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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by VascoMerlin, Aug 24, 2006.
Sometimes it takes some finagling, but no, they did not...
Very nice, looking forward to a report from the road after you are able to get a few miles in.
How do the other drivers and riders like your new headlight?
Ride report for 606 rear and Pirelli scorpion rally front tire.
I just came back from a little camping trip in the Sierras. I probably have 60lbs of kit on the back of the bike. I have a Cogent shock and race tech emulators with sonic springs in the forks. I loved Michelins T63’s with this setup.
I put these on the morning of my trip and immediately felt as if the frame was broken. Coming to a stop was terrifying as the bike swerved around like the forks were made of rubber bands.
I struggled along hoping it would get better as the release coating wore off. Nope.
I kept going, maybe theyll break in. 150 miles later i turned into my friends gravel driveway a frazeled mess. From the way the bike handled i wanted to stop as soon as i hit the gravel but stopping was scarier than riding so i let it coast to a stop when i got to his house.
From the way the bike handled i could tell the front end wanted more weight. I think the scorpion would be best ridden while sitting on the front fender.
I dropped the pressure from 30-25 lbs and put a turn of preload into the shock before i left. The next 30 miles to the forest road were better but still not good.
As soon as i hit dirt i dropped pressure to 20 front 22 rear. That made it controlable but not confidence inspiring. The bike wanted to follow every little nook and crack. Rocks and ruts were sending me all over the road. This is standard sierra dry dirt with a smattering of rocks in every shape and size up to a softball covering the surface. These rocks are particulularly fond of gathering in the bottom of the ruts to add fun to your ride.
The next bit of pavement i hit the steering was noticably heavier. Like strong steering damper heavy. Earlier that day the bars would move with the slightest ease like the bike was being suspended above the road.
The next day i dropped the pressure to 18psi in the front and put two more turns of preload in the shock with 4 added clicks of compression damping. Ok. Now were getting somewhere. The front end still wasnt planted but at least it wasnt terrifying any longer. Which was a good thing because the tracks i chose from the internet for the day were apparently laid by someone on a ... mule? Foot? Maybe a trials bike? That being said, it sucked and it was really really hard, but the tires bit into the rock gardens, roots, silt, dry creek beds and giant gravel ponds and never gave up traction. They wouldnt hold a line but they held the ground.
On the way home i aired up to 28psi and hit the freeway. Totaly rideable. Not as good as the T63’s but rideable. I guess they broke in.
I took one last excursion into some soft dirt at 28psi and no, they dont like that much pressure.
Anyway. Just thought id share.
If you have a klr and you want these tires run the lowest pressure youre comfortable with, pack something heavy as far forward as possible and break them in on the road for a few hundred miles first.
Put his in the other KLR thread but thought it worked here also.
Back ground: rode a pretty much stock 2006 KLR650 for several years and 20k miles. Sold it last June and bought a 2017 the same day.
Simple mods for the first 4000 miles:
- manual petcock to avoid the vacuum issues...and I'm old school
- mirrors from Amazon so I don't look at my elbows
- Seat Concepts low seat
- Sport Touring wind screen from Zero Gravity
- Shad 33 top case
Then it was time to get serious, at 4000 miles:
- did the Doo with Eagle Mike kit...the OEM spring had very little tension
- Added a Leo Vince X3 exhaust, makes it sound like a motorcycle now (must do mod)
KLX needle, drilled slide, and set everything to Eagle Mikes recommendation (must do mod)
got rid of the AIS (Air Induction System) and used an Eagle Mike block off plate at the head. (must do mod)
Got rid of the emissions can and all hoses. Capped off where needed.
Drilled 4 x 1" holes in air box, not certain it gained a ton with this mod but it does change the sound.
So, I'm at 4700 miles now and am loving this bike so much more than my 2006. If anyone is hesitant to do the KLX needle, exhaust, and AIS removal, fear not and do it. Bike responds so much better. If detailed info is needed on this mods let me know and I can link you up.
I'm not familiar with the AIS and EM block off plate, care to inform?
AIS is the Air Induction System placed onto Gen II KLR's. It introduces air into the top of the cylinder upon deceleration to help burn fuel. It operates off a vacuum line to the carb. If you let your bike breath like I did (Uni, Leo Vince, and carb work) you will get back fires, it is emission crap. So, you remove the system. Here is a pick of the AIS. Eagle Mike sells the block off plate to plug the hole in the top of the head by the plug...
I see you have a 2007 so this info is for others. Thanks for asking.
and here is the emissions crap
That could be the explanation for the backfires on my 2014.5 last year.
Haven't had any issues here around home so far. My son did get high beamed a few times when he still had the bike over in PA last year, but I think I got the angle pretty spot on when making the brackets to hold it in place.
An easy test is to park it next to your car at night and run the headlights while observing them form down the road a bit.
I mentioned it because I almost hit a pedestrian in a crosswalk last week that was on the far side of a car who was blinding me with their highbeams.
Hey guys, I'm rebuilding a 2009 klr that had it's transmission lock up. Is there a 6 speed I can retro fit for this bike? What engine kits and mods should be done to make it reliable while I'm in there?
The bike is all stock and used for gravel road cruising.
I'm running a Rekluse and have come to the conclusion that a left hand rear brake would sure make backing down from a failed hill climb much easier. Any suggestions for a cheap solution?
I replied in the KLR only thread, but you can use the clutch master cylinder from a vstrom 1000 and a longer braided hose custom made by your local hydraulic supply house, and zip-tie it down real good to keep it safe. Should be doable for under $100.
I've found the 705cc kits to get barrel shaped after about 10,000mi on two builds. I notice the bike going down on power, and then leak down tests show blow by.
Of course I used to push my bike hard, fully loaded across country 20,000+ miles a year.
At this point I plan stay 685 or maybe even stock bore, for my ride down to South America.
Jim are U in Boise area?
No sir... In NEPA right now.
I should add that I was using the Cryogenic sleeves in both those builds.
I would love to meet up sometime when U are back out this way, and would love to see your girl, Desi.