Kawasaki Versys-X 300

Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by shyam334, Nov 8, 2016.

  1. 7thson

    7thson "I went into the woods because...."

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    Thanks Ken:
    My authorized Kaw service manager must have attended the same school as yours. Maybe there is a lingering "hands-on" knowledge based of over 20 years experience with the valve lash in the Ninja 300 engine? I guess I'll go a couple 1000 more miles (9-10K) until Fall riding ends here in Maine, then bring it in for the valve adjustment & put it up for the winter. No way do I want to tackle this job my self, I'll stick riding it & keeping the chain healthy!
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  2. Ken in Regina

    Ken in Regina Long timer Supporter

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    Yes, my service manager was quite clear that in his experience they rarely if ever needed adjustment that early. However, it only takes one and in this case it was mine, unfortunately. I agree that I would rather ride than wrench. other than normal maintenance. If it took them most of 4 hours I'm thinking I would have spent the whole day or more likely most of the weekend with my luck. :-)

    ...ken...
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  3. whisperquiet

    whisperquiet Motorcyclist Supporter

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  4. SoManyFish

    SoManyFish Been here awhile

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    It is not difficult. Simply following the instructions in the Service Manual. In addition to a regular mechanic's tool set you will need a set of metric feeler gauges and a 0-25 mm micrometer. Tip: use a small rare earth magnet to remove the bucket and shim simultaneously without fear of dropping the shim in the engine (been there, done that ... LOL) -- I use one like this that I stole from the frideg: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=42359&cat=1,42363
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  5. Ken in Regina

    Ken in Regina Long timer Supporter

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    I have a bunch of them, different sizes, in the shop. They're also handy for fishing metal things out of tight spaces after you drop them!

    ...ken...
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  6. flexiflyer

    flexiflyer Been here awhile

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    Finally got around to mounting my other toolbox (did 1 last year to see how I liked them before getting both) and keying to match. If you have Givi racks these are nice and an efficient use of the wasted space.

    IMG_7665.JPG IMG_7666.JPG
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  7. gorilla2891

    gorilla2891 Been here awhile

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    I just installed this on my girls bike. It's for a ninja 300. I made an extension bracket out of aluminum to mount band clamp. It sounded amazing but was too loud and lost torque so we ran stock muffler until I mounted it up with baffle/spark arrestor from my xr650l. It sounds awesome and pulls harder! Can pass easily in 6th without down shifting

    Attached Files:

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  8. blackgaard

    blackgaard Adventurer

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    Interesting... I have actually been thinking about exhaust, but true to character, I am probably over-thinking it. What I really want is to move where the can is so that it is not in the way of a set of Tusk side cases.

    Crappy transparent mock up estimating size:
    2019-08-24.png

    Don't really want to go lower, and I would think all that plastic would not like having the pipe tucked up next to it like this:
    (WSM Adventure, sweet boutique bike by some guy in NH, uses Ducati L1100 yet weighs less than our bikes)
    2019-08-24.png

    Without getting too crazy (or melting anything), is seems like there is some room for a smaller can up and inward a little, but may be a little tricky with the rear brake reservoir:
    2019-08-24.jpg

    Would just need an extended and curved length of pipe, maybe 8" or so, and a bracket that could just be part of the side case racks (I'm considering fabbing my own racks some time in the winter anyway). All of this is just because I don't want to spoil how narrow the bike is - I would like the boxes to not be wider than the handlebars.

    Just kinda "spitballing" this idea for the moment. My current project is actually my second DIY windshield, which is sort of a prototype (mostly because the curve came out crappy). Pics and story of that to come when I get it on the bike.
  9. David JM

    David JM Been here awhile

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    If you want to have a narrow setup, check out the pics. on page 419 of the apache 3800 cases. They bolt directly to the sub frame. They are a bit smaller than most cases, but are sized well for this bike, are low cost, easy to install and very durable.
  10. jgiacobbe

    jgiacobbe Long timer

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    Givi E22 on Givi racks are the same width as the handle bars.
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  11. Northern_Rider777

    Northern_Rider777 Adventurer

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    Question about tire pressure...based on how over inflated my tires are when I get my bike back from any shop (high compared to swingrarm values), am I right to assume the Versys-X values are quite lower compared to other bikes, and if so, why?

    Also, what pressures would you run at in my situation? My current daily commute has a couple of KMs of rutted, muddy, gravelly backroads (when it rains), a small stretch of highway at 80/km/h, and a front tire (Kenda 761) that I have seen recommended to run at higher PSI to avoid cupping...

    Thanks!
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  12. Ken in Regina

    Ken in Regina Long timer Supporter

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    This raises a question I've been meaning to ask about the muffler on these sorts of bikes. Why not any lower? If you look at your first picture with the saddlebag mock up, or any side-on picture of the 300 for that matter, it seems like it could be lower without the slightest issue. Ie: everything forward of the can is much lower anyway. So why does it have to be so high? Am I missing something?

