I Hate Mexico, I Love Mexico, I Hate Mexico, I Love Mexico

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by rickcorwn, Mar 2, 2010.

  1. kbear

    kbear Mudbiker

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    Sideshow,

    Great reading your RR!! I'm sure you'll have a few stories to tell at the Meet and Greet in Delafield in 2 weeks! See ya there!
  2. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    Chris and Ian ask if there are any hotels in Norogachi Edgar says there are none but my aunt might be able to put you up, she has a very large house. Hmmmmm, this could be interesting. Once the rest of the group arrives we decide this is a good option if it works out. Turns out Norogachi holds a festival each summer Semana Santa (Holy Week) and this attracts people from all over. Most of the town residents have made some effort to accommodate the influx of tourists for that week and Edgar's Aunt Elva is set up for several guests. She's the librarian in town so we head up there but she's out of town but expected back by sunset. This gives Charlie a chance to pump Edgar and another local for info on the road to Siquirichic. There's a river crossing there if we can get through easy enough could be a short cut or at least a dirt option from Laguna de Aboreachi. We gas up in La Lomas, Norogachi and La Lomas are like Minneapolis and St. Paul only really small and no Norwegians. Then head out of town to find the river crossing. Chris covered the run down to river already.

    Charlie gets a road report.
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    Gas stop in St. Paul, I mean Los Lomas :lol3
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    Kids down by the river. Photo by Ian.
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    Photo by Roberto.
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    Our Norogachi connection, Edgar :deal
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    Looking down at Elva's place.
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    We find our way to Elva's but no one's home yet. We hang out eyeing the chickens and figuring they'd make a pretty good meal if need be. Charlie gets talking to one of the neighbors and he offers us a place to stay at his house. I didn't see it but it was little more than a shack out back, better than sleeping outdoors but not by much, we'll wait for Elva. Bob has found a piece of conduit and has a plan for highway pegs for the XT. Tomorrow after we finish with the gravel to Nonoava it'll be highway for a hundred miles or so, he thinks this will help. After awhile Edgar's father shows up (some one mentioned that this guy was Edgar's friends father so I might have this detail wrong) he opens one of the sleeping rooms that has a small wood stove in it so we can warm up some. The sun is going down and we're at nearly 7000 feet so the cold will come fast. Charlie convinces him to call Elva so we know for sure we've got a spot for the night. He gets in his truck and leaves to head out to the spot up on a hill some where so he'll get a cell signal. When he returns we know Elva's on board with the plan and we've got a place for the night. After a while Edgar stops by and invites us in for some coffee, hot coffee. We sit in the kitchen near the wood stove and sip our coffee and talk with Edgar. When Elva arrives things start to happen, she's in full on hostess mode and starts barking orders to Edgar and getting the sleeping rooms ready.

    Bob contemplates highway pegs.
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    Kuryakyn has got nothin' on Bob. Photo by Roberto.
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    A very interesting water pump at least to the engineers in the group.
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    Looking out from Elva's.
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    Hanging out at Elva's, she'll be home soon.
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    Chris seemed to really like the princess room, maybe a little too much :eek1 Photo by Ian
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    She then instructs Edgar to take us down to watch the Tarahumara kids practice their holy week dance. This gets us out of the way for her to get the rooms ready and make dinner, our boarding arrangement include dinner and breakfast home cooked by Elva. Now this morning Charlie was in a hurry for us to get outta town because of the unknown roads we'd be traveling so there was no real breakfast. We did stop a couple of times and had snacks but we haven't had a real sit down meal yet today and the thought of a hot home cooked meal makes me salivate. We head down to the center of town to watch the kids practice, this turned out to quite a spectacle. Outside in the courtyard of what may have been the school there were two bonfires about 100 feet apart. The dancers, all boys maybe 6 to 14 years old dressed in a native costume and with some body painting. were dancing in a big oval around the two fires. There was a couple of the boys playing drums down at the far end. These drums weren't what you'd expect, the sound from them was more like a Aboriginal Australian didgeridoo. There were a couple of older boys in the center running back and forth between the fires waving big white flags. Off to the side sitting on the steps of the school were all the girls huddled together for warmth because now it was down right cold maybe 40˚F. This had been going on for a long time before we arrive and it continued for at least another hour before it ended. This turned out to quite the cultural behind the scenes experience.

