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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Just Dan, Oct 10, 2010.
Not even close Tom i checked.
Have you considered molding the plastic bits in fiberglass and then making replica parts from carbon fiber? It would sure be strong and unique......and not really much more complicated than fiberglass....
I work in the the middle of an industrial park as a professional CT110 rider. An having a tool passion as well. I was in at Nubco today, as they are having a sale. On the things cheap. I came home a couple pairs of tight fitting rubberised work gloves for $3.50 a pair. Good for doing servicing or working with hot bits.
Dropped in to the local Radum store after that and picked a 3.5 gallon parts washer. Would have liked the 20 gallon one. Also looking at their self standing sand blasting cabinet. Andy was talking about going half's in one. Between us we have enough bikes that need blasting. Looking into soda blasting the engine cases on the Tenere.
Last stop was the shop that sells POR15 products. Checking out single and 2 pack polyurethane clears (very shiny and durable). Be excellent on high use areas like fork leg lowers etc.
One step forward and 2 steps back on things Tenere. I thought, I might have found through Boats.net. A OEM spoke set for the Tenere at a reasonable price. Boat.net replied that Yamaha had them on back order, bugger. Also thought I found a set of new gold rims for a good price. Had a closer look at the details. The rear rim was a 3" x17 instead of 18, double bugger. Looks like Hagon in the UK might come to the rescue with some butted polished stainless steel spokes.
The thrill of the chase is half or most of the fun.
Your dead right on that Dan, almost like fly fishing
Hi Dan that top end was looking good, you sound the type a person to take it apart to the final screw, which is best, good luck. Like to know if you come right with spokes and tell me where did source the plastic h/light shell from in SA? Cheers
Yep the engine will coming fully apart. I looking into soda blasting the cases before painting the outside. PO15 make a black paint that goes on the inside of engine cases.
Hagon in the UK are the only place so far, I have found that have the spokes. The details you need to know about the front spokes are. Length 245mm, Gauge 8/10, spoke head angle of 90 deg, nipple size .275" or 7mm.
I bought the 43F headlight cowl off Montclair Motorcycles http://stores.ebay.com.au/Montclair-Motorcycles?_rdc=1
I don't think much of motorcycle mags. I do subscribe to Classic Motorcycle Mechanics http://www.classicmechanics.com/ A mag dedicated to restoring 70's & 80's motorcycles. Lots of good how to's and great ads. When looking for parts.
Would be intrested to see how you do the soda blasting. Do you buy a kit or have you a home set up already ?
Why paint the inside of the case ?
You can get 'em here too, ordered mine today
I got a quote from Hagon about 6 months ago for my wheels, seem to remember they were pretty expensive..
Aluminium can be porous, and over a period of time the oil impregnates the aluminium surface. All air head BMW's are not painted and they go a dark grey. To help stop that. Some manufactures paint the inside of there cases to help stop the oil weeping through. I hope I don't have to use any casing paint. I just checking it out while a the paint store. It is called Glyptal 1209 gloss black. A little info here http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-enamel-set.html.
Any form of blasting is a messy business. I have been grit blasting in a large plastic bag. That is ok for one or two items that are small in size. The list of parts that need blasting is growing over several bikes. Andy and I are looking at buying one of these.
The media sits inside the booth on a lower level and a tray on top to hold the part on top. It is big enough to put reasonable size parts in.
Thanks Geoff, I had a look at that site. A few people on ADV have said they can be on the slow side to deliver. I did find an American site that made spoke as well. Should have book marked it:huh
Also had a "please explain" from the wife. Wanted to know why the Tenere parts had invaded her freezer Quite normal in my book.
I can see the lower triple tree, but what is that part on the left?
Enjoying watching your build,I have a 550 that I should be starting shortly.
:dg Road kill. While back outing of the garage early in the morning to go to work. Wallabies are sleeping on the concrete drive way.
Good god Dan, you need to go shopping, your fridge is empty.... :huh when I put bike stuff in ours I have to cram it in.....
Your going to have to explain what a "Please Explain" is Dan.
I know, I know. First sign of an addiction. Is stop buying food. Hence the road kill reference.
We have so much fresh food here in Tas. Not many people here use freezers here. An it is so cold out side most of the year. Just leave it outside your back door.
To make a fiberglass mold you need a clean original. But that original can be made to have a clean molding surface with body filler etc. then just sand and paint it smooth, smoother the better.
After you've got a working master apply a mold release to it, apply gel coat, and then start laying up fiberglass to create a negative mold of the part. You need to build the mold reasonably thick so it's stiff and retains it's shape. For larger or more complex shapes you can use wood stiffening ribs.
When you've got the mold done then you do the reverse to make parts from it. Apply gel coat to the mold surface and start laying up fiberglass to create your part from the mold. When the part is cured just trim it to match the original.
People have been pulling molds from car bodies etc. like this for decades. If you do a google search there is a ton of info and videos on it.
For the small parts like headlight surrounds, side panels etc. it doesn't really matter that much if they are made from the original plastics, they simply need to look right from the outside and be sturdy. Honestly the fiberglass will probably last longer than the original plastic. Anybody remember back when Bultacos, Ducatis, Rickmans, etc. came with fiberglass body work?
You can get spokes and rims from Buchanan's Spoke & Rim in the USA.
A decent blast cabinet is the only way to go if you are going to do more than few pieces. I started out "the messy way" also, then small cabinets, I finally bought the larger version blast cabinet for my business. It just so "happens" that many motorcycle parts seem to fit inside of it, LOL.
One thing about blasting, you need a good air compressor with a good dryer to keep up. If there is too much moisture in the compressed air it will tend to clog up the nozzle etc. There is a wide range of grits available to produce different finishes. A lot of people like crushed walnut shells etc. for a finer polish type finish.
Happiness is a $50 parts washer.
Nice bit of kit there Dan Looking like go with the knock off version that looks very similar. Andy Gadget uses a lot of walnut shells, when he is at sea on gas ships. After a limited use of grit. I am over it and what to move on to another media. Hence soda or walnut for use on engine parts.