Increase Alternator Output

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sherloc, Aug 22, 2019.

  1. sherloc

    sherloc Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2015
    Oddometer:
    179
    Location:
    KCMO
    Yep.. both. I’m measuring the max loads, gloves add .2v to the equation. Pillion doesn’t have heated grips, so the need is there. For me, I’ve ridden distance in the low 20 degree F range, and have less then Ideal circulation in my hands. Also, not all my bikes have heated grips. I don’t care for the muffs.

    YMMV
    #21
    SmittyBlackstone and Johann like this.
  2. sherloc

    sherloc Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2015
    Oddometer:
    179
    Location:
    KCMO
    Enjoy the trip!
    #22
  3. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2004
    Oddometer:
    9,135
    Location:
    Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
    any re-wind or aftermarket stator is a roll of the dice. you will usually lose in the long run. in my opinion, power management is the key. I could be wrong... but I really don't think so.
    #23
    SmittyBlackstone and Arbolmano like this.
  4. PeterW

    PeterW Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,242
    Location:
    Gold Coast
    It's possible KTM is already using them, the newer MOSFET regulators as on the latest DL1000's. They still aren't as efficient as they could be but they are better than the SCR based ones, less of the power gets dumped back into the stator at least so you get more watts out and a bit more margin WRT burning out windings.
    #24
    SmittyBlackstone likes this.
  5. nickguzzi

    nickguzzi Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,979
    Location:
    below the sea
    Yup, the Shendingen mosfet RR's are supposedly more efficient , especially at lower revs. Which is what you are looking for.
    https://www.roadstercycle.com/ is reputed to be a reliable supplier. Yo can come across an OEM fitment on an old bike - likely a Yamaha.

    While some of the mods suggested above could bring about an improvement, they are also pushing the envelope closer to the edge where failure will be likely. You can't beat the Laws of Nature. Magnetic flux intensity, number/area of conductors and the speed at which one crosses the other is all you have to play with. Ask Maxwell.

    Other than that, reduce your consumption, which is easy nowadays with LEDs so cheap.

    I'm with Johann, a pair of bar muffs will keep your hands toasty with no electrical overheads at all. I have used the same set for the last 30+years, strap them on start of the rainy season (another benefit) and only the cheapest winter gloves will be necessary to keep your hands warm. Zero failure modes either.
    #25
    SmittyBlackstone likes this.
  6. Woody2627

    Woody2627 Grey Wobbler

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    5,822
    Location:
    Jindabyne
    As most power companies are finding, it's much easier to reduce demand than increase supply. Cut back on your consumption, if you want heated gear, get heated gear with its own battery. Replace lights with leds.
    #26
  7. bomose

    bomose Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,418
    Location:
    Dixie
    If it's Custom Rewind in Birmingham , Alabama, the phone number is (205) 798-7282. They are also on Facebook.
    #27
  8. dravnx

    dravnx Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    637
    Location:
    santa rosa, ca
    Manage your loads. Do you really need to have everything on at all times? Do you really need heated grips, heated gloves, Darlas at 100 and high beams? It's OK to have a bit of low voltage for short periods of time.
    #28
    SmittyBlackstone likes this.
  9. cagiva549

    cagiva549 whats a cagiva

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2004
    Oddometer:
    6,197
    Location:
    Cypress Tx
    Two 950 KTM s , two failed factory stator one custome rewind stator 10 years old in the second bike and still preforming like new . And I think it was a Suzuki or something a few years back that had something like 50% failure rate without extra loads . We won’t even get into the Honda gold wing 1200 stator failure rate , something like 75% and required removal of the motor to replace . I’ll go with an aftermarket stator in a second over factory at half the price almost everytime .
    #29
  10. sherloc

    sherloc Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2015
    Oddometer:
    179
    Location:
    KCMO
    Again, the data above is for testing, looking at the worst case scenarios. And yes, my riding can include cold dark nights on narrow 2 lanes, 2 up, in at or very near freezing temps. In this scenario RPM’s can be on the lower end, and the electrical Load is high. Designing for my use case, not the average.

