JacO's 04 KTM 950 Build

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by JacoBeRacing, Jan 19, 2019.

  1. DiggerD

    DiggerD DougFir from SuperDuke Days

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2013
    Oddometer:
    5,593
    Location:
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    I did the high fender up date after being stuck in the mud with the stock low fender.
    Had to remove the fender, zip tye the cables out of harm way and my bud had to walk in front of me cutting the mud away so the mud would not rip the brake lines off.
    Used two stock brake lines the same length and ran them both all the from the calipers to the master with out any manifold.
    A friend added a manifold on his high fender conversion and gave me his stock long line.
    I used the long banjo screw used on the doubled up lines on the caliper to attach both lines together on the master.
    Very happy with it's set up...seriously thinking of doing the same to my 990 and 86ing the anti work brakes.
    #41
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  2. DiggerD

    DiggerD DougFir from SuperDuke Days

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2013
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    P7270005.JPG
    #42
  3. MAXVERT

    MAXVERT O.G. on da O.C.

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    Oddometer:
    2,583
    Location:
    Baja Arizona
    " anti work brakes" is a great description of the abs system on the 990's . I've pulled them on all three 990's
    I've owned .

    Max
    #43
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  4. JacoBeRacing

    JacoBeRacing Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    Oddometer:
    44
    Well a lot has happened since I last updated, thread still hasnt been moved like I requested, but thats okay! I will just keep on keeping on.

    The first "work" that I did since I got this thing over to our new home is install the Dynamic Motorcycle Accessories extended rear luggage rack and passenger back rest, awesome quality stuff and looks the part. The kit comes with a couple spacers in case you didn't have a luggage rack. Even though I have a luggage rack I still used the spacers because there was some clearance issues between the adjuster bolts for the back rest and my luggage rack. The spacers eliminated that. Here's a couple photos before and after:

    Lihzg58 - Imgur.jpg IRDSK9o - Imgur.jpg al7vBDU - Imgur.jpg

    After that I finished the cannisterectomy. I capped off the two intake ports on the left side and rerouted the ones on the other side for easy access for future carb syncing as seen below:
    4dY1i7C - Imgur.jpg saPmZGP - Imgur.jpg

    I also installed the battery box, and secured all of the hoses/wiring around the battery box. For some reason that was really intimidating to me haha, I had no idea where everything went, but it was clear once I started to put things back on.
    #44
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  5. JacoBeRacing

    JacoBeRacing Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    Oddometer:
    44
    Then I plugged the extra hole in the airbox, replaced one of the lower intake seals, installed and routed the new drain hoses, and put the airbox and carbs back on (what a major pain in the ass...) Took me like an hour to work my hands and tools in there to pull the drain hoses out etc...

    L2p1hVg - Imgur.jpg LHMoIFO - Imgur.jpg 467z4qW - Imgur.jpg

    Lastly, I soldered in a new 10W2Ohm resistor for the handwarmers cause the original one broke at some point. Covered it up nicely with shrink wrap and got toasty hands now!
    Np1kc5I - Imgur.jpg
    #45
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  6. JacoBeRacing

    JacoBeRacing Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    Oddometer:
    44
    Once all that was done I finally installed the gas tanks and all of the gas lines/wires etc... all fell into place. I realized however that the fuel pump wasn't making any noise, but the relay was tripping on and off as it should, so I took apart the fuel pump and saw that the contacts were super dirty and very worn. I cleaned them with some fine grit sand paper and a little brake clean, tested it off of the bike, and it worked great. I dont like that ancient design, so I did some research on the HOW and I think I am going to install Dr. Beans solid state switch at some point. Pictures below are before and after of the fuel pump contacts.

    YMFy2JI - Imgur.jpg mKYscxH - Imgur.jpg

    Once the fuel pump was working, I pulled out the oil filter (look at how disgusting it was), installed a new K&N oil filter, filled it with coolant and oil, primed the pump until it stopped making noise and viola, it freaking fired up!!

    9ReyF06 - Imgur.jpg

    It sat for so long it was nearly completely dry, so when it first started up there was a lot of mechanical slapping sounds, but that quickly quieted down after the oil saturated everything. I checked the battery to make sure the stator and R/R combo were working properly, and sure enough the battery was charging at around 14.5 volts. Now that the oil and gas courses through its veins, it runs like a champ!
    #46
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  7. JacoBeRacing

    JacoBeRacing Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    Oddometer:
    44
    Now that the stress of not knowing whether this bike would ever run again was gone, I was so excited to finally get to ride it again so I quickly tackled the rest of the high fender mod so that I could take it out for a spin. I carefully heated the third mounting point on the fork guard with my new butane torch (used the hot blower tip) and slowly stretched it using a variety of different tools. At first I used a 6mm socket on an extension cause it fit in the hole perfectly. Then I used a screw driver through the hole up against the fork leg and pried it back. That worked pretty good, but you have to be careful you dont use too much force. Then I threaded in a bolt with washers so that it would flatten back out. I finished it off by using a drill bit about the size of the original hole and cleaned it up so you could fit a new fender bolt in there. Worked great! The ABS plastic that I heated is still very strong and basically as thick as the other mounting points. I am so glad it worked out! Pictures below:

    n2Q8wVB - Imgur.jpg ycSmtHe - Imgur.jpg

    Now the more difficult part, figuring out how to mount the new brake lines. The top was easy enough, I secured them just like this.

