Kawasaki Versys-X 300

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by shyam334, Nov 8, 2016.

  1. flexiflyer

    flexiflyer Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2013
    Oddometer:
    403
    Location:
    Land of Lincoln and Cows
    Finished my latest project rebuild and took it out for the shakedown with my oldest birdogging from the X. These two bikes couldn't be any more different yet so similar in riding character. Got off the Daytona and onto the X and almost pulled the clutch lever through the grip :lol3

    IMG_7691.JPG IMG_7682.JPG
    jwaller, William42, Ride Now and 5 others like this.
  2. gorilla2891

    gorilla2891 Been here awhile

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    Oddometer:
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    NW WA. LaConner
    Without getting too crazy (or melting anything), is seems like there is some room for a smaller can up and inward a little, but may be a little tricky with the rear brake reservoir:
    View attachment 1872111

    Definitely overthinking a bit. The pic from back with lines is misleading. The brake reservoir is 6+" away from any exhaust and not an issue. I have an xr650l and it's mounted less than 2" away from pipe and never an issue.

    Attached Files:

  3. ex_MGB

    ex_MGB Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2012
    Oddometer:
    964
    So, I got a rear flat just as I was pulling into the beach on a hot day. I had picked up a small nail. Stopped at a gas station, bought some Fix-a Flat and aired up. Tubes/tires were OEM with 10k miles so I had no desire to patch or reuse tube. Fix-a-Flat worked like a charm. Spent the day at the beach and came home.

    Time for new tires/tubes, chain and sprockets. Already had a T-Rex center stand mounted. Used a 1/2" electric impact to remove front sprocket. Used a $15 Harbor Freight side grinder to grind down a rivet head on the chain and then broke the chain with the D.I.D. Chain Cut and Rivet Tool. Removed rear wheel and zip tied the caliper mounting block in place. Used Motion Pro Bead Breaker, Pit Posse Portable Motorcycle Tire Changing Stand, Bead Buster tire mount lubricant paste, Motion Pro valve stem remover, Motion Pro Bead Buddy, Motion Pro Rim Protectors, Motion Pro combo tire spoons/nut wrench and three Harbor Fright tire irons to remove old tire from rim. The stand and HF tire irons make the job so much more pleasant.

    Put new rear sprocket on with new nuts and torqued. Put new Kawi rim band on rear wheel. Put new Kawi OEM front sprocket on with 1/2" electric impact. Lubed new tire bead with the tire paste and mounted one side of rear tire on rim and put tube inside after coating with EC-880 Silicone Base Tube Talc. Pulled stem through rim hole with "The Original" Tube Snake. Started opposite side bead with Motion Pro tire spoons but quickly began using the Baja No Pinch with 17 mm axel shaft adapter to complete setting the bead in conjunction with a Motion Pro "Bead Buddy". Balanced the wheel with a Harbor Freight Motorcycle Wheel Balancing Stand and put rear wheel on after greasing axle bolt and coating bearing seals with high temperature Redline grease.

    Put on EK 520SRX2 - NATURAL X'ring (750cc Rated) chain and then followed D.I.D. youtube instruction video for chain installation with D.I.D. chain tool. Measured chain slack with Harbor Freight 6" digital calipers and used Motion Pro 08-0048 Chain Alignment Tool as well. Torqued wheel nut and put in new cotter pin. Next was front wheel which was even tighter. Baja No Pinch was the boss.

    If my dealer was closer would have had them do it.:jack

    PS: Double check tire rotation arrow and at end of job, pump up brakes.
    Fuzzy74 likes this.
  4. CaseyJones

    CaseyJones Ridin' that train

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    Aug 10, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3,978
    Location:
    Western Montana
    This is good for me to read - because, for all the stuff that I've done or had happen...I have not yet ever had a flat. Picked up nails a couple of times - with tubeless tires. Just pumped them up, got the bike to a shop or home, and dealt with it in my own time.

    So. Fix-A-Flat works, at least in some cases?

    Did you pull the nail out of the casing before, or after, using it?

    I have a bottle of Slime tube-seal, but haven't needed it yet. I'm sure that when it does happen to me, it'll be indescribably inconvenient.
    Fuzzy74 likes this.
  5. Fuzzy74

    Fuzzy74 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2009
    Oddometer:
    521
    Location:
    Cumberland Plateau in Tennessee
    I carry a tube of RideOn and a small compressor. Had a flat on way back from Alaska in front tire. Lost a couple pounds of pressure a day. Put ride on in and road 400+ miles until I found a MC dealer who could quickly replace tube. Found a small slit in tube probably done with a tire iron installing tire and I assume not fully through tube at the time. Had a couple thousand miles on it before leak started. RideOn was much better than fixing on side of road in rain which was the option.

    An advantage to RideOn is little to no mess when changing tire.
    Northern_Rider777 and Pekes1956 like this.
  6. jspringator

    jspringator Long timer

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    May 11, 2008
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    Location:
    Versailles, KY
    A bottle of Ride On fits next to the tool kit...
    Northern_Rider777 and Fuzzy74 like this.
  7. ex_MGB

    ex_MGB Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2012
    Oddometer:
    964
    Left nail in per instructions. It was a small nail. I'm sure either Slime or Ride On would have worked as well. Nice thing about Fix-A-Flat it seals and inflates. I wouldn't bomb down the interstate with it, I had a slow, back roads ride home.

    When I pulled the tube I could not see any evidence of leakage of the Fix-A-Flat. It was a small nail and was straight in, in the center of the tire. Ideal for Fix-A-Flat. It stayed inflated for 4 weeks till I got to it as I rode my Africa Twin and it was stinking hot all of August.

