KLR250 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Bad Company, May 10, 2008.

  1. 1994klr250

    1994klr250 Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Southeast michigan
    Did you remove the engine yourself? If so you probably have a decent mechanical mindset to do a rebuild. A quote of $1,000 by a shop before they have even taken the engine apart to see what is broken is a bit perplexing to me. Then again, I do all my own wrenching so maybe I'm out of touch of the cost of labor now a days. The bottom end of the klr 250 is actually quite stout, everything rides on caged ball bearings and there should be no reason to have to split the cases. I bought a used klr 250 bottom end on eBay several years ago that dropped a valve and put a hole thru the piston filling the crankcase with metal. I split the cases flushed the metal out and rebuilt it as one of my spare engines. So even with severe damage to the top end, the bottom end should be fine minus some cleaning of debris. Here's a short video clip I made when I had the spare engine cases apart.



    As you can see there's not much in the bottom half of the crank case. Two counter balance shafts, the crankshaft, input and output transmission shafts, along with the associated shift forks and shift drum. There's only a few special tools needed to do the rebuild, a flywheel puller, torque wrench and feeler gauges. The rest are common hand tools, wrenches and sockets. I source most of my klr 250 parts on eBay since the prices are cheaper than going OEM at a dealer and most of these parts are low mileage compared to my bike with over 75,000 miles. Heck if you lived near me I'd offer to help you rebuild yours.

    cc.jpg
  2. SpaceApePaulus

    SpaceApePaulus Adventurer

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    Oddometer:
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    Sheboygan, Wisconsin
    I did remove the engine myself. I can take apart, replace parts, and put something back together again. I've messed around with my 2 stroke Blaster over the past couple years. It's just like adult Legos.
    The damage you described is more extensive than what I'm dealing with. The bike title I have says it's a 2003 with unknown miles.
    In my limited experience, the area I have trouble with is the combustion mixture. That trouble was with a POS chinese pit bike though.

    One of the guys who works at my buddy's shop says he would be able to bore the motor for me if there's any damage.
    The picture you provided reassures me. I'm probably being naive in my inexperience but it looks really simple.

    Thank you again, you helped me make the decision to do this job myself.
    I guess my next step is to retrieve the motor on Tuesday after the holiday, and to then fully dismantle the top end and have a look at it.

    I need shop manual as well. I've been tossing away all the nuts and bolts because they are all random hardware store pieces that require 3 different socket sizes just to remove 1 fender.
  3. 1994klr250

    1994klr250 Long timer

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    Location:
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  4. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    Get a bolt kit. Think tusk off RMATV has one that fits most of the bolts.
    The bore is precision work. Don’t let your shop buddy try to do it with a hone. You can do the the top end, may need a torque wrench. I would send the cylinder out for boring if it turns out it is needed.
    SpaceApePaulus likes this.
  5. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer Supporter

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    What's wrong with the transmission, SpaceApePaulus? Just wonderin'!

    A shop might quote a "high-ball" (or, "worst case") estimate, just to see if the customer is serious; then, charge for only whatever parts and labor are required.

    For DIY, don't forget: You'll need both a Kawasaki KLR600 shop manual and a Kawasaki KLR250 supplement; or . . . wing it with a Clymer pre-2008 KLR650 manual. For the detail of repair you're considering, I'd think the Kawasaki publications more appropriate.
    SpaceApePaulus likes this.
  6. SpaceApePaulus

    SpaceApePaulus Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 17, 2020
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Sheboygan, Wisconsin
    Thanks for the tip about the bolt kit, that's crucial for my rebuild.
    Boring/honing isn't a high cost, I'll let somebody with experience handle that part.
    Torque wrenches are readily available, luckily. Previously I would hand tighten all screws/bolts and I'm sure they were all over-torqued. Seemingly I've never had an issue as a result, I'll consider myself lucky.

    Hey, thanks for asking. The more interest the better, 'cuz I'm gonna be needing some help here soon LOL.
    To answer your question: I don't know, and possibly nothing.
    My concern stemmed from: In my limited 3 days of riding the machine, about 2/3 of the time riding it, I would hear a noise that reminded me of metal scraping. Sort of like what a warped rotor sounds like. "schlicking" or "schucking" is the best way I can describe it. It did not seem to effect the performance of the transmission. To the best of my knowledge, everything felt like it was behaving proper. The noise was just embarrassing, and obviously not supposed to be there. The noise was only present when I had gears engaged, and not while rolling freely in neutral.
    I'm going to split the case, clean it out, and replace any worn down parts.

    I'm going to call Millennium Technologies on Tuesday and explain my circumstances to them. They are very good at what they do, and charge the appropriate prices. However, if I was able to afford their services, I probably wouldn't have purchased a $500 motorcycle to begin with(though I've fallen in love by now and feel like I got a great deal on it). I'll still let them bore/hone it for me most likely, unless they charge $100+. I've read plenty of good testimony of people paying $20-40 for quality work.

    Thank you for the manual recommendation. The community here is great and have already supplied me with those.

