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Kawasaki 650 Thinja notes; parts bin build

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by dentvet, Jan 23, 2011.

  1. 4play

    4play Next?

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    It'll never come close to the KTM for hauling the mail in gnarly offroad, with 14" of Pete Russell tuned suspension & just under 300lbs full of fuel & tools. The horsepower is about the same, but delivered totally different. On the other hand, I wouldn't even consider taking the KTM on a cross country trip that the Thinja can do with ease. I've put 200 miles on it including running errands today & the ergos are a bit funky, but I'm really digging the bike. Part of what kicked this off was my wife mentioned she would like to go on an occaisional ride, we used to cruise a bit but she lost interest. This bike is capable of the two up runs & yet it's something I will enjoy riding when she doesn't want to go. AZ has so many trails to explore that occaisionally we pop out 100 miles from the trucks and it's getting dark. Having the option of comfortably slabbing back to the trucks (or home with this thing) will be nice.

    It begins :evil

    [​IMG]
  2. dentvet

    dentvet Long timer

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    I was thinking of shortening the mount stand-off and tweaking/bending the crash bar inwards, or making an oversize folding brake lever.

    At least you quit riding it before you snapped the pegs off:d
  3. 2fast4u

    2fast4u What the hell!

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    4play i have a rat bike too, and hit a big wash out at about 40 mph. Got the front end over but the rear took a hard hit. My bike is running the stock ninja wheels and the rear has a flat spot from the hit. It also cracked the motor where it bolts to the front motor mount. Just letting you know so you can check.
  4. 4play

    4play Next?

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    Yeah, this was nothing that violent, proper suspension would have soaked it up in stride. Hopefully I'll have it closer in a few weeks.
  5. 13.1

    13.1 Shaken not Stirred Supporter

    Joined:
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    Can't remember from his build exactly.
    But the front end was very dirt capable KTM best I recall

    But what was the rear?

    .
  6. 4play

    4play Next?

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    The front is 43mm WP's off a KTM400SXm the rear was stock with the addition of a Honda F4i shock like Sanjoh had.

    The way it was set up was actually pretty good, & would be fine for a lot of people. I just want MORE :evil

    KTMKLX got 7.625" with his 1" extended swing arm & R-1 shock. I'm expecing just over 8" with a 2" extension and the inner fender mods.
    Well dampened that should do nicely.
  7. 4play

    4play Next?

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    I mocked up the R1 shock & did a little measuring. With the stock swingarm measuring from the back of the axle slot, I got 7.375" of travel with the rubber bumper compressed using a ratchet strap from the swingarm to the frame. With a 3" added (by vice gripping a scale back three inches from the back of the slot) I measured 8.125"
    None of this is taking into account fender clearance, but with a simular inner fender mod as KTMKLX I think I can clear an 18" Knobby at full compression. The swing arm is not hitting the exhaust or hanger with the shock extended.

    I don't know if I really want to add 3"
  8. sanjoh

    sanjoh Purveyor of Light

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    Hey I resemble that remark:D
  9. 4play

    4play Next?

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    More travel study, even with a worn out knobby, this setup will hit the seat latch crossmember with an 18" rear wheel. I'm likely going to remove this crossmember & come up with a different seat latch or just bolt it from the rear pad. A 17" wheel and shorter tire would not need this.
    Other people have worried about the bike bottoming on the muffler.
    No worries on that.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  10. 4play

    4play Next?

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    This how I'm planning to cut the donor swingarm, the original will be cut off at the back of the axle slot. I'll likely add some kind of gusset.

    The paper shows the plus 2.5" length. Opinions on how I'm splicing this are welcome. Thanks

    [​IMG]
  11. BRE

    BRE Been here awhile Supporter

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    I think that is a very good way to make the splice, cutting that finger out as part of the back section should add strength.
  12. 4play

    4play Next?

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    [​IMG]

    Still trying to decide how to gusset...
  13. 4play

    4play Next?

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    [​IMG]

    That outa do it, maybe something on the bottom..
  14. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    I assume you used the full length of the straight section,form a horizonal vee cutout where the former axle cutout is from the top radius to the center then bottem radius to center,this will add additional weld surface and stiffness.
    You have already created a double walled swingarm,the gusset not necessary.
  15. 4play

    4play Next?

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    It's not double wall, the red and silver are seperate pieces, no overlap.
  16. 13.1

    13.1 Shaken not Stirred Supporter

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    Pull out the red piece and show us the entire length of it,
    Or show on the silver colored swingarm, how deep the red piece goes.

    .
  17. 4play

    4play Next?

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  18. 4play

    4play Next?

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    One more trail fit with the extensions tacked.

    [​IMG]

    For a full 18" knobby, I will need to remove at least the center of the seat latch crossmember. There is right at 8" of travel from the swing arm bottomed on the muffler to the tire touching the crossmember.

    [​IMG]
  19. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    What about a solid insert,could be drilled out to lighten or left as is.
  20. 4play

    4play Next?

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    You can't do that because of the adjuster blocks that go inside the swing arm. I took my tacked up swingarm to a very talented welder/fabricator to properly tig weld. He's going to use the top gussets & add some lower gussets where the swing arm is in tension. I hate to farm anything out, but as critical as this joint is & the fact that it's very thin sheet metal I decided I had plenty of other things to hone my welding skills on.

    I'm laying out the footpegs now, KTMKLX's setup is nice, but I've decided to keep the SW Mototech gaurds, which prevents moving the brake & shifter forward.