    There's some pretty good rants on here against Fix-A-Flat and I get it. But if it's 95 F and 90% humidity and Fix-A-Flat will get you the 45 miles home, works for me.
    jwaller and CaseyJones like this.
  8. CaseyJones

    CaseyJones Ridin' that train

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    Aug 10, 2010
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    Location:
    Western Montana
    Yup, I always have a tire compressor. I use it regularly, too - that's how I make sure it works. If I need airing up, just break out the compressor.

    Slime is messy, apparently - tire shops add a charge on when the customer has used Slime. But balance that against the cost of a tow and a cab ride home or to wherever...
    Northern_Rider777 likes this.
  9. Dfrnt

    Dfrnt Just pluggin' along Supporter

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    May 27, 2007
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    I’m dying to know what brand torque wrench you used.......
    gorilla2891 likes this.
  10. ex_MGB

    ex_MGB Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2012
    Oddometer:
    964
    LOL, not Harbor Freight. It's an old, well cared for 1/2" drive Craftsman (I've got a 3/8" drive as well). You pull the handle down and dial in the torque setting. Always return to zero after use.

    The HF side grinder came with an extra set of brushes. Not as nice as the Metabo's at work though.:dunno
  11. blackgaard

    blackgaard Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2019
    Oddometer:
    64
    Location:
    US, Northeast
    "What I really want is to move where the can is"
    "seems like there is some room for a smaller can up and inward a little"
    "an extended and curved length of pipe"

    I could have described the pic a little better though...

    old edit.PNG

    ...and from the other angle

    newdraw.PNG

    Routing for "adapter" would go behind (and mount to) the passenger peg bracket, leaving space for the swingarm. Can would mount to the not-yet-built case rack. The brake reservoir is directly in that path, and plastic with rubber hoses. Could probably make a bracket to mount it down and to the right, and shorten the hose. But again, this seems like a lot of little changes to get around one challenge, and that's where the "overthinking" part comes in.

    Apologies, really rough sketch with the Capture utility in Windows.
  12. Ken in Regina

    Ken in Regina Long timer Supporter

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    On the other hand, unless it's being ridden through water much deeper than the rear axle, it would be much simpler to bend the stock pipe and rework the stock muffler mount so the stock muffler is a few inches lower. Could do that and still have the opening in the end of the muffler a safe distance above H2O, if that's even a concern.

    ...ken...
  13. doogiepooch

    doogiepooch Long timer

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    Oddometer:
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    Canton, NC
    EC38C498-1EC2-4E67-8DC2-2A2778073ECF.jpeg Help me....

    So I bought Barkbusters and stuck them on the factory bars. Hated the additional vibes. Around 6-7,000 rpms but they seem to smooth out after that.

    Bought Rox antivibration risers, realized they really wouldn’t work with the factory bars.

    Bought cr mid fat bar pro tapers and installed pillowtop grips.

    Realized the original inner Barkbuster mounts wouldn’t work with the new fat bars and so I ordered inner mounts for tapered bars.

    Got it all bolted up tonight and the vibes are worse than when I stared.

    The Barkbuster bar end weights wouldn’t work inside the guards with the new mounts. So best I can do is maybe mount them on the outside of the guard which I haven’t tried.

    Is there anything I’m missing? I leave on this bike for Wyoming in about 12 days so I’m running out of options. I feel like the only option is to go back to stock.
  14. dirtdreamer50

    dirtdreamer50 long time rider

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    texas coast
    Remove it all and go back to stock. Seems that was the best you had, from what you just said. tp
  15. Dfrnt

    Dfrnt Just pluggin' along Supporter

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    Will a bar snake fit?
  16. doogiepooch

    doogiepooch Long timer

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    I’m not sure. I actually didn’t know what that was so I did a little research. I’m thinking not since the fat bars are 7/8 on the tips and taper to 1 1/8. But as a result of searching for that I found some other options like a do it yourself bar snake. Some even filled the bars ends with lead shot and molten lead and had good results.
    Northern_Rider777 likes this.
  17. gorilla2891

    gorilla2891 Been here awhile

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    Aug 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
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    NW WA. LaConner
    I just installed power madd 2" riser on my Girls 300. She didn't want to get new bars so got 7/8 to 7/8. Even though I protested... I put a strip of tool box drawer rubber around bar where it mounts and no vibration anymore. Her hands would get tingly on long rides. Similar setup ony XR 650 and works well and it vibrates worse!
  18. gorilla2891

    gorilla2891 Been here awhile

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    Location:
    NW WA. LaConner
    I also modified her bark Buster's to include factory bar weights...
  19. Ride Now

    Ride Now Graybeard

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2011
    Oddometer:
    408
    Location:
    Yakima, WA

    Just curious why the Rox anti-vibe risers wouldn't work with the stock bars? I've used them on stock bars on many different bikes. Reason for asking is that it seems you went down a slippery slope after this, adding more things that potentially made things worse along the way. Also, did you try mounting the Barkbusters on the outside of the bar end weights? Not saying you did anything wrong, just an observation. :D
  20. doogiepooch

    doogiepooch Long timer

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    I’ll try the rubber idea.

    I could get them mounted and the bars on but in order for the cables to not be to short the bars were either in a really weird position forward or really weird position rearward. If I rolled them up in the middle to a more normal riding position the cables were way to short.

    I didn’t come up with this set up all on my own. I copied the 300 build from advpulse. I used a different bar and a different guard but that shouldn’t have affected anything vine wise.

    And yes to gorilla and ride now, as I mentioned I haven’t tried mounting them on the outside but def will this evening. I did try mounting them on the inside as they were intended to be mounted but it shuffled the guard over to far making the inner mount unusable. I’m thinking that will take me back to what it was with the barkbusters and the factory bars, which was a buzz right around 7,000 rpms but I’d like it all gone if possible. I may try and get the factory internal dampeners in the aftermarket bars some how.