8/8/2015 We arrive in Delhi in the evening. The impact is strong. It's hot, humid, the smell of the city certainly does not hide. We meet for dinner with some friends who have arrived there a few days before to make a trip as backpackers: their first impressions are not exciting and we go to bed a bit doubtful about what will happen the next days. It must be said that a few days before we left we read about several issues in the area: - Incidents of terrorism in Kashmir - Heavy rains in Ladakh, with many roads blocked by landslides - News of "taxi union" being aggressive towards motorbikes rented outside the region Well, not the best conditions 9/8/2015 It rains. A lot. We walk to Karol Bagh, the motorcycles district, where we booked a 500 Enfield. Soaked with water, we find Tony Bike Centre and make the necessary arrangements to take our bike. In the moment we take the bike, our perception of the holiday changes and with it our mood, until then not really good. "We're on a new motorbike holiday! We will solve all the problems!" 10/8/2015 We start in the late morning, destination Chandigarh. Getting out of Delhi is not as dramatic as I thought, perhaps because we started, without knowing it, at a good time. The road is straight and boring, mostly easy. The evening in Chandigarh we have to decide: go towards Kashmir and turn clockwise or do exactly the opposite and go to Manali and then go back the other way? The situation in Kashmir seems still a little tense and go to Manali would allow us to meet some friends, who have departed before us, and who will be at the end of their trip, so they will be able to report us about road and weather conditions. Ok, Manali is the decision. 11/8/2015 We don't have time to get gas that breaks the monsoon When it finally calms down we can depart. Coffee stop at a Dhaba There is some traffic and the road is slow We sleep in Bilaspur in what we find: a hotel not exactly cozy. 12/8/2015 From Bilaspur to Manali Manali is a very touristic town, completely different from what we encountered so far. Everything here seems easy and manageable for the tourist. After the first days a little difficult, it is what we need. In the evening we meet with our friends and we receive all the needed advice: it seems that the holiday starts to take a turn for the better. 13/8/2015 Rest day in Manali. Some shopping, a visit to a couple of offices to get Rothang La permit, and finally, the sun is shining.