Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by jake28, Oct 25, 2011.
Subscribed! Watching and taking notes, these bikes just seem to be a great platform. I love what jdrocks has done with his (makes me want to put knobbies on the wife's SV), but I can't wait to see your street fighter version ready for adventure!
...oh, and keep up the good writing!
I learned something, I didn't know there was a Ninja 636. So, what years were the 650, and where does one generally find the crashed ones?
I have a Triumph for sale now.
The ninja 636 was issued for a couple years (02-06) when Kawasaki wasn't overly concerned about homoligation issues. They offered the Ninja 636RR which in fact was a 600 for racing purposes. In '07 they stopped the shenanigans and only offered one model.
As for crashed 650s in your neighborhood, there are a couple resources in the first link, a wealth of knowledge on this site, and the place I have found a couple is here.
Try looking here KAWASAKI NINJA 650R
Two of my favorite CL searches are "salvage" and "parting". Nets you all manner of interesting stuff.
"Project" is another good one.
I just recently acquired a 636 to ride while i was tearing down and working on a project on my 990 adv. Never rode a street bike before this one, at first it was awkward but the bike has grown on me and i have decided to keep it. It's a great city bike and i am looking forward to tearing into it since some issues need to be addressed on it. Really enjoying your project and narrative...looking forward to seeing the end result.
Gotta love these projects where a crashed bike gets a second life. Keep up the good work!
After double and triple checking that the fuses were intact, the wiring healthy, and everything clean and plugged in, I was left scratching my head, wondering why the 650 showed no signs of life.
After my failed attempts to poke and prod with a multimeter set on every setting except for the one I needed, I called in a ringer and had a friend/mechanic/shop-owner/general-all-around-good-guy (I highly recommend finding a few in your area) come over to inspect el projecto.
Pat checked the fuses and nodded. He coughed when he put the voltmeter on original battery and shook his head. He laughed when he checked the battery out of another bike that he had been using. Then Pat grabbed a set of jumper cables off my work bench and told me to hook them up to my truck.
With four terminals connected, the bike groaned and blinkers lit up. A tap on the start switch and it turned over.
"The battery you were using was reading 25 volts, it was cooked."
Ah. Great. Now to reattach everything, add some dialectic grease to the wiring, dust off a few dirty parts, and bolt on a few extremities (namely the tank and headlight) and get it running.
Still needed: does anyone (cough jdrocks cough) want to part with a stock coolant overflow tank? Also, I need a 636 top triple clamp steering stem nut and washer. Also, a 636 front axle tool. Also, a chain. Also, some front blinkers.
stock coolant tank, not perfect, for postage money.
The last installment had the bike breathing and twitching with the help of a new battery. Confident that there is the potential for my Ninja to move under its own power in the near future, I started fiddling with little things and putting parts back on.
Tail section back on, battery installed and wire routing cleaned up, dash back together (but needs some epoxy), dash bracket straightened, replaced the steering neck dust seal, straightened the shifter, played with the peg brackets (but still need pegs) and plotted out how to clean up the wiring and tuck it into the frame.
After spending so much time undressing this, it is a nice change to be putting things back on and seeing what can be left off. The kawi makes a fantastic platform for any sort of custom because the essentials are packed in tight but there is a lot of room to reroute wires between the motor and the steering stem and lots of crannies to store pieces in the tail section.
The latest dilemma: the CARB kit. Not that I would ever consider it, but if I hypothetically wanted to remove the rats nest of broken plastic pieces and hoses that resemble a CA-compliant charcoal canister and evaporation system, what would I, hypothetically of course, need to plug, route, and leave alone?
Besides that winter is coming so it may be rainy, but it is still riding season.
Also, anybody have a set of stock footpegs and a stock fender they want to get rid of? I have a nice ZX6 rear wheel with a 180 tire to trade. or Paypal.
Looking forward to the progression of this :)
Would love to see it when I get back to the bay.
Got a new tank courtesy of a fellow advrider and new gas cap in the mail.
