Kawasaki Z650 / 1100

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Bevelheadmhr, Nov 3, 2019.

  1. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    The 4-1 collector has been welded up at last, now waiting to get the hanger plates back which are being machined to make them look a bit less of an eyesore.

    Drew up a wiring diagram one evening, that done could make a start on the wiring. Fitted the front indicators.. looked at loads online, these seem to work well on the bike. While at the back of the bike, the early Z1 tail lamp and indicators will need a mounting bracket. With the frame and duct tail being widened, the tail lamp looks a bit small now.

    Fitted the GPS speedo sensor, under a side panel next to the M-Unit, while on the RHS fitted the rectifier/regulator. That done been slow going making up the various wires and multi pin connectors to match. But at least its a start.

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  2. 3legs

    3legs Real men ride sidecars Supporter

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    Maybe a tail light unit from a GPZ1100 B2 might work to fill the tail.
  3. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Looking good, will the GPS pickup get enough satellites from under the side cover?
  4. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Maybe, I did have a look at the prices of those lights.. over £100, also not sure how the square, angular design would look under the ducktail.
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  5. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Read a lot about GPS needing a clear view of the sky, but apparently not. The instructions say its ok under the dash of a car. If it doesn't work being the side panel, will have to move it.. not sure where though.
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  6. VX Rider

    VX Rider Long timer

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    upload_2021-9-6_6-15-54.png vx 800 might be a better fit
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  7. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Yes that one looks like it may work, will find out its dimensions and perhaps find one on Ebay to try.
  8. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Raising the foot pegs to give clearance for the exhaust and side stand meant making new longer, uglier hangers. But with more shaping and machining they don't look too bad now. Over the winter I'll have them hard anodised black, so they shouldn't look too out of place on the bike.

    Before, during and after the change..

    Attached Files:

  9. VX Rider

    VX Rider Long timer

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    I can measure mine...
  10. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Yes that would be helpful, just need to know its width.
  11. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    I'd been putting off building the wiring harness but once I get my head in 'wiring mode' its not too difficult, I'd already drawn up a detailed wiring diagram, so just had to follow it and try to run the wires as neatly as I can.

    The bike has a 'Basic' M-Unit which simplifies the wiring, along with matching switches, with wiring going through the handlebars. Ignition is Dyna S and Dyna coils, while I'm using a combined Speedo/tacho/idiot lights made by Daytona. Also trying out a GPS speed sensor for the first time, as it means the bike doesn't need a lead going down to the front wheel.

    Took a couple of weeks, an hour here and an hour there to build the wiring harness. Though I could spend more time trying to make it all a bit neater.. some wires are a little too long, or could be routed slightly differently. Just waiting for the neutral light switch and oil pressure switch connector to arrive then its all done.

    One problem I had with the M-Unit is that one of the output ports (12V ignition) needed to feed five circuits.. and five wires don't fit into the small socket.. so I had to add a small Busbar next to the M-unit which solved the issue. Also used it for the two indicator circuits, as they had three wires.. front, back and idiot light.

    The main loom which goes from the front to the back of the bike isn't sleeved in one big bundle, as it would be on a standard bike. I often change and modify my bikes, the wiring is sleeved by function.. so I can for example change the instrument pod and all its wiring, without upsetting any wiring for other parts of the bike, such as the headlight or switchgear.

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  12. VX Rider

    VX Rider Long timer

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    Right about 6 3/4"
    20210919_170948.jpg 20210919_171025.jpg
  13. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    Spent a frustrating hour or two making the exhaust hanger from 3mm stainless plate.. with just a hacksaw and hand file..took ages. Still needs more work to shape it, then it can be powder coated black later.

    Got the exhaust how I want it now, still need to trim and shape the hanger. Also sprayed the welded bit of the 4-1 collector with HT paint.. pity its a matt finish, as it doesn't quite match the satin black of the rest of the exhaust. Just ordered a can of satin black PJ1, which should look better.

    However, finally received the clutch and brake master cylinders, made in England by a company called HEL. They are machined from billet alloy, as is the lever, while they have a variable piston size.. in my case 14/15/16mm. The clutch and brake are identical, as they are made so they can be used on the left or right. The bleed nibble and banjo threads are the same, so they can be flipped over.

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  14. 3legs

    3legs Real men ride sidecars Supporter

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  15. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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  16. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    With the paintwork away, been slowly ticking off the long list of jobs before I can try to start the engine for the first time. Drilled and mounted the blank rear sprocket, had to be blank as the rear hub was drilled to match no other wheel in the known universe.. With that done could check on the chain alignment, with the ZZR1100 front sprocket, which in turn has a 5/8ths built in offset. Turns out that's not enough and its still 10mm out of alignment. Been trying to source a 1 inch offset front sprocket, but no look just yet. Another option is to remove and dismantle the rear wheel and machine down the LH hub by 10 mm.. luckily there is plenty of room between the chain run and rim/tyre.

    The next job proved to be very frustrating, trying to fit the one off outrigger bearing support.. the inner plate wouldn't fit over the gearchange shaft, as the side stand spring tang got in the way. Something that should've been spotted long ago. But with the various C19 lockdowns it wasn't possible, as the engine and frame were in different workshops.

    The answer was to fit the shaft through the plate, then fit its mechanism to the engine.. while the plate was in the way.. took a lot of attempts before I felt confident enough to fit the handmade gasket and fit it for real. Got there in the end. Though its support spacers for the outer plate need a little machining to get them to fit just right.

    I painted the alloy foot peg hangers satin black, just to see how they look, they'll need to be hard anodised later, as even the so called 'tough' paint will soon be scratched otherwise.

    Also fitted the duel cable throttle with a cable kit from Venhill, and measured and ordered the brake and clutch lines from HEL.

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  17. Bevelheadmhr

    Bevelheadmhr Been here awhile

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    With the Dyna S ignition statically timed.. pretty easy once I'd watched a good vid on YT, sorted out a temporary fuel supply, and in a rush to start the engine for the first time, started to add the oil... it didn't go as planned.

    Todays lesson - Ensure the sump plug is fitted before pouring in the engine oil... I'm an idiot !

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  18. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    How much did you pour in before you realized the error of your ways ?
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  19. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer Supporter

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    i once had a car towed in from the dealer to my shop. sign in the window said "no oil', tow truck unloaded it in the alley, didnt wanna push it up hill, so i popped the hood, poured 8 quarts in it, and about 3/4 way thru the 8th quart i saw a little trickle of oil............ dealer took the oil pan off.

    took a lot of oilzorb to get all that up.
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  20. Fast Idle

    Fast Idle Since the Sixties Supporter

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    It could have been worse and gone the other way.
    Had a guy ask if I could look at his bike's transmission. Said he was riding home from just having it serviced and it just kept slowing down and finally wouldn't move anymore.
    Told him to bring it over and we'd have a look. Pushed it up on the lift, grabbed a pan and wrench to drop the oil, and then immediately found the problem.
    No drain plug.

    What's left of the helical cut gear on the intermediate shaft is circled. Found him a good used gearbox.
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    Thread jack over :hide