So, my buddy has my old KLR. 92, about 22k miles. New battery. Removed the side stand and clutch lock-outs long, long ago. Petcock changed over to Raptor type long ago. He drove the bike to work today....started/ran fine. Came out to work 8 hrs later. It cranks great but no start. Choke on, Choke off. WO throttle....nothing. Not even a hint of firing. Kill switch in run. Lights come on, horn/turn signals/brake lights work. Good fuel flow out the carb drain. Bike cranks great but not even a hint of trying to start. We left the bike in the parking lot. What do I need to check in the am??? I'm guessing spark 1st. Are any particular fuses going to cause a non-start issue??? Let me know what you think as I'm out of ideas. Oh, BTW....We were leaving on a ride up the coast in the am.....
diagram... http://www.buttonhome.org/gallery2/...PopularAlbum&g2_albumId=16235&g2_itemId=25297 if it turns it should start... all the interlocks that kill ignition also kill the starter maybe check the Bk/W wire that comes from the CDI & magneto.... it goes to the key switch and kill switch. if it goes to ground it turns the bike off. in fact, check the wires real close by the countershaft. sometimes they get rubbed. any other symptoms leading up to this? spark or no?
Thanks for the info. Spark status unknown. Will be checking that this am. We did just change the chain and sprockets though the wires down there looked fine. Will re-check them. We also moved the R switch/throttle cluster about an inch (and then back) while adding Barkbusters. I realize these are potential smoking guns but can't get my head around the fact it started/ran fine after we did the work. Kill switch does sound suspicious. What's the best way to trouble shoot this? Thanks for your help!
+ 1. Ignition circuitry is totally separate from charging circuitry on Generation 1s (pre-2008). Check for spark. RED and BLACK/WHITE wires from magneto to CDI carry AC for ignition power; grounding BLACK/WHITE wire is kill mechanism for both ignition switch and engine stop switch. Two wires from the pickup coil near the rotor/flywheel (their colors change along their route) must reach the CDI unit to trigger the spark. With all connections sound (including spark plug wire), you'll need an operational alternator exciter coil assembly, CDI unit (resistance matrix in service manuals), pickup coil, ignition coil and spark plug to run the engine.
In STOP position, BLACK/WHITE is grounded; in RUN position, ground is lifted (ignition switch must be in ON position for this test). BLACK/WHITE is grounded also when ignition switch is in OFF position.
Check for spark first. Check for fuel to the cylinder. Check for compression. All three can be checked after the plug is removed. That's the three things you need for it to run, (and they have to be timed right of course). Find which one you are missing before you look for the cause, it cuts the looking part to one third the time then.
Will be doing that in about 1 hr. Was just trying to back track as to what has been recently changed. My confusion, as noted, is the running fine, then not. Cranks fine. All lights, etc., working. Points to spark. Gas smell from pipe last night while cranking, good fuel flow to carb. Will be pulling the tank, checking the plug/spark. If none, suspect something in the kill switch though (as usual) I could be completely full of poo.... Valves were done less than 5k ago and bike was running/starting fine. Will update when we get her pulled apart. Unfortunately, my shop manuals are all up at the Orygun place and I'm down in California.... Thoughts- CDI sudden death??
I just read a ride report where a guy on a KLR had some wires rub through behind the instrument panel. If you don't have spark it might be worth looking back there.
Bike won't turn over at all if this is a problem. Kill switch not the issue. Now wondering about coil vs CDI. Looking up testing procedures though, as I understand it, the only way to check the CDI is put another one in.
All wires behind the instrument panel intact. Pulled everything apart, contact cleaner, then dielectric grease and re-attached... Still no spark when cranking.
If it's cranking over, I wouldn't think electrical short. I had the short behind the dash deal, in my case it tripped the main fuse causing "All dead". Of course, could be a different wire shorting. Hoping it's the plug, that's the easy fix (Short of putting gas in tank). Try KLR650.NET for more betterer help. Good luck DaFoole.
My 05 did this last July, was running down the highway and just stopped. Turned out to be the CDI, even though my old unit passed the resistance matrix.
A resistance matrix for the CDI terminals is in service manuals. You can measure the resistance between terminals with an ohm-meter, comparing the values measured with the resistances published. Still, nothing wrong with substituting an operational CDI for diagnostic purpose.
the test values in the Gen I factory manual were made with an analog meter. a digital will get way different numbers on any part of the circuit that has a solid state device. it has to do with the fact that the voltage drop across a p/n junction is constant and the different meters use different voltages to read ohms (short explanation). they both still read coils & straight resistance the same though.... just not diodes & transistors I cured a few by cleaning connectors. other than that.... check by the countershaft for wire damage. then check the CDI wiring.... these colors are on the CDI side of the plug... some change color on the other side. in order to run: the BK/W can not go to ground the BK must go to ground (becomes Bk/Y) and the Red/Bk must go to ground (it is/used to be the safety interlocks) also check the magneto...the red wire should make Volts AC to feed the CDI when you crank the engine the pickup coil should also make VAC when you crank there are ohm readings for these coils.... any meter will work
New plug, no joy... Service manuals up in Oregon.... The good news....it ain't my bike........ Manual is on order...until then, I'm gonna be plonking along with this thing....which is now ensconced in our garage..... Our owner is looking at a significant if not total ignition system replacement as it IS a 23 year old bike...so, I say...why not?!?!? Checking lots of numbers/contacts but still need a service manual for a more sytematic approach and eval. The up side is we have been cleaning and greasing pretty much all the electrical contacts. Have not yet seen any possible areas of grounding, wire breakage.....
Please check your PMs. CDI terminals resistance matrix (note polarity of ohm-meter probes) and ignition wiring diagram transmitted.
Not true. The side stand switch is designed to kill the motor when the side stand is down, the bike is in gear and the clutch is let out.