Deal with CARB emissions crap
Get steering stem nut
Get R hand control assembly
Awesome!Just don't forget to plug the vacuum ports when you remove the emissions system.It will cause and FI bike to act like a pissed off bronco.
Jake, sent you a pm on the parts you are looking for.
Great project. Did the frame turn out to be straight or did you have to tweak it. I'm trying to decide how scared I am of damage to these bike in case of a crash.
I spilled gas all over the garage. I tried to empty the old tank into a small jug using a funnel and pretty much dumped 3 gallons of gas onto the floor. The second time I succeeded. And I smartened up and got a second set of (gloved) hands to assist.
New tank on, all well. Most of the carb stuff is dealt with except for some rumored crossover tubes that I need to cap off but cannot find. I'm following this for instructions if anyone wants to weigh in.
New chain on, greased, and happy.
Now I just need a set of foot pegs, some electrical connections and a 636 triple stem bolt and I'll be riding.
@Ben2go: any emissions wisdom you care to share would be appreciated.
@ktmklx: thanks and responded
@ fat pussy: I brought the bike up to my frame guy and he said he was going to have to strip it to look at it thoroughly. I have more time than money so I brought it home and started taking it apart. Then I started putting it together. In essence, I am confident in the bike because there was no marked damage around the headstock and the few dents in the side tubes are cosmetic rather than structural.
It is a tubular steel frame. Yes they bend, but they are easy to bend back, easy to weld on, and there is plenty of room to adjust, tweak, and gusset if needed.
And if all else fails, new frames are cheap on ebay.
Emissions are different on some bikes depending on the state they are shipped to.Cali bikes tend to get all the emission stuff hung on them.JDRocks on here is way more familiar with this specific bike than I am.I only have a general knowledge of the emissions equipment that come on the Kawi bikes.I would ask on a Kawi spec forum and see how removing emissions equipment will affect the engines ecu aka engine control unit.Some bikes notice no difference, while some have performance and/or running issues.A good shop can usually retune the ecu for changes in systems.I will say that most emissions on a motorcycle is simply to recover fuel vapors from the fuel tank and keep them from escaping into the atmosphere.This stuff can usually be eliminated, and the vacuum ports to the throttle bodies capped off with vacuum caps found at local auto parts stores.Provisions still need to be made to allow the fuel tank to vent, so that vacuum from the fuel pump, sucking fuel down, doesn't air lock the tank causing the engine to stall.Another issue with venting is heat.No venting will cause the tank to swell with pressure, as the fuel heats up, and blow the cap seal or fuel lines.The vent line for the tank is already there.It can be plumbed back into the airbox to eliminate dirt getting pulled into the tank during the inhale/exhale period, when the tank heats up or cools off.I hope this helps.Contact JDRocks and he can give more specific advise than I can.
I just read the link you posted.
I am quoting this from the link.
Connect a fuel line from the fitting with the blue dot and connect it to a barb fitting on the air box.Make sure that the barb fitting is installed on the filtered, or throttle body side, of the air box.I'm not sure what size line your bike uses but it looks like 1/4 inch inside diameter.Being that the airbox is plastic,it shouldn't take much to drill a hole for the barb fitting.You will be venting your tank fumes back into the airbox and stopping dirt from getting back into the tank, when there's a vacuum in the tank.
This is what a barbed fitting looks like that you will need.
I know this is a pic of a 250.Your should be like it but the lines attach to the tank in a different location(s).You should have two emissions lines going into the tank and a third line that drains fuel and water out of the fuel cap recess.Find the one that drains the fuel cap recess and run a line from it down under the bike.You don't want fuel running down it and dripping on a hot engine,if you splash some into the recess.On the emissions lines,looking at the emissions diagram,it looks like the vent will be line #4 on the diagram and the other gets capped off.I am making a guess based on how I think the vapors flow through the system,so I could be wrong.I also see a line,line #1, connected to the velocity stack base.You could check and see if the vent line will connect there,instead of using a barbed fitting in the air box.You can check the emissions lines running into the tank by trying to suck and blow through the line.The correct line will allow air to pass in both directions.If they both allow air to bass in both directions,then I don't think it matters which line you use for the vent.