Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by jake28, Oct 25, 2011.
WTF is a "roadie-adventurer"
has all the indicators of a blown main fuse. did you pull this fuse located under the cover at the starter relay? if the fuse is good, do you have voltage there?
the bike has two ground wires, engine and chassis. make sure these are tight. no ground, no go.
when you get it running, put the volt meter on it and check the charging system, your looking for 14V. wrecked Ptwin bikes that have gone down on the left (generator cover side) sometimes have stator damage.
Modify your own cables. If you can solder copper plumbing (or know someone who can), you can make your own cables.
1: understand that the most important part of a cable is the "stick-out" -- i.e. when you pull the cable all the way to one end, how much of it sticks out from the sheath. When you modify the cable, you need to install the new end so it has the same stick-out. While you're measuring stuff, measure the diameter and length of the cylindrical "ball" on the cable.
2: when you figure out how long the sheath needs to be, mark the sheath. The cable *should* have a little bit of solder holding the sires together so it won't fray. Use a dremel tool to cut the cable, then cut the sheath, and slide it off the end.
3: use a small pick or screwdriver to release the crimp from the end cap - it could be a plain cap, it is probably a threaded adjuster. Transfer this to the new, shorter end. Cut the cable to match the stick-out. Don't forget to allow for the width of the ball before you cut. If you cut too short, you can always compensate by shortening the sheath -- up to a point.
4: make a new "ball" for the cable. I've made them by chucking a brass screw in a drill and filing them to size, but these days prefer to use a lathe. Cross drill slightly larger than the cable, and install the new ball on the shortened cable. Using an awl or small screwdriver, flare out the wires in the cable so the ball end doesn't fall off. You could also put a couple tiny little "L" bends on the wires to capture the ball. If you do this, you'll have to clean up excess cable at the end of the process.
5: here's the key technology: a solder pot. I use a 1/2" cap, a standard copper plumbing fitting. First I put a dollop of flux inside the cap, and hit it with a propane torch, then melt solder into the cap until it's about 1/2~3/4 full. This is several feet of solder. When you re-use the solder pot, wipe off the old flux (it will congeal on top) and replenish it with new flux before heating.
6: apply flux to the cable, and to the ball. Heat your solder pot with a torch until the solder is completely melted. Remove the flame from the solder pot and insert the ball/cable assembly into the solder pot and keep it there. The flux will melt, and the ball & cable will come up to soldering temperature. Remove the cable from the solder pot only when you see shiny solder wick upward in the cable. It may require a little extra heat from the torch ONLY on the solder pot - don't burn the sheath. Quickly clean the flux off the cable and ball with carb cleaner -- this also has the effect of cooling the cable so it doesn't melt the teflon liner. If you have excess cable sticking out the back of the ball, touch it up with the dremel.
It's beer o'clock!
On edit - I just saw your post in my own build thread that you're local -- you can bring the cables by and I'll help out.
The clutch, side stand switches won't kill power to the main fuse just the ignition circuit so your problem is before that.not sure on tip over though.
As stated those ignition bolts are a bitch. I had some creative swear words on that project. Course they are designed to not get drilled out...once you either grind them off or drill them they are easy to back out with vise grips.
I'm not surprised that a bike that twisted can be fixed - but doing it for less than the price of a used frame is impressive.
I didn't even consider the finances. What impressed me was the ease, optimism, and honesty with which Gerry looked at the wreck and said he could fix it.
Yah, I'm going to take you up on that offer. I've heard that you can build your own cables, but I've never done it or seen it done. I would do it just for the experience. Let me know what your preferred beverage and moto work area is and I'll see you there.
Short answer: If you have to ask, you are not riding the right roads. More accurately, you are not riding any roads with the correct perspective.
Longer answer: There is a mistaken belief prevalent on this website that dirt has to be involved to have an adventure and that GPS routes, imported CNC-machined master cylinder guards, and extensive debates over tire compounds and oil viscosities are necessary to prepare for an adventure.