    Norogachi night life.
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    The Tarahumara dancers.
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    The spectators besides us.
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    Ian shows the girls the pictures he's taken.
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    These little guys had to be freezing, I was cold with all of my gear still on.
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    Once it was over we walked back to Elva's and dinner was all set for us and we were all set for dinner! There are few words at dinner except to ask which one of the tamales are better the sweet or the roasted. There was even mashed potatoes Elva knows how to treat the gringos. Egar and a friend are watching the Mexico vs. Bolivia soccer match and Mexico is kicking but so there was lots of excitement in the kitchen. Unfortunatly we're pretty low on excitement right now and it must be close to 10:00PM so we're interested in getting to bed.

    Elva collects clothing and stuff for the Tarahumara kids and well most of the stuff we've seen so far has a Disney theme. So do some of the items in the rooms making for some interesting decorating but Chris seems to really like this stuff. Charlie and I are in a room that's connected to Bob's room where there's the small wood stove so we've got some heat along with plenty of blankets. Chris and Ian aren't so lucky and it's a stand off to see who gets out of bed to turn off the lights. We stay warm and we sleep like rocks.

    HOT food :clap:clap
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    Ian, Edgar, Bob and Charlie.
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    Charlie in our room not too fancy but comfy beds and lots of blankets :thumb

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    Warming the place up. Photo by Roberto.
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    In the morning it's cold, really cold like 30˚ cold. We start to get the bikes packed and Elva has breakfast ready for us. Huveos con choritzo, beans, home made tortillas and toast. We haven't had toast the whole trip there's also home made apple jam to go with it, I told you Elva knows had to treat the gringos. There is one problem this morning, the pipes are frozen so there's no water so the toilet isn't working too good yet. Well we're all thinking the same thing right now, how quick can we get to the woods. Well before we get packed Elva comes out and tells us the water's flowing again and we all breath a sigh of relief. While these accomidations might not have been as comfortable as the hotels we'd been staying at it provided a window into the life of the Mexicans of this region that few get to experience. Personally I was thrilled to have had the pleasure of their hospitality.

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    Edgar and Elva our hosts :bow Photo by Roberto.
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    Breakfast cookn' on the wood stove, note home made tortillas yummm. Photo by Roberto.
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    Happy travelers :D:D all except for Charlie he's worried about the bathroom right now :eek1 Photo by Roberto.
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    Leaving town, back at the center of town.
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    The church in the daylight.
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    We've still got great roads to ride so we're off like a prom dress. It's about 40 miles to the pavement then we blast back to Chihuahua City for one more night south of the border. We had sections that were flat and smooth through some farm land and some good climbs and rocky bits but over all it was a pretty easy days ride. Well now that I think about it I did have a couple of episodes. Once I stalled on a particularly rocky climb and needed help even pushing the bike down to a spot I could relaunch. Then just outside of Nonoava we'd been on the pavement for a few miles when we came to the spot where there should be a bridge. I guess they just hadn't gotten around to that part yet. So we had a nice water crossing which I kinda biffed, I got my front wheel pinned between a couple of rocks and Charlie had to come out and help me free the bike. A short dusty 100 yards and then it was pavement all the way back from there. On the way we stop at a roadside vendor who sells copper pots from small 4 or 5 inchers all the way up to one you could use as a bath tub. Ian and Chris pick up some gifts for folks back home.

