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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by A Knight Who Says Ni, Aug 27, 2010.
This bike has the same discoloration, at the same side, at the same place.
I've had similar marks from getting grease from cleaning cloths on the headers of the BSAs when I've been working on the bikes. Crap thrown up from the road will also do it - 'glad wrap' plastic, styro cups, waxed food paper - anything that melts fast and leaves a greasy residue.
That video is interesting. Makes me wonder if there is a joint in the inner header tube there and some obstruction caused by a bad weld is focussing the heat, especially as it is the same side and place and perhaps a manufacturing fault. Might be worth pulling the exhaust off and running a probe down. If you do take the exhaust off - not a big job at all - be careful with the graphited seals where the sides join to the collector unit. Much easier to refit if there are two of you.
I find it interesting that it's right where the O2 is...
Excellent observation. Every W800 I've seen get this discoloring gets it centered over the O2 sensor. Hot gas leaking into the space between the tube walls, right where the O2 sensor penetration is?
If they don't all do this, then it could be reasonably claimed that it's caused by a faulty right header.
If so, it could be a warranty issue.
I bet the dealer will tell you "it is normal", but you may try.
I'll remove it as best as I can, if it comes back I'll say something about it to them. If they give me a bunch of shit about it, I'll say it louder. We've bought quite a few bikes from them over the years, they tend to pay attention to us.
I'm not concerned so much about the dealership, it'll be how Kawasaki mother ship handles it if it becomes a recurring issue.
Ah - that's the issue. I hadn't noticed the O2 sensors were on the headers on the current Ws. It is on the crossover in front of the mufflers on the previous models.
May have a crack or pin hole on inner pipe!
Hmmm, maybe a poor weld. Should be interesting to see if mine develops heat spots.
Could be fixed if the fitting could be put lower in the pipe, under the engine. Of course that won't be easy to do since it would require a different left exhaust.
Odds are the "bluing" is caused by the disturbance of the sensor in the pipe breaking up the laminar flow of the gasses, which would keep uniform exhaust temps on the surface, and obviously running "cool" enough to not blue the exhaust.
Makes me wonder if a correct length plug that could replace the sensor could be inserted and stop the bluing by removing the turbulence causing sensor protrusion. Could be worth looking at. See if the sensor could be either eliminated or placed down under the engine in the pipe. Just a thought. I know the sensor for my XSR is down below the clutch cover.
I will be monitoring the header pipes for discolouration on my new 2021 W-800 (Classic) But I already have a bad relationship with my dealer over there shady service so
I may be stuck with it if and or when it happens. I guess I could go to another dealer but they dont like doing warranty work if you did not purchase the bike from them.
Regardless there's obviously an issue on that right side. Vey possible its a bad weld on the hole for the 02 sensor. Does anyone know were to plug the air flow (with the marble trick)
to lesson the air being pumped into the headers for an extra burn (emissions) I think that extra air is making the pipes even hotter .
Today's W800 'Glamour Shot'....
Pull the rubber hose off the T-piece between the two outlet covers, put a marble on the top of the T-piece and press the hose back on. The T-piece is on the small finned unit at the front of the engine, directly under W on the tank in the pic above. You can make alloy blanking plates to cover the holes in the head but the marble works just as well.
Is this really all there is to it? What about those removal kits I see that included a resistor-equipped plug cap for the valve? If I'm disabling the secondary air injection I don't want it in there anymore (no inspections where I live).
The better way. Check these:
The simplest way: take tube 92192 out of the air filter, put any appropriate plug into it, and insert it back into the air filter.
Not always true if you actually talk with the other dealer. Relate the dissatisfaction, without going overboard and, if you have heard that the new dealer does good work, mention that. If they have shop time to schedule you in, they likely will, after all you will be paying for it. You may not get the "above and beyond" service a regular customer will, but if they do good and you repeat it may turn out that way.
Where I worked, sometimes the mechanics would go out of their way to do extra good on a new customer if coming from a competitor. But anyone coming in and demanding "you are a Kawasaki dealer and have to do warranty" or are pushy, that brings out the "when in September do you want to bring it in for the work?" response.
You will need the resistor if you want to remove the plastic activator unit under the tank, but leaving the unit wired in place and plugging either hose or removing the front or both and using blanking plates works just as well. I used blanking plates in my first W, but left the system in place in my 2nd as it does nothing untoward.
Your very correct in what u say BUT I literally dont trust the mechanics to work on my bike.I would actually be nervous off my safety after they wrenched on it.
Yes they were that careless. I can give u a list of my initial experiences with the dealer if u like. Im pretty easy going but it seem here that when your purchasing the bike they promise the world but after the sale has been made ,your dirt! Im pretty mechanical so most jobs will be handled by myself and if I need work done I dont feel comfortable with im going to take it to a shop I know that does great work and pay to have it done.