    A0ODB3Y - Imgur.jpg

    My goal was to not have to have ridiculously long brake lines or any loops. The left side was pretty easy, I just routed it exactly how it was from the factory and zip tied the speedo sensor to the brake line. I have since gone back and added a couple zip ties securing the speedo sensor wire to the brake line bracket and brake line itself. I also added the small wire retainer as another means to secure the speedo cable as shown below:

    ram0WK5 - Imgur.jpg q15wvwE - Imgur.jpg

    I thought the right side was going to be straight forward, but it proved to be difficult. I routed it like this to start with using the bracket suggested in the HOW:

    nhCLN8f - Imgur.jpg

    I bled the brakes real good and went out for my first test ride. The bike ran amazing and everything worked as it should. However; when I got home and looked over the bike I saw that the right brake line rubbed pretty good on the front tire, all the way through the rubber coating in one small spot. So I knew I had to change up the mounting. I pretty much wanted to copy the left side. I had an extra one of those brake line brackets so I went to work bending and manipulating it till it would sit in a similar spot as the left one (harder than it looks). Since there is no lower threaded hole to mount the bracket like there is on the left side, I started by bending and cutting off a bunch of the material to where it would sit at the same height. Then I had to do some more bending so that the spot where you put the rubber retainer was sitting at the right angle. This was the end result:

    c6ReAIK - Imgur.jpg

    Seeing as I wanted to copy cat the left side, I had to also make a retainer for the right fork guard since it did not have one. I ended up using the one from the OEM fender and "fabricated" a couple black plastic washers with a dremel to fit as spacers. It worked pretty great! I ran the brake lines from the master cylinder straight down the right side of the right fork and secured it in two spots to the fork. Then it goes straight to the fork guard retainer and to the brake line bracket on the caliper. I put the painters tape on there as a quick check to see if the line ever rubs over the next few rides. So far, after two rides it has not.

    2vhQ11e - Imgur.jpg 7yd5ukp - Imgur.jpg RWs16GK - Imgur.jpg

    I think this routing is pretty safe. There is plenty of line to flex with the suspension and its routed in such a way that when the suspension does compress, the line bow's outwards to the front of the bike, rather than inwards towards the tire.
    #47
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  8. JacoBeRacing

    JacoBeRacing Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    Oddometer:
    44
    I have a few parts on order still. I realized the other day that I need to replace the rear brake master cylinder, and I ordered a new banjo bolt switch as well because I figured the switch is probably bad since the brake light wasn't working when the rear brake was applied and the wires looked fine. Other than that, just replace some missing fairing fasteners/washers and install the crash bars again and we will be set. Before I take off on any long rides I want to install the Dr. Bean solid state fuel pump switch as that is much more reliable then the OEM design.

    Oh, and does any one know if I need to plug these connectors on each of the tanks? Or run drain lines off of them?

    ZkSSCsd - Imgur.jpg

    If you guys have any suggestions/comments, throw them my way!

    Here are some pictures of the bike as it sits now:

    9HTjDHy - Imgur.jpg

    (new license plate bracket too)

    xDZJeZb - Imgur.jpg
    #48
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  9. DiggerD

    DiggerD DougFir from SuperDuke Days

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    "Oh, and does any one know if I need to plug these connectors on each of the tanks? Or run drain lines off of them?"

    Tank vent hose fitting. All depends how much time your bike lays on it's side. If you are out in bum fook Egypt, you will want to slow the gas leakage down as much as possible.
    What I did along with others is connect the tanks together, make a loop up thru your head light area, T together at highest point, and run a drain line down in front. Some what a pain in the b-hind. The removable side fairings are used to run the hose thru.
    Look at the first photo on post #50 for the vent line end on the right, behind the crash bar, hiding in the shadow.
    Oh joy.
    I took some photos of my high fender kit I came up with. Enjoy.
    PB290062.JPG PB290066.JPG PB290067.JPG PB290068.JPG
    #49
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  10. DiggerD

    DiggerD DougFir from SuperDuke Days

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    PB290069.JPG PB290070.JPG PB290071.JPG PB290072.JPG
    #50
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  11. DiggerD

    DiggerD DougFir from SuperDuke Days

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    PB290073.JPG PB290074.JPG
    #51
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  12. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Oddometer:
    6,505
    Location:
    West of the West, Oregon
    Brake line day ja voo.

    Here's the manifold I made for the dual brake high fender project.

    IMG_20160412_174157984_HDR.jpg IMG_20160412_174211088_HDR.jpg
    Notice my large 'washer' for the fork protectors.
    #52
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  13. JacoBeRacing

    JacoBeRacing Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    Oddometer:
    44

    That’s good looking! Good idea to use your buddies stock brake line. I just noticed that the right fork leg third mounting hole for the fork guard is stripped out now :’(. I think I’ll bring it to this local guru for repair eventually.
    #53
  14. JacoBeRacing

    JacoBeRacing Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
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    That’s real clean! Nice work. I like that metal bracket for the fork guards too.
    #54
  15. Salzig

    Salzig Long timer

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    Oct 17, 2008
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    1,589
    Location:
    Cremona, Italy
    That oil filter looks a bit wavy.
    I'd keep an eye on the coolant level, you may be due for a water pump overhaul.
    #55