    As we head out in to the hills we look back on Norogachi. Photo by Roberto.
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    Rock formations like the one back near Creel, yaba daba doo.
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    Photo by Roberto.
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    Photo by Roberto.
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    Photo by Roberto.
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    Our final water crossing :cry Photo by Roberto.
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    Looking good, pre-biff :lol3 Photo by Roberto.
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    Copper pots :eek1
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    Ian strikes a deal :deal
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    Once back in Chihuahua City we're reunited with John he's been doing the town for two days now. We get cleaned up as it's been a couple of days now since the last shower. Chris, Ian and I set out to do some shopping. Chris saw a belt buckle when we were here last, a dollar sign spinner and I'm on the hunt for one of the big heavy blanket we've had on the beds this trip. I score my blanket but Chris strikes out on the belt buckle bling. He makes up for with a very special pair of sunglasses, I'll let him post his favorite picture of those. After dinner we just don't quite have the energy to head out on the town so we just hang out at the hotel and have a couple of final cervezas. Arturo stops by later to see the tracks and look at the maps of the new roads we've found. I thank him for the medical advice that saved me from the scourge I had earlier.

    The next day we head for the border, we drone along big long straight stretches of pavement. That is until John runs out of gas, we do three tank flops to get John to Coyome. From there the road at least has a bunch of twists and turns.

    Flop for gas.
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    We end our kick ass trip at Kick Ass Pizza :thumb:thumb:thumb
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  3. ShinyPartsUp

    ShinyPartsUp Turkey Buzzard

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    I love the tag-team writeups. Great adventures and wonderful pictures. thanks! :clap :clap
  4. rokklym

    rokklym one man wolfpack

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    Sounds like a wonderful idea!
  5. atk_nut

    atk_nut and atk_nut_wife

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    I'm glad you saw Mexico like we did.There's so much more!I'll have to try those roads next time with the nobbies.Thanks for sharing.
    atk_nut wife
  6. drrags

    drrags Dorkus Malorkus

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    I really enjoyed this RR, nicely done :deal :clap
  7. cwc

    cwc . Supporter

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    As Rick said, there was about 40 miles of fun and then some paved fun on this day. It appears that in the near future you will be able to Start in Chihuahua and go to Guachochi via Nonoava and Norogachi all on paved roads. Based on what I saw it may also still be possible to take the dirt road from Nonava to Norogachi.

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    It has been a great trip. Best of all, as Bob said, not one pendejo in the group. Maybe he forgot about me.
  8. SeanShawn

    SeanShawn n00b

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    Great stuff
  9. fugarwe

    fugarwe Usual Suspect

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    I got yer pics right here.

    Finally got the pics off my phone, and signed up for photobucket. Technology, BAH!

    At the shrine on the way out of Bato with the Hardtail
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    Up the valley from the bridge at the shrine
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    See the truck down below the bridge?
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    See it now?
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    Copper Vendor at the turnoff to H.D. Parral
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    I've driven by this guy for 6 years now, and since I was by myself I finally had the chance to stop and see his stuff. The smallest one is about 20 bucks, the largest one is 1300 bucks. funny part is, our group rode past this guy in three seperate parts, and ALL of us stopped to look and take picks!

    More of the copper guy's wares
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    And since the hush money didn't come through, here's a pic of sideshow with the pillow from my daughter's bed he INSISTED on having. She wants it back, by the way.
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    (Chris thought he was safe because of my ineptness at technology. Just needed the right motivation I guess)
  10. Hotspice

    Hotspice Satellites not acquired

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    Great ride report guys. Way to roll with the adversities and make the best of the ride.

    :freaky
  11. sideshow

    sideshow debaser

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    Dude, hush money? I'm going to find a cash machine. . .

