Leaving Akureyri for a second time, with a forecast for good weather an opportunity to collect more stars in the south. The F821 claimed my first drop on the trip, into this stream! Very embarrassing as it was so small, but a large rock bounced the bike up and tipped it. No picture as the tankbag with the DSLR went straight under and I immediately went about rescuing it before it was too late. My left pannier also got submerged. The F821 is a very pretty but challenging track for motorbikes, due to the stream often running down the riding track, and hiding large rocks. Take your time. Now to join the F26. The front shouldn't be that flat. Michelin's ultra heavy duty inner tubes too! The spare tube wasn't as 'ultra', so to reduce the chance of another flat I tried running it at 25psi. It was terrible. Back down to 20 and less speed. The F26 has a number of river crossings but the dry weather meant that these were trivial. Towards the bottom of the F26 the road has been graded, which looks great but actually is very washboarded and full of marble size rocks. The bike slides around on these, which can be challenge if the exposed landscape features a strong side wind - you end up riding diagonally. Heading to star 8, the winds were getting very high. That lake shouldn't have any waves. When I went to get out my sleeping bag and pillow I found the reason why the back of the bike had been handling a bit strangely. It was carrying about 10 litres of water from my drop, but so has my sleeping bag and stove! I used the bike as a clothes horse and dried out the bag whilst I went to experience star 8 - Landmannalaugar hot springs! So hot it was uncomfortable in places, but what a lovely way to end the day's aches from riding and changing a tire.