Ian in there?¨

    me ¨yeah, he´s in the can¨

    dad ¨okay,i just wanted to see his little thing¨

    ¨Ian, you have a visitor!¨

    he claims to have wanted to see some tire tool ian had. great, two more years of therapy.


    From my wife on the phone at home ¨Burning wood for heat is for cavemen¨ apparently it´s not so easy a caveman could do it.

    Chris, upon hearing had we come into Uruachic three days later all the hotel rooms would have been full. ¨Shwa?¨ (see this for reference )http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/schfiftyfive

    Bob signing over and over Junior Brown´s greatest hits, but replacing the word ¨job¨ with¨yob¨.

    From my other ride report:

    I pulled in to town about 430 pm, and all the rooms at the Maria Delores were taken. They recommended another hotel closer to the square, that was of the same quality, only cheaper with more amenities. I may not return to the maria.

    Still waiting for word on where the others ended up. perhaps a nice comfy roadside?

    I have all day to kill tomorrow, so plan to update the missing days then. Mexico is amazing. It never ceases to deliver. Don{t believe the press, this place is one great country to visit. They are building new roads all over the copper canyon, and there wasn{t a hint of problems or violence there. in fact, the people were nicer and more welcoming than in years past. very little military or police presence. once in awhile you see a truckload of one or the other going someplace, but they always had a smile or wave for us.

    <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #3b3b3b" align=left bgColor=#3b3b3b><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Chihuahua and recap<!-- google_ad_section_end -->


    </TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>February 25 2010, 2:34 PM </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 225px"></I>
    <!-- google_ad_section_start -->Got moved over to the Maria this morning. Haven´t heard fromt the rest of the crew, so it´s easier to meet there. After finishing last night´s message a couple of trannys came into the internet place. All blinged out and talking on their cell phones. ¨Chow!¨

    Walked over to a bar that we had found last week and watched mexico cream bolivia in soccer. it seemed to please the crowd. I headed back to the room and started watching TV, which lasted WAY too long into the night. I´m feeling i today. Mexico TV has way less commercials and they play lots of american movies with spanish subtitles, so I can enjoy the movie in english, but read the subtitles and learn new words and their applicacions. perrito and listo were memerable ones from last night. I ended up watching some science fiction thing that lasted a couple hours, bewitched, and then found a sitcom channel to finally fall asleep to.

    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></I><!-- google_ad_section_end -->
    #91
  12. *Gravy*

    *Gravy* Jedi Loser

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,299
    Location:
    MN
    Thanks for taking the time to write up the report! I can’t wait ‘till I get a turn!
    ¡salud! :freaky
    #92
  13. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23,332
    Location:
    Burbank CA
    epic......:lurk


    great job; i enjoyed every page and pic....:thumb
    #93
  14. oldx

    oldx Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,094
    Location:
    Camano Island, WA
    Great pic's and ride report.:clap:clap:clap
    #94
  15. sideshow

    sideshow debaser

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,778
    Location:
    Waukesha (the only one)
    100 pesos and a 6 pack was pretty good. John was ready to do whatever to get home.
    [​IMG]

    John was happy and not just because he was in Mexico and there was beer. He was in Bato, and that was his goal. Make it to Bato, and that's it. As I said before his tastes fail to disappoint. The town itself is long, but only about 2 streets deep. The town square has been featured many times in ride reports. With the naranjas (oranges) I bought at the old casino for less than 4 cents each, I was able to add some fun to the square.

    [​IMG]

    I peeled one of the oranges to enjoy it and gave the others to some attentive kids on a bench on the square. They were excited and that made me happy. I find it sad that many American kids are unimpressed with live entertainment these days.

    After repairing the void where John's shock was, we found a late lunch. I don't post this pic for a shot of food (though those tacos were tasty) but as a capture of character of mi amigo Bob. You won't be without a handyman when you are with Bob.
    [​IMG]

    As we left Batopilas and made our way toward Norogachi I daydreamt never leaving. But for reality's sake, departure was a must.