    With the room in Norogachi, the pillow -- good things come in threes. Completing the trifecta is this hot little Monte we eyed up:
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    And Rick might think I was all over the Princess Dayna room in Norogachi, but I didn't sleep there. Ian and I shared this love nest, complete with stuffed lion with no eyes.
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    And just what IS this?
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  12. judjonzz

    judjonzz Beastly

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    Wow, XLNT.
  13. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    That thing is scary, I couldn't sleep with that in the room :yikes:yikes
  14. sideshow

    sideshow debaser

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    The ride out of Norogachi was a nice endurance of changing terrain. Ian trudged on (actually, trudged is a poor adjective for his speed) and I stopped to see if Rick was close behind. No sign, but I was in a good picture spot. I took the wrong path for a little ways and realized it about a half mile down the road. Guess I should have stuck with keeping up with Ian!

    From some wicked rocky climbs to some smooth, light, sandy plain-like surfaces. Not only the surfaces changed, but so did the landscape all the way to Nonoava. There we would pick up the fresh, new highway. Which would seem soooooo smooth.

    <embed type='application/x-shockwave-flash' src='http://vholdr.com/videoPlayer/embedPlayer.swf' allowfullscreen='true' allowscriptaccess='always' flashvars='height=281&width=500&plugins=yourlytics-1&yourlytics.callback=http://vholdr.com/callback.php&repeat=list&file=http://vholdr.com/xspf/node/71810/emb' height='281' width='500'></embed>

    One section of the climbs on cwc's last graph was this one. After a river crossing the road went up the side of a mountain with some large broken chipped rocks for gravel. You could see that much of this oversized gravel had washed down from the top and you were riding on the bare faces of the rocks that had been cut by whatever wicked machinery they were able to get up here.

    <embed type='application/x-shockwave-flash' src='http://vholdr.com/videoPlayer/embedPlayer.swf' allowfullscreen='true' allowscriptaccess='always' flashvars='height=281&width=500&plugins=yourlytics-1&yourlytics.callback=http://vholdr.com/callback.php&repeat=list&file=http://vholdr.com/xspf/node/71570/emb' height='281' width='500'></embed>
  15. sideshow

    sideshow debaser

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    As Rick said I had my heart set on picking up a spinner silver and gold rhinestoned "$"-sign belt buckle that I had spotted in Chihuahua. All three on the rack were gone. No worries, though. I spotted these for my single personal souvenir (well, aside from the stickers on the bike). To all the guys, thanks for the great trip. Especially you, Charlie.

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  16. sideshow

    sideshow debaser

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    Now you know why I chose the bed under Mother Mary! :lol3
  17. ShinyPartsUp

    ShinyPartsUp Turkey Buzzard

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    Those last two video clips are awesome! Can't wait until I go with the FJR group (on dual-sports) in November... great writeup!
  18. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    I need to throw in my thanks to Charlie and John too for bring us noobs along on a great trip. :freaky One of the things I really liked was spending some extra time in a few of the towns. That really gave us the ability to explore the area rather than rush off to the next town every day. Having 2 weeks in Mexico made that possible too. Another thing I love about Mexico is how inexpensive it is. I spent just a tick over $900 for 15 days on the road that included my share of the gas, $269, in the RV from Minnesota to the border. I can't think of anything that would have made the trip better. Well OK, I could have done without being sick for 3+ days but then it wouldn't have been the "complete" Mexican experience :lol3:lol3
  19. Mike_G

    Mike_G Exasperated

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    I'm looking for a decent bag (or set of Dirt Bagz) to put on my DRZ-S. What type of bag is Charlie using on his DR? It looks sturdy and roomy.

    Great reports guys, thanks for taking the time to write them up -- the trip looks like it was pretty amazing! If you need someone to tag along next time... :evil

    Mike
  20. cwc

    cwc . Supporter

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    Glad you asked. The bag is custom made. I bought some ballistic nylon and YKK zipper parts and traded two days labor (plumbing and wiring) to get it sewn. A little poking around at the link in my sig will get you to a slightly out of date list of what I carry in it.

    It seems to be extremely durable and I like it a lot, but it could be improved.

    If you are interested in duplicating it we could probably arrange to get you a closer look at it.