Kawasaki Z650 / 1100

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Bevelheadmhr, Nov 3, 2019.

  1. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    I think you got it, I made the assumption that the rear of the seat was on the left…
    #81
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  2. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Yes, the seat has been upholstered back to front. I'd assumed it was clear which end was the front, but not so..
    #82
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  3. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    so did they also put the foam on the pan backwards too?
    #83
  4. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    yes
    #84
  5. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    AYE CARUMBA!!!
    #85
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  6. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Decided to rebuild the bolt up rear wheel, with new fasteners, only to find the cap head bolts holding the hubs in place wouldn't fit.. sigh. turns out the old cap heads had been machined to fit snugly into the recesses made for them in the hub. So had to machine all 12 bolts the same way. Its done now.

    Meanwhile mounted the Dyna coils, once I'd made 4 stand off spacers. They are very close to the cam cover, but can reduce the spacers by a couple of mm to gain a tiny bit more clearance. Not sure if that's still going too be too close to the engine..

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    #86
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  7. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Pre covid we made a one off swing arm spindle for the bike, which has gone missing, cant find it anywhere, and boy I have searched high and low for it. Oh well, lets make another. Still had a length of EN24T 20mm bar, so passed it through the frame to see where I need to cut it to length.

    Only to dismayed to find another problem. The bar, which is straight, wouldn't pass through the second swingarm mounting hole in the frame. Looks like the frame is slightly twisted!!

    No idea how this could be, as it was straight before it went off to be powder coated. The only idea I have is that the stresses in the frame from welding, were somehow 'relieved' when the frame was heated in the powder coating oven.. its heated to 200c / 350F.

    Not that it matters, as now I need to find a solution, hopefully without fully stripping the bike down and putting back on a frame jig... never had a bike give me so many problems...

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    #87
  8. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    Well that sucks.
    Have you tried loosening the motor mounts to see what happens ?
    #88
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  9. 3legs

    3legs Real men ride sidecars Supporter

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    Thinking out loud here but what if you loosened the engine mounts then spread the frame slightly. It may line up and if it does, make up new engine mounts to keep it spread.

    Unfortunately I think heat will be the only answer and then powder coat again but this time keep an old swingarm axle in there ( covered so you can remove it ) while it's being powder coated.

    Strange as I've heaps of frames powder coated in the past and never had an issue.
    #89
  10. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Not yet, But something I'll try tomorrow when I have time.
    #90
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  11. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Yes, had lots of frames powder coated too, never had a problem before.
    #91
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  12. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer Supporter

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    My TZ frame wouldn't strip or blast so I sent it for pyrolitic baking for 4 hours at 450c. I was worried it might stress relieve but even with crap steel and crappy welds it didn't shift at all. I'd say very unlikely the powder coat made it move. I looked at stress relief because of the notorious frame cracking of 70's TZ's, spoke to a treatment company and it needs to go up to 850c for that, then it really might move, decided against that in the end.
    #92
  13. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the info on heating the frame. I've always been careful handling the frame, but once its out of my hands, who knows. Could have been dropped accidently I guess, before powder coating. I've spoken to a couple of folks, who both say the same thing.. don't panic, the frame can be tweaked back into alignment. I did try loosening the engine mounts, but it made no difference.

    Meanwhile, I carried on with the build and tried not to worry about the frame.

    Fitted the stainless under tray and splash guard, the latter may need to be cut back a bit, once I know the upper chain run.

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    #93
  14. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Plan A to fix the swing arm pivot on the frame failed. Used a length of 20mm steel bar and a big hammer to tweak the frame straight. Had zero effect on the frame.. we did a good job on bracing it.

    But we did manage to bend the 20mm steel bar [​IMG]

    Plan B was attempted today with success. I used a 20mm flap wheel in my hand drill to carefully alter one of the pivot holes to allow the spindle to line up. Took over an hour of slow work and careful checking, but it worked and the spindle is still a good fit in the frame. [​IMG]

    Got confirmation today that the exhaust I ordered will arrive on Monday, never seen one in real life, only in pics, so hope I like it on the bike.
    #94
  15. 3legs

    3legs Real men ride sidecars Supporter

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    See, nothing a grinder and a hammer can't fix :lol3:lol3:lol3
    #95
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  16. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    The Delkavic black ceramic 4-1 exhaust system I ordered ages ago finally arrived. Was probably stuck in the Suez canal for a few weeks.

    Looks really nice, but cant fit it yet as the bike is still sitting on its sump.

    The R6 Front forks were ok, but have gone off to be rebuilt with new seals, and the fork lowers are to be powder coated satin black.

    Finally got around to making up the dyna ignition leads, bit tricky as there isn't much room between the coils and the cam cover, but got there in the end.

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    #96
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  17. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Decided the billet yokes would look better finished satin black rather than polished. But first had to carefully round off all the sharp edges and corners, as paint doesn't adhere too well on such sharp edges. Slow, tedious work using a small hand file followed by wet n dry sandpaper. That done, sprayed them with etch primer followed by satin black 'tough' paint. Don't know how durable it'll be in use, but can always get them hard anodised in the future if its a problem.

    Yokes fitted, and finally finished the wheels, now with the front R6 discs fitted. Will go and get a new tyre on Monday for the front. The forks are still away being rebuilt, so have to wait a bit longer to get the bike on its wheels, when I can see how the exhaust looks on the bike.
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    #97
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  18. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    With a new homemade spindle I could finally fit the rear end, though the bearing kit I bought for the swingarm didn't include any spacers, so need to find or buy whatever is required. Life would be easier if I could lift the bike off the ground, and onto a bike lift, but nearly put my back out trying on my own, so it can stay on its sump for now.

    Made a start on the foot controls, chain drilled the mounts from 10mm alloy plate, test fit on the frame, showed I'd made another mistake. The brackets put the foot pegs 40mm lower than the standard position, so the gearchange side will need to be remade, while the brake side can be saved I think.

    With the 43mm R6 forks off being rebuilt, I dug out an old pair of ZRX stanchions to try out the head light mounts. We weren't sure how big to make them, so they turned out to be way too long. So need to cut them back to bring the headlight back much closer to the headstock.

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    #98
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  19. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Making good progress, looking great too.
    #99
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  20. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Shortened the headlamp brackets, which let me try a test fit of the R90S fairing.. it'll need a few mm cutting off at the lower edges where it just hits the tank on full lock. The bars in the pic are set wrong, they need rotating back, so they wont touch the fairing.


    The instrument pod.. tacho/speedo/idiot lights arrived, along with the handlebar switches from Motogadget, which work well with the M-Unit. Finally went for something I've not tried before.. the speed sensor for the speedo works via GPS. No need for any wires/magnets on the front wheel.


    Next job is to make a mount for the speedo/tacho and work out how to mount the fairing.


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