    With the KTM stock system, you currently you can’t run the high beam and driving lights @100% at the same time.. without the additional heat loads at low RPM. The added light on a dark narrow road was the primary motivation for the added lights.

    Appreciate all of the feedback, after testing I have a better idea of what loads can run together and which need to be off to allow the others. Plan is to ADD a switched relay circuit to add the non OEM loads to, so it’s easy to shut them off in the use case where it’s too much load.

    Getting a precision rewind is also an option, as the OEM unit is most likely built to a cost, and could be improved by “blueprinting” the rotor to it’s spec’s, instead of the manufacturing tolerance. If I gain 15-10 percent with the rewind, I’d be happy. That, and LED to reduce th headlight load (which is what started the deep dive) should get me the range and reliability I’m looking to achieve.

    YMMV

    Ride Safe!
    #30
    SmittyBlackstone likes this.
  11. PeterW

    PeterW Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,242
    Location:
    Gold Coast
    Fit a voltmeter and change down a gear when it starts dropping. Yeah you'll burn more fuel but if you are freezing to death in the dark, who cares.
    #31
    SmittyBlackstone likes this.
  12. sherloc

    sherloc Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2015
    Oddometer:
    179
    Location:
    KCMO
    Bike has a voltmeter, with the full load even rev’s don’t help.. volts still drop.
    #32
  13. cagiva549

    cagiva549 whats a cagiva

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2004
    Oddometer:
    6,197
    Location:
    Cypress Tx
    I bet you when you look at your stator it will have a burned spot on it . Eliminate the plugs in the wiring between the stator and rectifier too , all solder connectouns with 12 gauge wires on mine and quality wires between the battery and rectifier . If you want quality preformance it has to be of quality construction . That is not the current trend in manufacturing .
    #33
    Johann and SmittyBlackstone like this.
  14. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2014
    Oddometer:
    2,531
    What all are you using that consumes your total budget? Seems like a good bit of output.
    #34
  15. sherloc

    sherloc Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2015
    Oddometer:
    179
    Location:
    KCMO
    Headlights and Clearwater Erica’s + bike load. Wiring up the Erica’s is what started the the testing, which expanded to include all possible heated loads (vets\gloves 2x, see post from Friday).

    The Erica’s are wired to go 100% when the high beams are flicked on. Headlight’s draw 110w (55 2x) and Erica’s draw 60w at 100% (they use a dimmer on low beam). WITHOUT the added heat loads, the bike will no take the extra 170w load at idle, voltage just continues to drop. Goal is to be able to reliably run aux lights and other loads needed to run down a dark road in cool weather, without killing the battery. This thread is to explore the options to

    A: Reduce loads and\or use switch\relays to adjust load as necessary from the handlebars
    B:Increase available current supplied by the electrical system
    #35
  16. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2014
    Oddometer:
    2,531
    Does voltage drop below battery voltage?
    #36
  17. sherloc

    sherloc Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2015
    Oddometer:
    179
    Location:
    KCMO
    Yes, below 12,v.. will continue into the 11’s, until I shut off load..
    #37
  18. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2014
    Oddometer:
    2,531
    Any chance you have a bad cell on the battery or a low charging voltage for a lithium?
    #38
  19. sherloc

    sherloc Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2015
    Oddometer:
    179
    Location:
    KCMO
    New battery this spring, also had to replace the regulator. Regulator replacement made the voltage better, and will carry full stock load headlights\ heated grips\ high beam. Issue seems to be the 60w of the Erica’s and the 110w of the halogen headlights. Going to try LED bulbs, it’s reported they as ave ~50w, which may get me where I need to be.
    #39
  20. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,929
    Location:
    SW. Idaho
    many have an answer to Their problem, dont ride at night. i did something similar when our usb charger died in borneo. shut down the gps(phone) outside of the city. oem is the most reliable there is, use what you have. there are some alternatives to drls also.
    #40
    sherloc likes this.