    EDIT: Just purchased the TUSK 156 piece Kawasaki Kit from RMATV. Total cost with shipping and tax: $40. Price seems fair regardless, and I have peace of mind buying from them over whatever junk metal goes into eBay bolt kits from China.
  7. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    Oddometer:
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    708F65C3-0509-4D5D-BBD6-057DFC20D711.jpeg

    Ready to dirt road. First ride on this all year
  8. nails1

    nails1 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    330
    Location:
    New Mexico
    Sweet! (Should piss off the bees.) Please run down a quick list of upgrades -- I see a few. And I think you messed with the seat?
    SpaceApePaulus likes this.
  9. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2014
    Oddometer:
    3,964
    High bars,
    bark busters,
    IMS tank,
    seat concepts seat,
    KLX front end race tech valved,
    HID light,
    drilled the carb changed the needle,
    big gun full exhaust
    Cogent rear shock
    DR650 foot pegs
    Ricochet skid plate
    Air horn

    oh and GF hung a very small set of blue truck balls off the tool bag zipper

    gorilla tapped blinker


    Anyone have a link to functional front blinker bright and low profile?

    exept for the front wheel being way out of balance do to rim lock and the exhaust be loud this bike is very comfortable and I really like leaning hard on it.
  10. SpaceApePaulus

    SpaceApePaulus Adventurer

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    May 17, 2020
    Oddometer:
    18
    Location:
    Sheboygan, Wisconsin
    Wow that's a pretty extensive list!
    Are the IMS tanks the only aftermarket ones? I'm not finding others. My OEM has a massive dent that can't be fixed. I'm not looking for an oversized tank. eBay OEM tanks without dents are about $500
    HID lighting is something I'm looking forward to doing, some of you guys have really nice looking examples.
    How do you like the rear shock? Mine currently bottoms out, rolling over dirt jumps, don't think the tire is even leaving the ground lol. That has to be too soft. Not sure I could pony up for the one Cogent currently has on their website, but maybe in the future.
    Skid plate looks serious! love it.
  11. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    You can fit a first gen klr650 shock. The 250 shock is like a fake shock that never worked.
  12. rossoe

    rossoe Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 29, 2020
    Oddometer:
    11
    Location:
    UK
    Hi

    Just started fixing up my first KLR250 which I picked up few months ago.
    upload_2020-5-30_3-50-33.png

    And I noticed what I assume is a missing water temp sensor - at least that's what think goes in the below spot?

    sensor.JPG

    So I went and ordered a cheaper one from ebay as Kawasaki one is $40!
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLUG-Water-Sensor-for-Kawasaki-KLR250-KL250-1987-2005-KLR650-KL650-1987-2018/302938078468?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

    But I noticed the hole in my engine does not appear to have any thread at all?

    close2.jpg

    Am I looking at the right sensor for that hole? and I assume there should be a clear thread on the top of that hole?

    Original part is -

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for any help

    Attached Files:

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  13. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    5,243
    A plastic tank for a KLR250 doesn't hold much more fuel than the OEM steel version. I think Clarke made one; don't know if the product remains in production. https://clarkemfg.com/ You might contact them; see if you can score some, "Old, New Stock" inventory!

    These guys might know if any plastic fuel tanks exist in current production for KLR250s:

    https://www.justgastanks.com/
  14. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    Mine is an IMS 3.2 gallon. The only reason I have it is because my dumb ass lost the original.
  15. SpaceApePaulus

    SpaceApePaulus Adventurer

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    May 17, 2020
    Oddometer:
    18
    Location:
    Sheboygan, Wisconsin
    Welcome, fellow noob!
    Hope you enjoy your KLR 250!
    Can I ask, do you know if your plastics are OEM? They look quite clean and in very good condition.
    greasyfatman likes this.
  16. rossoe

    rossoe Adventurer

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    May 29, 2020
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    UK
    I am loving the KLR250, can't wait to ride it, not even heard her run yet!

    Front fender looks to be a new/alternative - but the remainder of the panels are OEM.
    SpaceApePaulus likes this.
  17. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Nov 22, 2009
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    CT exile now in NH
    I used Armor All on my plastics and they looked great.
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  18. Mogy

    Mogy Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2018
    Oddometer:
    19
    Location:
    Edmonton
    2020-06-02_00.44.12.jpg
    Hi rossoe,
    You are correct. That is the position of the temp sensor. Could it be that the sensor has been broken off? That may explain why there is no thread.
  19. rossoe

    rossoe Adventurer

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    UK
    Hi Mogy,
    I did wonder about that as someone else mentioned the same thing, but looking at your picture it looks like the width of that brass surround is fairly thick, and comparing to my updated pic https://advrider.com/f/attachments/close2-jpg.2340945/ it does not seem like there would be enough space for the remainder of the part to be left in there!

    I guess if it is in there it might be posible to tap it out?

    I just poked a paperclip in the hole and it hits the bottom at 15mm, Is that typically an open hole to access water inside, or would it always be just a sealed well so that the sensor does not actually touch coolant water itself, but just get's close to it?
  20. Mogy

    Mogy Adventurer

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    Dec 19, 2018
    Oddometer:
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    Edmonton
    I don't know the answers to your questions. I am reluctant to try and remove that sensor. Apparently, they may break off. If you search on google there are a number of people that posted with the same problem. I haven't seen any that posted their solution.