Kawasaki Versys-X 300

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by shyam334, Nov 8, 2016.

  1. caje47

    caje47 Adventurer

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    I just picked up a used custom-made seat from a fellow in the Facebook group....what a huge difference. I don't think I could go back to stock. Before I would be in quite a bit of pain after 2-3 hours, while today I did 6 hours with no real breaks and was only a little sore. Pretty much anything would be an improvement over stock.

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  2. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    I just noticed that my engine light is not going off after I start the bike (this is the DFI yellow light) Has anyone had that happen ?
    I had disconnected the battery to do some work.
    The bike idles/runs and revs like normal.
    Probably just needs a reset, not sure how to do that.
  3. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    Also, is this just a accessory plug or a diagnostic port ? This is under the seat by the battery.
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  4. twaldron

    twaldron Dudeman

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    I put those on all my bikes for a battery tender.
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  5. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    That's what I thought it was, just wanted to make sure.
  6. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    Replying to my own post here.
    Found the info I am looking for on page 304.
    https://advrider.com/f/threads/kawasaki-versys-x-300.1185562/page-304
    Good info in case anyone else runs into this.
    My error code is 14 which is coolant temperature sensor.
    This makes sense as I just had a valve check done where they have to disconnect the coolant hose.
    Will also check the connections.
    It just needs a reset as the temp gauge is working as normal. (will also check the sensor plug)
    Cannot go for an actual ride right now due winter weather, but maybe next week.
    Should be able to do a ride reset at that time.
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  7. SoManyFish

    SoManyFish Been here awhile

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    IMO in this case Code 14 does not make sense. Yes, the tech had to drain the coolant and disconnect a coolant hose to service the valves. But that will not trip a Code 14. Code 14 is an indication of a short or open circuit which usually indicates: (improbable) the sensor has failed (more improbable) or (more probable) an issue with the wiring to the sensor.
  8. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    Maybe, I looked at all the connections and everything appears to be okay. The temp gauge works like normal and the fan kicks in like normal (idling in garage). After reading numerous posts from the Ninja 300/400 sites the error codes can sometimes get tripped for no apparent reason. If the ignition key was turned on while the temp sensor was disconnected that could do it ? If the weather improves I will try the 3 ride reset and see what happens.
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  9. SoManyFish

    SoManyFish Been here awhile

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    Glad to hear that all is well. Yes, I suppose the error could trip if the ignition was turned on while the sensor was disconnected. Except that the procedure in the Service Manual does not call for the sensor to be disconnected. Additionally, given that the valve check and adjust procedure involves removing the fuel tank the battery should have been disconnected during the procedure from start to finish thus rendering any operation of the key moot. Odd. In any case, it sounds all is working properly which is the most important thing.
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  10. SoManyFish

    SoManyFish Been here awhile

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    Yes, this looks like a common 2-pin SAE connector for charging the battery. However, FYI, there is under the seat a diagnostic connector for the Kawasaki Diagnosis System (KDS).

    Speaking of KDS connectors, there are aftermarket adaptors that allow a person to connect an OBD scan tool to the KDS connector to scan for DTCs, erase DTCs, etc. From what I have read, as of 2016 model year Kawasaki uses standard ODB codes rather their older proprietary codes but kept their KDS connector. I have not tried this yet but I have ordered a cable which should arrive in a couple of weeks. When it arrives, I will let you all know if it works. It would certainly be convenient if we could use an OBD scan tool on Versys-X -- I don't know about you guys but I have like 3 of them.

    Edit: For clarification, the KDS connector is located underneath the U-lock bracket that is under the seat. See the attached photo below. (And, yeah, I know the bike is super dusty. I didn't have an opportunity to wash it before it got cold here.) The KDS connector has a "dummy" connector with rubber plugs to keep it free of crud.