    Yoquivo lunch stop: Rick poses under a sign for Gohner batteries. "Yep, truck runs great. Battery's a Gohner so you know she's good!"
    [​IMG]

    Between lunch and making it to the pavement, Ian and I stopped at this busted up bridge. We pulled our helmets to wait for the other guys to catch up. It was then that we noticed we were near a school. The kids were kicking a ball around and began running toward us.
    "Let's go give them tattoos!"
    Ian had brought some temporary tattoos that his wife supplied him with. He planned on handing them out to kids. Because what kid doesn't like temporary tattoos?
    We approached and they scattered. With my leatherman we cut up the sheets of tattoos and Ian started passing them out. With the water bottle strapped to his luggage he applied one to show the process. The Tarahumara kids got the jist of it. I passed out more and Ian helped a kid apply a large one to his arm. Some of the kids were nervous and some were laughing. All were curious. The teacher in the distance patiently waited in the field near the kickball. A couple girls refused the handouts. Showing that we meant no harm, the kids seemed cool when I pulled the camera out.
    [​IMG]

    Soon Rick passed by and then Charlie and Bob passed. We had to get back on the road and catch up. We waved to the kids, started up the bikes, and fled back down the trail.
    #95
  16. sideshow

    sideshow debaser

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,778
    Location:
    Waukesha (the only one)
    Charlie mentioned Siquirichi. He wanted to check out the river there and it was a side trip from Norogachi -- just a little 5 mile jog out of town.

    We pulled into Siquirichi and found what may have been a school, but Charlie's thoughts of it being an orphanage made sense. As we pulled up, we had the attention of the local kids.
    [​IMG]

    Charlie asked where the river was and the kids pointed down the road. As we started up the bikes they began running in the direction they had pointed.

    It was clear to me that they wanted to see motorcycles cross the river. Charlie just wanted to see if it was passable, and visual inspection was enough for him. I didn't want to let the kids down. The crossing was easy and the kids seemed to get a kick out of it. Charlie spoke with an adult down at the river who pointed out how high the river would get in the flooding seasons. Likely he was either a teacher or a caretaker at the orphanage. There was a high kid-to-adult ratio.

    The kids were pretty enthusiastic. I couldn't help but laugh. They chased us back to the hill where the school/orphange was.

    <embed type='application/x-shockwave-flash' src='http://vholdr.com/videoPlayer/embedPlayer.swf' allowfullscreen='true' allowscriptaccess='always' flashvars='height=281&width=500&plugins=yourlytics-1&yourlytics.callback=http://vholdr.com/callback.php&repeat=list&file=http://vholdr.com/xspf/node/72568/emb' height='281' width='500'></embed>
    #96
  17. fugarwe

    fugarwe Usual Suspect

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    108
    Location:
    Southeast Minnesota
    Chris, you should post the pic of the helmets that go with gonher batteries. And of the toilet......

    Yes, it's true, I love Batopilas. I always lobby to spend two nights there on our mexico trips. I've been lucky before and been able to spend three nights.

    This trip was a bit different in that way than our other trips. We spent two consecutive nights in Chihuahua City, Uruachic, Urique, and Batopilas. And for me again two nights on the way out in Chihuahua City. I really liked that format for exploring. I like the technical remote roads, and the extra day in the towns allows us to try some roads (trails) that normally we wouldn't be able to because of the pressure to make it to the next town before dark.

    Another thing I really liked about this trip was the noob ratio. I always love showing someone new the canyons and watching their reactions. It kind of brings back the sweet memories of the awe I felt the first time I saw the beauty of it.
    #97
  18. rokklym

    rokklym one man wolfpack

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,529
    Location:
    Westby Wisconsin
    Looks like a great trip!
    #98
  19. judjonzz

    judjonzz Beastly

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2002
    Oddometer:
    2,032
    Location:
    Not Fargo, not Butte, not Cheyenne
    Chad, you should do one of these.
    #99
  20. sideshow

    sideshow debaser

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,778
    Location:
    Waukesha (the only one)
    Good call.

    I'm thinking of importing Gohner batteries into the US and calling them "Dead" brand batteries. I could import these helmets into the US, too. I think I'll rebrand them as "Decentodds."

    [​IMG]

    What more powerful name could Jazmin come up with for their line of large diameter flushers? I can't think of one.
    [​IMG]

    Other fun-by-translation product names were the aforementioned "Chokies" for cookies. And a Mr.Clean cleanser knockoff, "Bref" is hopefully not a description of how long the product works. These were fun to find. Looking around I remember seeing more of these in the stores, but can't recall them right now.