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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by tulalabuilt, Aug 5, 2019.
i packed up and took off . the plan is to follow the coastal road , all the way down to albania .
the coastal highway is kinda like us 101 , except it is the only road that connects them towns , loaded cement trucks , busses , and boat load of tourists . from time to time it openes up to 3 lane . back to bosnia for couple of miles aaaand back to croatia again , came up to a guy on new 790 all loaded up , why isnt he passing them cars , lane opens up i pass him and few cars i wawe at him to go go go in process , so now we both zooming down the coast , hes on 790 , i am on 800 , i have a bigger motor if you think about it . laughing . i pull into an overlook he stops , fist bump , and the next couple of hours spent talking about motorcycles . the guy is KTM enginner from mattighofen , he is on his way to mongolia or some other place way out there . his bike is a prototype , and it shows . i have to check this think out . its one of the very first adv 790 s .
work totally sucked today , but at least i had a good view . sitting on a view point killed 20k mh power back everything went backwards at work , i am on the phone helping solve problems , and the people on the other end have no clue , they are sitting in their cubicals someplace downtown cincinati and who knows where else . i am on the shit receiving end here , but some reason i dont care . the speed boats zooming out in the distance , the sea is crystal clear blue , and i am sitting on a cliff on top of it all , talking to people at work and they have no clue . and aint telling them either . that and the meeting with gari , the ktm engineer set me back few hours . i knew albania would arrive at night .
montenegro , is modern , as soon as i cross the border
, beautiful super modern bay , with cruise ships zooming by , towns are being build new , shopping centers , super modern , hotels , buji beaches , expensive cars ..... only one problem . all the roads are ancient build tiny little paths , cant even call them roads . mad traffic everywhere . i mastered lane splitting . but even that . if you have to go there by car , dont . every town had a 15 km back up .
so i come up to kotor , i kinda wanted to ride around the bay , but at this time , ferry for 2 bucks was better option .
did dinner at beach , in beach town , and zoomed out into distance .
town of bar . its dark , loop around town , modern with old , people everywhere , night life and all that but i just climb the hill , i am now google navigating towards my destination . like wah , tiny little streets in tiny villages in middle of nowhere , like where am i going . stray dogs chasing you as go by , i am so used to it i dont ven care no more . car passed by german license plates , another one , this must be the road to the border . switch back up hill . car on side , its so dark and the road is busted , italian tourists hit a pothole and broke something on their car . oil pan or something . next village . tiny , with a soccer field next to road . they playing soccer at 10 pm . bright white tahoe with california license plates in front of a bar .
arrived at the border . there is about 10 cars in front of me and its taking a while . the border has main building and the officers processing cars have their own little building . the cars go to the right , and there is a pedesterian sidewalk on the left between the small building and the main building . some locals are walking by on foot . tey trying to tell me something , i am like wah , no clue , they walk the side walk , flash their passports and go . i am watching it happen . now the customs is out of the windown on the sidewalk telling me to pull up . i ride up the sidewalk , present passport . the officer goes like , you dont have to wait in line for cars , you fit here , you go here sidewalk , no problem , car dont fit , motorcycle no problem . and i am like loving how these people think , like you fit come thru here , yeah , why not , i fit , who cares if its a pedesterian sidewalk . they must not have their countries ran by a greedy lawyers . i love it down here . i had to present registration and they were checking vin getting into albania .
i rode the next two or three towns without helmet , they were like one street towns and they had restauranrts and bars and people were out and enjoying their lives . the closer i get to skodar the more expensive cars i see . like amg n such , some with michigan licenseplates , some with no license plates .
camp . the pool is lid blue , there is platform on top of the pool , with chairs and the water fall off the platform into the pool . on top of the town are ruins of old castle , and the camp is beaming a light up there , from just on top of the pool . bar is still open . tent up , shower , beer , out .
i have to go get gas and get internet , cause there is something going at the camps wifi , its not working well , i ride around town, its an interesting combination of rich and poor and old and modern . vehicles range from donkey and buggy to s63amg . and everything in between . lots of yamaha scooters
, like some nice , some so beat , you wonder how they run . old trucks , new trucks . body shops and car repair shops everywhere .
german tourists used to joke about vacationing in albania . they used to say , go to albania , your car is already there .