I'm building a bike that will see road and tarmac 99% of the time. I admit that. I know it. The fact that this is a road bike has nothing to do with the level of 'adventure' which it will provide the platform for. Riding to work on potholed streets in an urban environment is an adventure, daily. Riding through rural areas with a tent and pocket stove bungied to the seat is also an adventure. And if I find gravel, I will ride gravel. And if I find dirt, I will ride dirt. And if I find you, your wife, or your gorgeous daughter, I will politely wave hello and and continue riding on whatever surface I have come across.
The bike never has been, never is, and never will be the limiting factor in my, your, or anyone else's ability to have an adventure.
From "Song of the Sausage Creature" by Hunter S. Thompson
"Pure speed in sixth gear on a 5,000-foot straightaway is one thing, but pure speed in third gear on a gravel-strewn downhill ess turn is quite another.</pre>
These are excellent leads. I didn't know there were two grounds, the only one I have come across and saw in the manual was on the engine case. I'll hunt down the frame ground later (hints appreciated).
Located the frame ground (no help from kawasaki manual on that one). Intact, connected.
I borrowed a multimeter and went at the bike in a rather simian fashion. I readily admit I'm not sure what I was doing, but I did get results. Multimeter set to Ohms (Omega sign) resistance (I think). Battery leads hooked up directly to a tender.
There was power at the ECU fuse, the main fuse, the ignition, and both grounds. There was no sign of life at the dash, or the starter. What next oh electircal lords?
The ride is what you make it. Often the most adventurous part of the ride is that space between your ears.
Sometimes when you are more than a few miles from home, the bike and it's capabilities become an important factor in deciding what type of surface to ride, understanding that you are building a street bike certainly helps that.
My wife Paula on her first bike next to the Indian River Lagoon.
Wrong setting on the multimeter. What you checked was resistance (continuity), what you want to check for is voltage. You should definitely not "have power" at the grounds, that's supposed to be the reference point for the 12 volt system.
Switch your meter to DC voltage (should be a V with a straight line, not a wavy line). Clip the black lead to your ground and then move through the system with the red lead to see where you lose voltage. Start at the battery, check the fuses and relays that you already identified...
Where in the Bay Area are you?
I have a bit of free time and a multimeter. I could possibly lend a hand.
Thank the lord, thank the lord.
Actually, I don't drink anymore, and trying to not be a fat middle-aged bastard, so pretty much all I drink these days is water and V8 juice. Maybe we can go eat a burrito after.
We should do it at my crib. I'm stacked crazy with work for about another week. We can make plans then.
Burritos def want stay with you long enough to make you fat.
I small impediment but one that was certainly annoying. Luckily it was easy to know off the to-do-list, right after "get bike running."
1 - ninja 636 top triple clamp and ignition
1- ninja 650 top triple clamp and ignition
1- drill bit
1 - drill
Drill out the heads of the bolts, pop ignitions off, voila. The only discrepancy is that you have to pop off the plastic cover on the ninja ignition so that it can fit in the ignition hole of the 636 top triple. If you really need the cover to tell you when your bike is on or off, you probably shouldn't be riding. And if you do, a sharpie is an easy solution.
How to win friends and influence people........
I ride my Vmax to work (well, I do when the bloody gearbox isn't in bits to fix 2nd.......again........dammit), some of which involves crossing a mossy, slippery causeway over a creek, and enough corrugated red dirt (if I'm REALLY lucky, it has slippery red clay on top of that) to shake my rear guard frame to bits.......literally!
The old Kaboom SM did it easy, an amazing capable bike that one........everything the Vmax is not!
You really have to ride one to remember just how truly terrifying they can be, and that's just trying to stop the thing at your first sign, let alone a corner.
This old '80s tank is twice the fun at half the speed, if you can call forgetting to breathe coz you can't ride for shit on gravel fun. Now I just blame the bike, everyone believes me, it's all good.