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  11. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    I am hoping it is just a fluke error. I do not recall seeing the light when I picked the bike up. when I got home I put the bodywork back on. I tried to start it after that and it hesitated and lagged and quit, I discovered the positive to the battery was loose and was not connecting properly. Maybe that set it off ? I agree about the valve check procedure, I know the tech and he is very good so I am sure he would have followed procedure. Usually they will disconnect the negative but not both ? (not sure about that). I checked the service manual and like you say, it could be the actual sensor (not likely) or a broken wire in the harness (not likely either). If neither of those they say replace the ECU...not real keen on that one. The bike has a bit less than 12k km and well taken care of, the only mod has been an Akropovic pipe. I will be doing the 3 ride reset this week.
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  12. Northern_Rider777

    Northern_Rider777 Been here awhile

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    They look great! What do you (or others) tend to keep in your crash bar bags?

    I had a Giant Loop bag on my crash guard for a long time but from various drops, I had some stuff get broken so now I am really hesitant to carry stuff that way.
  13. SoManyFish

    SoManyFish Been here awhile

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    It certainly could be a one-off error. TBH over the years I have seen one or two DTCs show up on cars, cleared the codes and they never appeared again. So hopefully that's it. Here in the prairies with our dry air sometimes static discharges wreak havoc with electronic devices. That's especially true during winter when air inside buildings often has very low humidity. A couple of years ago I walked across a carpeted floor in sock feet and then went to pick up one of my laptops. Big mistake. There was a large static discharge off my finger tip to the laptop and that was the end of its motherboard :-( Regarding the battery, the standard procedure is to disconnect only the negative battery lead. It's great that you know a good Tech to work on your bike :-)
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  14. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    Thanks Fish, I will post when I try the reset.
  15. TNC

    TNC Candyass Camper

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    SoManyFish, I'm glad you mentioned this adapter for the KDS. I'd never heard of it. Working part time at a shop, I was aware of the factory reader, but this harness is pretty handy. The Z650 I bought in June is the first FI bike I've owned.
  16. manybike

    manybike Omnipresent Supporter

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    Alrighty, did the 3 ride reset and it worked !
    Rode for another hour after that, several stops, sitting in traffic etc. and the temperature and fan operated as normal (just like it always does).
    No error code.
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  17. rwf

    rwf Been here awhile

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    Good looking seat. Do you have any information on it?
  18. Fuzzy74

    Fuzzy74 Been here awhile

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    In the smaller fanny packs I carried rain gear and a spare tube. With the larger bags will add tire changing tools and some layers for cool weather.
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  19. Lesharoturbo

    Lesharoturbo Nerdly Adventurer

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    Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the 300?
  20. judobiker

    judobiker Been here awhile

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    The stock exhaust is so quiet that I got tired of startling other folks on forest service roads (including hikers and mountain bikers) Who never heard me. Seriously, I’ve followed mountain bikes who jumped out of their skin when they saw me because they never heard an engine.

    I installed a delkevic 9” carbon fiber today. It’s my third or 4th silencer from them (other bikes). It was about $200 shipped. The quality is outstanding on the welds and material. Everything bolted up and fit as it should. Only complaints here is there were no instructions so it took a while to figure out how the hanger should fit. Also it didn’t come with a new crush gasket for the midpipe connecting to the header. They are all on back order, so rather than wait a few weeks I made one out of some header wrap and RTV and it seemed To work okay.
    it’s definitely louder than stock, but it isn’t too loud or annoying for me. It has a pretty good tone too out. Delkevics come with removable baffles. I tried it briefly without the baffle and it was way too loud for me. The review I saw on the 14” version seemed like it had a similar sound to stock.
    I didn’t weigh them, but this can is WAY lighter than the stock can.
    I’m not too excited about the length of exhaust that now doesn’t have any protection. I’ll probably make a cover for it. Shouldn’t be too hard to do.

    While I was tightening everything up, I noticed one of the nuts from my centerstand was gone. Luckily It didn’t fall apart going down the road. Now if my rear wheel bearings will get here (and I can change them) I’ll see how this sounds after a Full day of riding.
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