they dont even bother taking the signs off the door , they have german company names right up front , they way they came from germany , they dont care about nothing . you can see people selling produce on streets , dumpster diving on trike scooters , it goes from pretty nice to total slum and garbage
, to relatively nice to super nice back to slum
. there is a scooter shop , they are welding something , flip flops and short pants is universal . i pull up to the station , modern , but not maintained , like its not polished , the widowns are dirty thinks arent organized . you have wifi i ask , sure he says , i have my phone in my hand now trying to connect , you need password he says , i say whats the password , he asks for the phone , i had it to him , he types it in and i have internet . the other guy asks if i need gas , i said sure fill it up . he says something as to how much i have no idea what kind of money , them camp wanted 10 euro . i open my valet , there is now hungarian forint , serbian dinero , bosnian mark , euro , croatian kuna , i have no clue what to pay this guy with , so i just show him all the money i got and tell him to pik what he needs . i have no clue what they saying , albanian is like chinese with oriental accent to me . no clue . so the guy goes thu my valet , and says leke leke , oh well shit apparently i dont have your kind of money , so i say euro euro euro , the wifi password guy is laughing . i pay 39 euro . we are trying to communicate , they wanna know why my bike is muddy and where am i going , so i say tet , they like ooooh tet ok cool tet , they talking about something and i am pretty sure neither one of us know what we are talking about . oh man albania is gonna be fun .
friend asked me how old that bridge was . i had no clue , but its definitely older than america .
i load up the tet and decide to head north , no clue what out there , but i kinda wanna go back north . ride thru towns , they dealing with everything and anything out on the street , food , tools , autoparts , street is life . that road ouf town follows a creek , the water is crystal clear blue and the mountains are starting to show .
pavement ends . ok , here we go .
the road is very rocky , i have to go slow , it still follows the creek but climbing the mountains now , cliff down cliff up . its beautiful. there is an old wooden suspension bridge across the creek . the water is beautiful , i almost wanna take a swim , but i am too curious as to where think goes so i keep rollin .
somewhere up there in the mountain cross roads , a bar , i have to stop in . simple building , old , build of stone and wood
. the only speak albanian , no english , no german , no russian , no slovakian no nothing . albanian only . so we use handsignals . he pulls the beers ut of the cooler , i point on which one i want and that it . one euro . thats universal language .
they saying something , i am sitting with the bartender and the old dude behind table , he would like me to have a shot of moonshine with him , i kindly refuse , they want to know where i am going . i say tet . they point this direction tet , this way . i finish beer , shake hands with them and i go . adv riding rating 10 of 10 , views , challenges , inclines . its awesome .
i come up to road sign . it says theth . now it clicked . i am an idiot . you know the guy at the gas station , and they guy at the bar ? they were talking about theth national park , and my dumbass thought they knew about tet . kinda reminds me when i first emigrated to america , no clue what people were talking about . i cant stop laughing . this is adventure . with that being said theth national park is beautiful .
they run electric wires on sticks , like they d cut all the limbs off the tree and hang a wire on it . there is cell service . the very top of the mountain has a cell tower that runs on generator . i just got a text from work on my sprint phone .
the bike is starting to load , up , it feels like the elevation is affecting so i dont pay to much attention to it . pavenement began , stopped in town ( or whatever was left of it ) and had coffee . really good coffee . the paved road lasted for about 100 yards . cool . i wont see pavement for long time . they have hotels , bars , restaurants in there , all on dirt road , in the mountain . you have to do two mountain passes and drop down about 1k meters before you see paved roads . they drop off all tourist there and shuttle them up to theth in awd busses and range rovers and whatever clunker that they have that can make the mountain pass . there is old chinese buldozer sitting on top of the pass .
once on paved , theres gas , camping , anything you want . i stop for dinner .
as far as all the animals go , i ve seen everything from chickens , to cows , goats , sheeps , rabbits even pigs . pig roast anyone ?
that bike dont run good even off the mountain . its loading up pretty bad , uhm , screw it , fires up n goes .
back to montenegro i guess , there is a canyon 100kms long i have to go check it out .
podgorica is another rich poor contrast . lots of expensive cars with new york license plates . i rode by a benz suv and they were getting in and i yelled brooklyn as i was passing by , they were smiling and waved . i took the road that follows the canyon , got lost few times , the road is marked with scenic 4 . in english . on top of the canyon there is giant metal eagle , right next to it white cross and jesus . overlooking the canyon . this is what it says under the eagle
i load the tet tracks for crna gora , and i think i am actually on it . cool . lets ride .