Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by shyam334, Nov 8, 2016.
WHAT???? That is crazy talk.
Yeah, and what about changing out the rocker arms for roller models, while you're in there... dd50
So I have not found any threads on serious fork travel or fork mods. But I’ve been working on some for my bike.
So it has lots of mods to make it more off road capable, but I have grounded it out on the Ricochet skid plate a few times & on full compression the front fender rubs on the front of the skid plate. When viewed from the side the skid plate slopes down from the rear towards the front. A 2” longer fork would make that flat with maybe a slight rise towards the front, plus it would make the seat flatter, it slopes forward currently.
So my original plan was to add 2” longer forks & see if there was a way to add a little more travel. So Having swapped various fork parts in the past, I found a cheap pair of KLE500 forks which are 41mm OD, same as X300 ones.
Stock stanchions (the chrome inner leg) are 640mm long, the KLE ones are 750mm long, so just over 4” longer. I have risers fitted to my bars that give room above the top yoke for 55mm of fork to protrude. So thought this would be perfect, as KLE stanchion would add 2” height to the frontend, with the additional 2” above the yoke.
Problem #1 the KLE stanchion has a thicker wall & a wider damper rod/hole, thus the X300 springs & damper rod will not fit or work with them, neither will the fork caps & the KLE cap has air valves protruding out the top
So I started looking at reworking the KLE damper to work with the X300 slider, to keep brakes & ABS fittings the same. So after a lot more measuring checking & thinking, I came up with a plan.
1. Cut KLE dampers down to 280mm length. This will give 6.5” of travel & 5” overlap between slider bearings.
2. Turn bottom of damper rod down to accept X300 bottoming alloy cone.
3. Make a steel insert to fit in bottom of damper rod & weld in place using the 4 original damper holes. This is drilled & threaded (M8x1.25mm) to accept the damper bottom bolt.
4. To make this work, with the most travel for the slider length, I used some spare top out springs I had that are 25mm long (VFR800 or VTR1000 ones from an old project) X300 ones are 28mm long but to wide & won’t fit in the KLE stanchion. KLE top out spring is 36mm for reference, FYI the KLE has 8.6” front fork travel.
I have drilled 4x 9mm new damper holes in the reworked damper rod & will fit cartridge emulators, for damping. FYI stock X300 has 2x 8mm holes & KLE has 4x 7mm holes.
I have not decided on which springs to use yet. X300 won’t fit so they are out, KLE might be to soft (.4 Kg/mm) but I have a spare set of FJ1200 springs (.65 Kg/mm) that are stiffer than KLE ones, but slightly less that X300 ones. Most importantly they are 35.5mm OD & will fit in the KLE stanchion & are similar length. If anyone needs stiffer springs for KLE500/KLR650 then the FJ ones or XJ900 (.8 Kg/mm) ones will fit, you just need the correct spacer length.
I’m just waiting for the damper rods to be returned from the welder, then can try the rebuild.
With the 2” plan, I was just going to move the brake line & ABS cable behind the bottom yoke so that they had enough length. The new 4” plan (2” longer fork, plus 2” more travel) means the brake line might be to short at top out, as in wheelie or front wheel off the ground in a jump, so may have to address that. Plus I’ll have to lengthen the side & centre stands an appropriate amount to compensate for the new front ride height.
I also measured the slider wall thickness & they are the same for KLE & X300, so no worries about strength & the thicker KLE stanchion should resist flex better.
To address the fork cap issue, I used my mini lathe to cut off the air valve, I drilled & tapped the existing hole to M6x1.0mm, then over bored the top side to allow the cap head bolt to sit flush with the fork cap top. I had to trim about 1.25mm off the cap head bolt to get it flush. Then added some gasket sealant to the bolt/hole/threads & used a nyloc nut on the inside. Should be air/oil tight, I’ll put a flat coin spacer below the cap on top of the spring spacer to avoid the possibility of the nut coming off & dropping in to the fork. Not likely, but belt & braces :)
More updates later in the week when I get the forks reassembled & test fitted.
Enjoy, and as always YMMV.
....No matter what caliper you use or shim you put in you get to verify...
When you take your final feeler gauge reading.
Typically one can not raise one end of a bike that much without serious handling issues. Have you had any thoughts on how to raise the rear to match?
The point is that with more accuracy the first time you may avoid finding out with the final feeler gauge reading that your initial readings were off just enough that you get to do it over again....
^^^^ shim increments are .002
Nice work...pretty ambitious...
I wonder if Cogent has a drop in DDC for the 41 forks ?
I have a set of YSS PD fork valves :)
The ideal would be Traxxion Dynamic integrated fork damper, but they don’t do one for the X300 definitely not with extended travel.
Well once the front is sorted the rear may be looked at, if I deem it required. There is already 6” of travel in the rear & a quality shock with adjustable length could be used to add another inch.
I don’t believe that raising the front 4” will cause any issues, yes the steering will slow a little, but as I use mine off road a lot that’s fine with me, slower steering with more travel is what I’m after. I’ll report back once ridden.
The good news is the brake line is long enough if routed behind the bottom yoke. I tested this by dropping the stock fork down 4” & tested the calliper fit :)
Kapsco Moto in Pickering has AGM batteries at excellent prices - I've been using them for many years.
You can order them online as they come pre-charged and sealed.
Seat Concepts foam and cover successfully installed. 2 hrs start to finish. Only went for a short ride but highway felt surprisingly smoother and crossing rr tracks was definately softer. Not much of a change in height but do feel it is just a bit wider as I can feel the seat edge on the backs of my legs when both feet are down. Definitely feel the hump more as it feels like I am sitting in the seat as compared to on top of like the old one. Gonna go for a long ride tomorrow to give it a real test.
Great looking bike.
Nice bike but, what the heck is a "Devian Tink?"
Believe that is Deviant Ink. It's a company that makes wraps/decals for snowmobiles, and maybe bikes now too???
Yes deviant ink makes wraps for sleds but not bikes. They were sending free decals upon request but seeing how I traded my sled in for this bike I decided to use a few.
And thanks for thae compliments! I rode 160 miles today with the new seat and love it. No pain!
Valve float could be engineered in, and especially with four-valves-per-cylinder. Staggered openings.
The industry doesn't see a need. Because initial purchase price is the critical factor. Only one in ten units are actually used to where wear is a factor. Many are sold, used a little, and abandoned with under 10,000 miles.
Here's a hypothetical.
Given how it's so costly, either in flat-rate or in garage time (DIY)...what's the relative merits in just saying, da halibut, and running the machine without adjustment until there's obvious indications?
Sure, burned valves. But, once you strip everything off...how much more costly is it to remove the head and either RnR or do a valve job? Much of the work is the same - stripping the chassis down, then removing the camshafts...