    This isn't directed exclusively at you. It's kind of generically aimed at anyone who knows of any good reason it's designed that way, other than it's just the way everyone expects this type of bike to look.

    For what it's worth, if I wanted to put saddlebags on and the ones I wanted needed a lower muffler, I wouldn't hesitate to get the stock exhaust lowered (pipe straightened a bit) and remounted.

    ...ken...
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  13. Ken in Regina

    Ken in Regina Long timer Supporter

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    I generally run mine at the swingarm pressures. Bullwinkle runs his a bit over. I think we've both done it that way for years. I'm not aware that either method results in cupping. I've never had a tire cup and I don't think Bullwinkle has.

    On the other hand something occured today that has me thinking about changing to Bullwinkle's approach. I'm heading out on a trip west on Saturday to get in a last mountain ride this season. About 1000km to get there across the Prairies, hopefully another 1000km or so in the mountains, and 1000km back home. Remind me in a week or so and I'll update you on the results.

    ...ken...
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  14. Northern_Rider777

    Northern_Rider777 Adventurer

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    [QUOTE="Remind me in a week or so and I'll update you on the results.

    ...ken...[/QUOTE]

    Will do! Also, aprox. when do those mountain passes become impassable?
  15. Ken in Regina

    Ken in Regina Long timer Supporter

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    Damn! I missed the crucial part of your situation. Given the combination of types of riding on your commute I would stay at or even a bit below the swingarm pressures. There's no way you'll get cupping in that kind of riding routine.

    My observation above is based on my own current experience which is night and day compared to what you described. It's almost exclusively pavement and almost exclusively at or above 100kph.

    I am retired so no commute. That allows me the luxury of almost completely avoiding riding in the city most of the time. And over the past couple of years I've mostly stopped riding off the pavement. I sold my XT250 not long after I bought the VX300. I use the VX300 mostly like a sport-touring bike.

    Sorry about that.

    ...ken...
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  16. Ken in Regina

    Ken in Regina Long timer Supporter

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    Any time from July 1 to June 30. (Read that again carefully if you didn't get it the first time.) :-)

    It's always a crap shoot. Seriously. We were out the last week in June this summer and two of the higher passes were closed for a few hours. It was raining and cold at lower elevations so it was snowing up high.

    ...ken...
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  17. SoManyFish

    SoManyFish Been here awhile

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    For riding on pavement I run Kawi's recommended pressures (28/32 psi F/R) with the factory IRC tires or with Shinko E705. When I had Shinko 804/805 I ran slightly higher pressures 32/36 psi (F/R) on pavement because the 804/805 have softish sidewalls and they feel better planted on the highway when run at a little higher pressures. But off-pavement is another matter entirely. If I was riding daily on the type of surfaces you describe I would run somewhat lower than 28/32. The lower pressure would allow the tire to flex and provide better grip on rough and uneven surfaces -- exactly how low would depend on the tire and the surface. I've never used Kenda 761 so I do not know how they respond to lowered pressures. With the Shinko 804/805 I would run 20/24 (F/R) on surfaces like the ones you describe. Hope this helps.
  18. Northern_Rider777

    Northern_Rider777 Adventurer

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    Ok, so aim for June 31st?!!?
    Ha! I like your answer as it it aligns with what I hear about Calgary possibly getting snow any month of the year.

    Also no worries about the post misreading.

    It def helps! Earlier in the Spring I tried going down in pressure for some mud, and it was nowhere near as low as you suggested ( I was way too conservative), and it felt like riding on ice. I will research how these tires do on highway at lower pressures, but having some ballpark numbers is a good start!
  19. bc6805

    bc6805 Adventurer

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    Ken, I went and eyeballed my bike. If you lower muffler you may run risk of axle nut hitting muffler on full suspension travel. May have to move muffler out as well, but then you really limit lean angle.

    Hope this helps,

    Bruce
  20. blackgaard

    blackgaard Adventurer

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    Definitely lean angle, and I had also assumed water crossings and debris were the reasons for ADV / dirtbike / whatever mufflers being high. More realistic concern for me is mice, honestly lol

    @David JM I have one of those Apache cases as my topcase currently (the 17" one iirc, because it fits my bag I bring to work perfectly). I really don't want side opening cases... and really need them to lock (one of the main reasons I want cases). Thinking about it though, I might just buy another one and mount them on the sides "for now" as a cheap get-it-done solution...

    @jgiacobbe Hadn't spotted those when searching, and at least they are cheapish, but the Tusk cases are tough as nails and basically the same price. Security and durability being the goal, I'm trying to avoid plastic... then again, the Tusk boxes aren't the lightest things either.