India 2015: Delhi - Ladakh - Delhi

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by cristiano, Oct 30, 2015.

  1. cristiano

    cristiano Been here awhile

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    8/8/2015

    We arrive in Delhi in the evening. The impact is strong.
    It's hot, humid, the smell of the city certainly does not hide.
    We meet for dinner with some friends who have arrived there a few days before to make a trip as backpackers: their first impressions are not exciting and we go to bed a bit doubtful about what will happen the next days.
    It must be said that a few days before we left we read about several issues in the area:
    - Incidents of terrorism in Kashmir
    - Heavy rains in Ladakh, with many roads blocked by landslides
    - News of "taxi union" being aggressive towards motorbikes rented outside the region
    Well, not the best conditions

    9/8/2015

    It rains. A lot.

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    We walk to Karol Bagh, the motorcycles district, where we booked a 500 Enfield.
    Soaked with water, we find Tony Bike Centre and make the necessary arrangements to take our bike.
    In the moment we take the bike, our perception of the holiday changes and with it our mood, until then not really good.
    "We're on a new motorbike holiday! We will solve all the problems!"

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    10/8/2015

    We start in the late morning, destination Chandigarh.

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    Getting out of Delhi is not as dramatic as I thought, perhaps because we started, without knowing it, at a good time.
    The road is straight and boring, mostly easy.
    The evening in Chandigarh we have to decide: go towards Kashmir and turn clockwise or do exactly the opposite and go to Manali and then go back the other way?
    The situation in Kashmir seems still a little tense and go to Manali would allow us to meet some friends, who have departed before us, and who will be at the end of their trip, so they will be able to report us about road and weather conditions.
    Ok, Manali is the decision.

    11/8/2015

    We don't have time to get gas that breaks the monsoon

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    When it finally calms down we can depart.
    Coffee stop at a Dhaba

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    There is some traffic and the road is slow

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    We sleep in Bilaspur in what we find: a hotel not exactly cozy.

    12/8/2015

    From Bilaspur to Manali

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    Manali is a very touristic town, completely different from what we encountered so far.
    Everything here seems easy and manageable for the tourist.
    After the first days a little difficult, it is what we need.
    In the evening we meet with our friends and we receive all the needed advice: it seems that the holiday starts to take a turn for the better.

    13/8/2015

    Rest day in Manali.
    Some shopping, a visit to a couple of offices to get Rothang La permit, and finally, the sun is shining.

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    #1
    highnoonhunter likes this.
  2. SLACKER

    SLACKER Been here awhile Supporter

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    Looks like a brilliant trip...........I am guessing you have left India and posting pictures from your trip a few months ago?...........I would love to do something like this and perhaps I will !
    #2
  3. cristiano

    cristiano Been here awhile

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    14/8/2015

    The first part of the climb to the notorious Rohtang La (just under 4000 meters) may seem an road on the Alps

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    Then begins a dense fog and the terrain becomes more insidious until up to the pass, where, however, the Enfield arrives without any problem

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    Downhill we find the sun and we can begin to enjoy the scenery, but the road is not paved, sometimes insidious and muddy, so it is best to always pay attention

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    In Tandi there is the last gas station for 300-odd km, until just before Leh

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    When we are a few km from Jispa, our destination for the day, I realize that the forks of Enfield respond poorly.
    I look and one pisses oil.
    No problem: we find immediately a mechanic and do change oil and oil seals.

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    Then we continue to Jispa, where we find accommodation in a tented camp

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    #3
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  4. OnTheWay

    OnTheWay Rock Liu Supporter

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    Vastly enjoyed this, and the pictures fuel my desire to go there!
    #4
  5. Edmond Dantès

    Edmond Dantès The Kanto Pain

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    I am very interested in your report as you are pretty much following part of a route I had tentatively mapped out for a trip in March. The reality of the weather conditions in Spring, and the my unrealistic daily distances on Indian roads put on hold my plan to ride up in the mountains.

    I have a question, from Chandigarh en route to Manali you broke the trip up by staying at Bilaspur. Granted it would be impossible to ride the whole way from Chandigarh to Manali in a single day, but you didn't sound too keen on Bilaspur and it looks less than half way to Manali, thus leaving a lot of riding left to Manali on the second day.
    Did you go through any other places that would have been better in terms of accommodation, and for making the second day's riding less of a distance? Mandi perhaps?

    Looking forward to the rest of the RR.
    #5
  6. sambor1965

    sambor1965 Been here awhile

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    :drif

    Delhi was really wet. Nice RR, go on please ;)
    #6
  7. cristiano

    cristiano Been here awhile

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    Actually I think Chandigarh-Manali is doable in one very long day, if departing early.
    We departed late in the morning and stopped immediatly because of heavy rain, so that's why we stopped in Bilaspur.
    Don't know about accomodation in Mandi, but I imagine it can offer more than Bilaspur.
    Please note that the road Chandigarh-Mandi has more traffic and is in worst conditions than the Mandi-Manali part. The Kullu-Manali ride is easy, fast and enjoyable.
    #7
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  8. cristiano

    cristiano Been here awhile

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    It was great to meet you in Manali, Sambor!
    And it is good to see you back here on advrider :-)
    #8
  9. cristiano

    cristiano Been here awhile

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    15/8/2015

    We have some company for breakfast

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    Then is time to depart again

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    Some little difficult passage

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    but sometime is very easy

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    we pass BarlachaLa and we are almost at 5000 mt

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    some rest at a dhaba to buy some dry socks and a coffee

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    #9
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  10. highnoonhunter

    highnoonhunter Leathersmith

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    Enjoying this!
    #10
  11. Dragon88

    Dragon88 Adventurer

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    Keep it coming. Love these reports
    #11
  12. rogerdodger

    rogerdodger Been here awhile

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    Nice to see a recent Manali to Leh report. Doesn't look like its changed at all since i was there a few years ago. Hopefully I'll get back there again soon.
    #12
  13. flei

    flei cycletherapist

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    Cristiano- Yet another great report/photos from one of your amazing journeys! Thanks for posting.
    #13
  14. Wyomingrider

    Wyomingrider WyoRider

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    Great report ..... Please keep posting


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    #14
  15. Wyomingrider

    Wyomingrider WyoRider

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    By the way where are you from?


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    #15
  16. cristiano

    cristiano Been here awhile

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    I'm from Italy!

    Thanks to all! I'll be back with the writing and more pictures soon...
    #16
  17. Wyomingrider

    Wyomingrider WyoRider

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    Can't wait to see more! Great ride......I enjoy you both!


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    #17
  18. cristiano

    cristiano Been here awhile

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    then, after the Gata Loops, Nakeela and Lachungla, there is a change of scenery, and then we reach Pang, where we decide to stop for the night.

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    #18
  19. grizzzly

    grizzzly The Pre-Banned Version

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    :clap
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  20. Redkrouge

    Redkrouge Independent

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    Love it, keep going! :clap
    #20